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Routes in Stronghold Dome
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Abril Bypass T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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And I Helped! T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Apache Tears T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Bee Face S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Bee Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Big Time T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Bounty, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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End Chimney, Left T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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End Chimneys, Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Greasy Gizzards T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Rheen's Arete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Rheen's Arete Direct Start T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Shake N Bake T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Stage Fright S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Stage Fright Left Variation S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Stand, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Welcome to the Stronghold T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 280 ft (85 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Merle Wheeler, Mark and Gary Axen, 1972. |
| Page Views: | 13,331 total · 47/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Dec 23, 2001 |
| Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Description
Another great route. The first pitch is best and is what justifies the classic rating, but the rest is also good.
Approach Stronghold dome via the standard trail. You will see a striking roof on the south end of the East face, perhaps 70 feet off of the gound. A fingercrack ascends to the roof from the ground.
P1: 5.9, 140'. Climb a fingercrack from the ground up to the roof above on the south end of the East face of the Stronghold Dome. This is the finest and hardest part of this route.
Climb out and right to traverse the roof and reach a flake system with some questionable rock. The gear here is as good as the rock you put it in, which is questionable in places. Keep on your toes and keep climbing out the flake. Eventually, this will go up over a mild bulge and cross the blunt corner to the right... after which it will become a solid crack leading to a good bolted belay out on the South face.
P2: 5.7 or 5.9+, 140'. This pitch is moderate, but more than moderately runout. We "missed" the easy part and ended up on a bolted variation to the top. For the 5.7 climb up and left toward the East edge of the South Face, past a bolt, and then past a horizontal and up left to the summit. Otherwise, you will encounter a bolted line (5.9+?) which we rode up and zig-zagged to the summit.
Photos
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