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Routes in Super Hits - Bloody Fingers
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Bloody Fingers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Dorworth's Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Double Vision T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Mystery Achievement S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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New Toy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X |
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October T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Twist and Crawl T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Steinfell Club 1960s |
| Page Views: | 33,049 total · 132/month |
| Shared By: | Guy H. on Jun 14, 2004 · Updates |
| Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) No trash cans. (3) Highlining temporary ban in place for CIRO and CRSP
Details
(1) The area, crags, and routes just north of the Twin Sisters are on private land and the landowner recently posted no trespassing notices at the gated road/trail to the area. Any access of these areas and routes is trespassing. The area was closed by the landowner due to trespassing, illegal camping, fires & trash, and disregard of owner's privacy.
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Description
This is probably the best 5.10a trad crack climb at the city, with Thin Slice coming in a close 2nd. It is located on the east side of the Lower Breadloafs about 200ft from the large group parking lot.
The crux is the first 25ft, which is protected by a #1.5 friend or equilivant. Fire in the pro and lieback the slanting crack to the horn. (which is a little loose) The final 75ft follows a right leaning finger-hand-finger crack to a 2 bolt anchor. The final tough section below the anchor can be avoided by runout 5.8 face climbing on the left. A rap with a single 60M will put you on the ground.
The crux is the first 25ft, which is protected by a #1.5 friend or equilivant. Fire in the pro and lieback the slanting crack to the horn. (which is a little loose) The final 75ft follows a right leaning finger-hand-finger crack to a 2 bolt anchor. The final tough section below the anchor can be avoided by runout 5.8 face climbing on the left. A rap with a single 60M will put you on the ground.
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