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Beacon Rock Rock Climbing
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| Elevation: | 720 ft | 219 m |
| GPS: |
45.6272, -122.02064 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 282,838 total · 1,224/month | |
| Shared By: | Peter Franzen on Jan 22, 2006 · Updates | |
| Admins: | Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
Access Issue: CLOSURES: South and East Faces (NW & W Faces Remain Open)
Details
The South Face and access trail is closed from Feb. 1st through July 15th, depending on peregrine falcon nesting. Portland Area Climbers Coalition, Washington Climbers Coalition, and the Access Fund are coordinating on this issue. Disregarding this closure will harm their efforts to adjust it and their relationship with land managers.
The east face is closed to climbing year-round due to possible sensitive/endangered plant species.
The NW face and West face routes remain open.
See Closure section below for more details.
The east face is closed to climbing year-round due to possible sensitive/endangered plant species.
The NW face and West face routes remain open.
See Closure section below for more details.
Description
Beacon Rock is a lone 850' basalt monolith that sits prominently in the Washington side of the spectacular Columbia Gorge. As such, it is an obvious destination for Portland climbers seeking adventurous and bold traditional climbing opportunities. Although much of the rock in the gorge is of poor quality, Beacon has plenty of solid and steep lines. A handful of boulders are tucked away in the woods below.
The descent off of Beacon Rock is one of the easiest anywhere. An elaborate stainless steel "trail" of platforms and staircases is bolted to the west side of the cliff which makes for an easy hike to the top for tourists, or an easy descent for climbers.
Routes are split into South face routes, and NW face routes, as per the break in the cliff (accessed via different trails), as well as following the breakdown in the NWOR guidebook.
The descent off of Beacon Rock is one of the easiest anywhere. An elaborate stainless steel "trail" of platforms and staircases is bolted to the west side of the cliff which makes for an easy hike to the top for tourists, or an easy descent for climbers.
Routes are split into South face routes, and NW face routes, as per the break in the cliff (accessed via different trails), as well as following the breakdown in the NWOR guidebook.
Closures
The South Face and access trail is closed from Feb. 1st - July 15th, but may be lifted early depending on when the falcons fledge or if the nest site fails. Please respect the closure. The hiking trail to the top of Beacon Rock is open year round.
The East Face is closed year round for the protection of potential threatened plant species. There are some established routes on the East Face but have been lost in time.
The Northwest Face is open year round after Washington State Park arborists successfully removed hazard trees in March 2020. Watch for poison oak.
The West Face is open year round. Wear helmets due to rock fall hazard and watch for poison oak. Access was restored to this area in 2018 with the update of the Climbing Management Plan. The west side contains new routes that can be accessed ground up. Use the climber trail on the NW/West side of the rock. Look for a faint trail that starts to the right side of the main hiker trail just past the "Weed Seed" station and small bridge. Follow the climber trail briefly through the forest and look for cairns as you enter the boulder field. An upper and lower trail cuts directly to the base of the new routes and some crude belay platforms have been constructed. Lower down on the west side, the route Labyrinth allows provides access to the Southwest Face (not part of the South Face closure) which includes routes like Hard Times, Rip City and Lay Lady Lay. Unfortunately, poison oak plagues these routes.
The 2017 updated Climbing Management Plan allows for adaptive, future management considerations of the South Face's seasonal raptor closure and East Face closure. Please respect all closures and restrictions and reach out to Access Fund, Washington Climbers Coalition, and Mazamas about how to partner and work with Washington State Parks on climbing management.
The East Face is closed year round for the protection of potential threatened plant species. There are some established routes on the East Face but have been lost in time.
The Northwest Face is open year round after Washington State Park arborists successfully removed hazard trees in March 2020. Watch for poison oak.
The West Face is open year round. Wear helmets due to rock fall hazard and watch for poison oak. Access was restored to this area in 2018 with the update of the Climbing Management Plan. The west side contains new routes that can be accessed ground up. Use the climber trail on the NW/West side of the rock. Look for a faint trail that starts to the right side of the main hiker trail just past the "Weed Seed" station and small bridge. Follow the climber trail briefly through the forest and look for cairns as you enter the boulder field. An upper and lower trail cuts directly to the base of the new routes and some crude belay platforms have been constructed. Lower down on the west side, the route Labyrinth allows provides access to the Southwest Face (not part of the South Face closure) which includes routes like Hard Times, Rip City and Lay Lady Lay. Unfortunately, poison oak plagues these routes.
The 2017 updated Climbing Management Plan allows for adaptive, future management considerations of the South Face's seasonal raptor closure and East Face closure. Please respect all closures and restrictions and reach out to Access Fund, Washington Climbers Coalition, and Mazamas about how to partner and work with Washington State Parks on climbing management.
Getting There
The easiest way to reach Beacon Rock is to take State Route 14 29 miles East from Vancouver, Washington. Alternatively, you can take I-84 East from Portland and cross The Bridge of the Gods (have some change handy, as itÂ’s a toll bridge), and then West on SR 14 to the park.
To get to the main routes, park at the east end of the main parking lot, and there is a Climber's Info board there. The trail a couple feet to the left of it. Follow it down to the south face.
To get to the main routes, park at the east end of the main parking lot, and there is a Climber's Info board there. The trail a couple feet to the left of it. Follow it down to the south face.
Classic Climbing Routes at Beacon Rock
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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