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Routes in Third Flatiron
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1911 Gully T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Blazing Biners T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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College Drop Out aka East Face North Side T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Direct West Face a/k/a Western Skyline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Doctor Merkwurdigliebe T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dog's Head Cutoff T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R |
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East Face (Standard) T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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East Face Left T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Exit Through The Gift Shop V0 4 |
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Extra Point T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Fail Safe T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Falcon's Fracture T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Feathers and Stone S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Flailure (Is Not an Option) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Friday's Folly T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Friday's Folly Direct T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Funny Games T,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R |
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Greenman's Crack T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R |
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Holier than Thou S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Inner Sanctum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Misled Youth T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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More Mellow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Negative Space (P1) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Northwest Passage T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Panda Rigolo S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Panda Scat TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Pandammic S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Pentaprance T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Ph.D. Roof T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Pile In the Sky S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rite Of Spring T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Saturday's Folly T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sayonara T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Shoyu State S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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South Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Southwest Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Super Woo T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Thin Crack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Third Kingdom/Papillion T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Third World Zone T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R |
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Unnamed (formerly entered as Problem Child) T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Waiting For Columbus T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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West Door T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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West Face [3rd Flatrion] T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Winky Woo T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R |
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Wrongs of Fall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Trad |
| FA: | Unknown party ca 1911 |
| Page Views: | 6,248 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | George Bell on Nov 10, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Access Issue: Raptor nesting lifted July 26, 2023
Details
bouldercolorado.gov/service…: lifted 7/26/23: Third Flatiron, including Queen Anne’s Head, W.C Fields Pinnacle, 1911 Gully and the Ghetto, the East Bench & West Bench, the East & West Ironing Boards, The Fin, Green Thumb and Jaws.
Update from the Flatirons Climbing Council July 2021: due to late nesting of peregrine falcons this year (2021), this area is closed until ~Aug. 12, 2021.
Information on OSMP wildlife closures, which help to protect sensitive habitats, can be viewed at:
bouldercolorado.gov/service…
maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi…
The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July:
First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Flatiron
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
The Ghetto
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
The Fin
Green Thumb
Jaws
Updated details may be found here.
osmpwildlifeclosures.org.
Description
This "adventure route" is not recommended (unless you are looking for adventure). At least you will not have to wait in line. The best time of year to do this route is late fall or winter, when the poison ivy and ferns have been knocked down by frost. However, the middle section of the gully holds snow well, and an ice axe may be needed if it has snowed a lot recently. In fact, under the right conditions, this section of the route is an exciting ski descent just minutes from downtown Boulder.
This is the first major gully left of the main East Face of the 3rd Flatiron, it separates the main East Face from the pinnacle known as Queen Anne's Head. Approach as for East Face Left, and walk a few hundred feet south. The base of the gully is wide and slabby, and it's not obvious where to start. The easiest start is a crack system near the south side only 40' from Queen Anne's Head. Do a short pitch (or free solo) up this crack system, then unrope, and climb through a hole under a chockstone to emerge in the main gully.
Climb up the main gully, which is bushwhacking interspersed with V0 boulder problems. Soon you will enter the main gully, thrash up the ferns and ivy a few hundred feet to a slab making the start of the final chimney. Go home now unless you were planning on doing some rock climbing.
The upper chimney can be climbed in 2 long pitches with a 60m rope. The rock is reasonably clean and the climbing interesting, and this climb had almost built up to one star until we ran into a 15' streak of pigeon shit we had to climb past. The climb ends at the notch of the SE Chimney, and you can either continue with that route or downclimb it. There is also an eye bolt just north of the notch that you can rappel (west) from.
Per Jim VanO: the date May 14, '11 is engraved on a rock near the top of the chimney by Myron G. Snow with his wife Fanny G. McNaught. A photo of engraving is in the photos. Numerous Snow children and grandchildren report having seen it. I was unable to find it after 1 attempt.
Addendum: From J. Haas, "The name stems from a party finding "1911" engraved on a stone, similar to the slated stones in Indian Creek, at the top of the chimney. The engraved stone has been "missing" for several decades."
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