All Locations > Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - S Buttress

Anthill Direct

Name: Anthill Direct
Rating: 3.3

5.9- YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 16 ZA HVS 4c British R

Routes in Redgarden - S Buttress

L › R R › L A › Z

	Variation to Lower Meadows T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Crack Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Redguard T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	I Can't Copeland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Semi-Wild T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
	Semi-Wild Slab T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Chromium Shore T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
	Anthill/Redguard Traverse T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
	Anthill Direct T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
	Blunt Buttress, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Left Side of Roark, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Book of Numbers T,S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Continue-us T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
	Exodus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Genesis T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Trinity Cracks T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
	Le Boomerang T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Lakme T 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a PG13
	Pansee Sauvage T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
	La Vie d' Pansey TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
	Desdichado T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
	C'est La Vie T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Je T'Aime T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
	C'est La Morte T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	C'est La Fin T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Flakes, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Whistle Stop, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Original Anthill T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	I Can't Copeland Free T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Archer McLenahan T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Vaporizer, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	PA's Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Horizontal Beginnings T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Cleopatra Says Happy Birthday to Anthony T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
	Pseudo Sidetrack, Direct Finish T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Pseudo Sidetrack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
	Slack Walk T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Pilgrim S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	High Noon T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	To Night T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
	Edge of Night, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
	Restless Nights T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
	Night T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
	Black Top S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Back in Black S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	A Breed Apart T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
	Walk the Talk T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
	Blackwalk T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
	Backtalk T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
	Backstroke T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R
	Dessert T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Shades of Gray T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Bulge, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	Bulge Indirect T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	Sticky Feet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Whittle Wall, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	Noggin T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Whittle Whisk T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Genuine Risk Takers T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
	Genuine Risk T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	East Side T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Balance of Terror T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	East Overhang TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
	Mental Cruelty TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

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Type:	Trad, 5 pitches, Grade II Fixed Hardware (9)
FA:	Layton Kor and Rick Tidrick, 1961
Page Views:	29,367 total · 100/month
Shared By:	Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2000 · Updates
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Rockfall Access Effect & Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Per Dustin Bergman, Eldorado Canyon State Park Officer: the upper third of the West Redgarden trail and Rewritten descent trail suffered significant damage during that storm that came through a few weeks ago. Please consider choosing alternates routes lower on the trail.

Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.

The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.

For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted Details

Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.

Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.

Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.

These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.

Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.

See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.

Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:

Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!

Description

This is an often-overlooked, long route with very good climbing. The run-out is only "5.6", though it feels a bit harder--the rest is well-protected.

P1. We started on Touch 'N' Go, which apparently is more common, as we had heard that the original first pitch was mediocre. [Edit: many commentators below are saying that it's worthwhile, as well as easier than Touch 'N' Go.]

P2. Surmount a small roof (5.8-) to get off the rotten band and off the belay ledge (or bypass the roof 15' up and left). Then follow a crack up and right to an obvious roof. Crank through the roof at 5.8 (great pro) and belay 10' higher. 130'. Per Doug Haller: the belay stance is in a pod with an old pin above head height. 130'. The start of P2 now has two rap anchors. The are out of sight from the top of Touch 'N' Go. From the top of Touch 'N' Go, walk/scramble toward the second pitch and down to locate the fixed anchors.

P3. Head up and left on pocketed rock in the vicinity of a black water streak. Pay attention to find the easiest climbing; this is the runout 5.6. Your second should be solid for this section. Belay on a small ledge beneath a roof, 100'.

P4. Climb around to the right (following a crack of varying width), passing several fixed pitons, and head for the arete. The turn back to the left, now heading for the bottom of the large roof. Belay just beneath the roof.

P5. From the belay, move right and up through the roof where it turns more into a dihedral. Several layback moves get you through it at 5.9- with great pro. Climb easy slabs to the top. Per Doug Haller: after the roof, follow the crack system for about 20 feet. Continue up slabs for about another 80-100 feet. Locate a horizontal crack and set up a belay there with several cams from size 0.5 to 2.

In either case, descend the vast 4th Class slab to the NE (per Doug Haller: you are ~2/3 of the way down the slab and just above the final steep scramble to the trail), aiming for a cairn on an outcrop. Go left below it into a 4th Class gully, and hike around to the trail from the bottom of it.