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Armed and Dangerous, and Off My Medication
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.5 from 1,025
votes
Routes in Armed and Dangerous (Main Cliff Left)
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[Redacted] T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Anchovy Caper, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Armed and Dangerous, and Off My Medication S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Arugula, Arugula S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Barbershop Duet T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Big Easy, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Boats from Cuba T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bonnie and Clyde S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bourbon Street S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Cereal Killer S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Climb and Punishment S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Cloud Atlas S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Clusterphobia S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Far From Feral S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Fish Corner S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b V1- 5- |
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Flying Squirrel S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Green Mile S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Greener Pastures S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Half Nelson 5.7/ Full Nelson 5.11b S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Juicy Fingers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Maltese Falcon, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Maria's Variation T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Men In White Suits S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mentally Disturbed S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mesresha S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Metamorphosis S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mitosis S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Panama Hat (aka Mister Meaner) S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Rainbow S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Scene of the Crime S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sesame Street S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Slack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Slick T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Toxic Gumbo S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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White Buttress, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Sport |
| FA: | tom bowker 1990, direct finish glen cilley 1994 |
| Page Views: | 31,114 total · 143/month |
| Shared By: | Lee Hansche on Mar 23, 2007 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
A Rumney classic that deserves a spot on every 5.10 climbers tick list. Most commonly referred to as just "Armed and Dangerous" minus the long-winded, second half of the name, it is the center piece of its crag and for good reason. Varied climbing from technical, slabby, face climbing to a super cool, steep, jug haul that can give some exposure for its relatively small size. If you pump out, fear not the falls are all air as you climb out the intimidating exit moves.
To the right of the start of Cereal Killer (5.11c, which climbs out of the cave at the cliff base) you will start up easier rock to a line of bolts on a slab surmounting a few bulges these moves, not the steeps at the top are the true crux of the route. At the top of the slab, take a rest and look up at the looming steepness. Move quickly through this part, as it can sap one's energy fast. After the steep stuff is over, good holds lead up and left to anchors.
Armed and Dangerous tends to dry quickly so most non-rainy days it is in good condition.
The very top of the climb has been changed to make room for another route to the right. This doesn't take away from the route's quality and its new neighbor is yet another fun 5.10.
To the right of the start of Cereal Killer (5.11c, which climbs out of the cave at the cliff base) you will start up easier rock to a line of bolts on a slab surmounting a few bulges these moves, not the steeps at the top are the true crux of the route. At the top of the slab, take a rest and look up at the looming steepness. Move quickly through this part, as it can sap one's energy fast. After the steep stuff is over, good holds lead up and left to anchors.
Armed and Dangerous tends to dry quickly so most non-rainy days it is in good condition.
The very top of the climb has been changed to make room for another route to the right. This doesn't take away from the route's quality and its new neighbor is yet another fun 5.10.
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