Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Alaska

Description

One word describes Alaska and that is "BIG!" This not only describes the state but the climbs that are in it. From the single-pitch climbs along the Seward Highway and trad climbing and bouldering in Hatcher Pass, to Denali, the tallest mountain in North America, Alaska has something to offer everyone from committing alpine mixed lines to 3000ft granite walls. One thing remains common in all of these areas, the climbing is wild, the approaches are often long and the best climbs are remote, and usually without cell coverage. On top of that, the season for climbing is short, and dedicated Alaskan climbers learn to embrace all disciplines from bouldering, to trad and bouldering to ice and alpine climbing. Even then when maximizing your opportunity  Weather in Alaska can change very quickly and temps can fluctuate 30 to 40 degrees in a day, especially in the mountains. Alaska receives warm weather currents from Japan as well as cold weather currents from the Arctic Circle. When the two collide it tends to get nasty, wet, and cold. 

Getting There

Most outsiders will choose to fly to Alaska. If you're coming for the Alaskan experience you'll need to rent a car. If you are climbing exclusively in the Alaska range there are shuttle services to Talkeetna, where most trips will launch. Touch base with your guiding service if you're using one, or touch base with your flight service if you're not and they can probably point you in the right direction. 

One can also drive the Alcan highway, which is an adventure itself, but this isn't an option unless you plan to stay for several months, or you're doing the drive for the drive itself. 

The Alaska Marine Highway system is also another option for the adventurous, but even more so than the Alcan, this is an adventure itself and it can be cost prohibitive, especially if you want to bring your car. 

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

This Peak is called the "Island".  Deep in the Chugach range.  We skied the shadowed wall to the left of the prominent spine.  45-50 degrees for 3000 vertical!
[Hide Photo] This Peak is called the "Island". Deep in the Chugach range. We skied the shadowed wall to the left of the prominent spine. 45-50 degrees for 3000 vertical!
Skiing big big big lines.
[Hide Photo] Skiing big big big lines.
I forget where this was...  Alaska, May 07.
[Hide Photo] I forget where this was... Alaska, May 07.
This is a ski run in the Chugach called "Hot Tubs & Beers".  It goes down the shadowed ramp down and left from the peak in the center of the photo.  45 degrees for 2500 vertical.
[Hide Photo] This is a ski run in the Chugach called "Hot Tubs & Beers". It goes down the shadowed ramp down and left from the peak in the center of the photo. 45 degrees for 2500 vertical.
Bill on the Brady Icefield, looking towards the Fairweather Mountain Range
[Hide Photo] Bill on the Brady Icefield, looking towards the Fairweather Mountain Range
Fall in the Alaska Range
[Hide Photo] Fall in the Alaska Range
Alaska, May 07.
[Hide Photo] Alaska, May 07.
Eklutna Glacier Traverse- Beautiful Arete Peak
[Hide Photo] Eklutna Glacier Traverse- Beautiful Arete Peak
One of many lighthouses throughout the inside passage of southeast Alaska.<br>
Photo by Josh Hibbard
[Hide Photo] One of many lighthouses throughout the inside passage of southeast Alaska. Photo by Josh Hibbard
A view of the cathedral peaks on a typical day in Southeast Alaska.<br>
Photo by Josh Hibbard
[Hide Photo] A view of the cathedral peaks on a typical day in Southeast Alaska. Photo by Josh Hibbard
Mini Iceberg- Copper River, Alaska
[Hide Photo] Mini Iceberg- Copper River, Alaska
Peaks and Glacier in the Chugach Range.
[Hide Photo] Peaks and Glacier in the Chugach Range.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Josh Hibbard
Los Angeles Area, CA
[Hide Comment] In addition to the above information on Alaska:
-You can also get there by boat. The Alaska Marine Highway leaves Seattle area (Bellingham) for most of the Southeast Alaska towns and up towards Anchorage. You can get a stateroom or pitch your tent on the solarium.
- Alaskans are very friendly and will give directions, as indicated in the above description. However, don't expect street names or street numbers. Be prepared for directions such as, "follow this here dirt road for about 5 minutes. Take a hard right after the large spruce tree. In about 4 minutes you will see a large black rock. Turn left here and heep going until..."
-Tourism is one of the main industries in Alaska. If you are looking for a true Alaskan experience, don't get caught up in the tourist traps. Where there are cruise ships, there are tourist traps. Mar 26, 2007
[Hide Comment] some good recourses

Database for rock routes and scrambles in Alaska as well as the Alaska Mountain Forum. One can also find out how to purchase the Alaska Rock Climbing Guide by Kelsey Gray here -- alaskamountainforum.com/wik…

Bouldering in Alaska -- akbouldering.com/

Huge and very good ice climbing database as well as a forum -- alaskaiceclimbing.com/ Oct 24, 2010
[Hide Comment] A thrown together video about a little climbing in Southeast AK:


youtube.com/watch?v=K7IrH6e… Oct 3, 2013
[Hide Comment] youtube.com/watch?v=yhBg_Uf…

Extreme endurance athlete & motivational speaker, Bill Bradley says, "Listen to the story of how I attempted to climb Mt. Denali for the second time and failed to make it to the summit.  Failing to accomplish something you've worked extremely hard for can be devastating, but I want to share with you the lessons I learned in my experience." Jun 8, 2016
Tom Campbell
Bishop, CA
[Hide Comment] Looking for a climbing partner for the West Buttress may/June 2017. Dates aren't set in stone yet, but planning on flying into anchorage around mid May. Anyone interested email ptcreptiles@aol.com. Aug 9, 2016
Nick Weicht
Valdez, AK
[Hide Comment] If your in Alaska during the winter and want to get your vertical fix don't forget to check out the Valdez Ice Fest. There is also the Matanuska Ice Fest in the fall for anyone wanting to climb on a glacier with a fun crew of good folks.


youtube.com/watch?v=b3fgx_1… Dec 18, 2016