Beaver Creek State Forest Climbing

Beaver Creek is a large 3000+ acre state forest with amazing climbing opportunities. Large granite outcrops and several large escarpments make this one of the most enticing new climbing areas in Northern New York, outside of the Adirondacks. This area is very spread out, the access is a bit confusing, and some crags can be over a few miles away from each other. Generally, the area is a large upland plateau cut down the middle by the Beaver Creek, and its largest walls are located along the banks of this creek. There are two granite "mountains" located on this land, one being in the far southwest portion, and one in the far north east. These domes have some amazing climbing opportunities in a fabulous "high elevation" setting (for the area).

The climbing here is reminiscent of other Frontenac crags. The rock is high quality granite (Granitic Gneiss), albeit at times variable, and the cleanliness depends on sun exposure and facing angle. Much of the main corridor walls are exposed to part day sun, and many are above the trees, so they look relatively clean. Although much exploration needs to be done, this area may well host some of the first multi-pitch routes in the region (Besides some ascents at Payne Lake). What makes this area particularly unique is that there are cliffs spanning a length of nearly 9 MILES, on both sides of the creek!! Unfortunately the western side is mostly private, but that still leaves a nice 9 mile stretch of shoreline to explore! The cliffline is not continuous of course, but from recent recons, as well as google earth imagery, it looks to be consistently steep and big cliffs along the entire length of the creek side valley.

If you're looking for adventure lines and endless rock up to 200 feet, this is absolutely your ticket.