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> Elephant Arches
Black President
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.8 from 21
votes
Routes in Elephant Arches
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Black President T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Vice President T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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| Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m) |
| FA: | Craig Fry, Dave Evans & Dave Bruckman, December 1984 |
| Page Views: | 5,095 total · 21/month |
| Shared By: | Randy on Dec 31, 2004 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Mike Morley, C Miller, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Gunkswest |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This is simply a great route and well worth the hike. The fact that several other fine routes are found nearby (and the now historically prescient nature of the route name) should put this on your "Must Do" list.
This face and crack route begins just right of center of the formation, on the face just right of a recess/crack (Vice President). There is a large patch of cactus near the base.
Moderate, but unprotected face climbing leads to a bolt which protects moves (easy 5.10) into a shallow crack system. Follow this crack to a horizontal break. Above here, a second bolt protects thin face moves up and right (5.10d -- height dependant) to reach a series of left leaning cracks (5.11a) which provide challenging climbing to the very end.
Belay at a two bolt anchor on the dike.
You can make a 115 foot rappel (single 70 meter rope just makes it) from the belay anchor. Beware of the cactus around the base when pulling your ropes if you do rappel.
Alternatively, downclimb the south shoulder (down and right; 5.6).
This face and crack route begins just right of center of the formation, on the face just right of a recess/crack (Vice President). There is a large patch of cactus near the base.
Moderate, but unprotected face climbing leads to a bolt which protects moves (easy 5.10) into a shallow crack system. Follow this crack to a horizontal break. Above here, a second bolt protects thin face moves up and right (5.10d -- height dependant) to reach a series of left leaning cracks (5.11a) which provide challenging climbing to the very end.
Belay at a two bolt anchor on the dike.
You can make a 115 foot rappel (single 70 meter rope just makes it) from the belay anchor. Beware of the cactus around the base when pulling your ropes if you do rappel.
Alternatively, downclimb the south shoulder (down and right; 5.6).
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