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Captain Fairview
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British R
Avg: 3.1 from 7
votes
Routes in North Face
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Arsonist, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Captain Fairview T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Fairest of All T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Fairview Heights T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Fiddler on the Roof T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Inverted Staircase T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Lyme Line T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Regular Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rumor Has It T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 900 ft (273 m), 10 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Sean Kriletich/Bob Jensen |
| Page Views: | 5,005 total · 32/month |
| Shared By: | Salamanizer Ski on Apr 15, 2012 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
Pitch 1: start up huge left facing left arching corner on the far left side of the dome. Arc de Triumph and Separation Anxiety share this pitch. Belay at small ledge below where arch heads left. 5.6 200'
Pitch 2: Follow straight up through overhanging corner stemming past blocks and very small pine tree. Continue up left facing corner staying left which turns into the "Half Dollar of Fairview." Climb this until ledge. 10a 190' NOTE: Optional belay before Half Dollar not recommended unless screwed with drag. Also, this Half Dollar climbs nothing like El Cap's version and doesn't even face the same direction. Its a half dollar though! :)
Pitch 3: From ledge follow flake (20 ft left of L facing corner) to roof with bolt. Climb up and right through roof to small stance at awkward left leaning corner. Continue up left trending feature to large ledge and belay. 11b
Pitch 4: From the left side of ledge the "Butt Ass Seam" heads straight up. Follow this past some pins and gear until the crack peters out. Face climb past two bolts until small right facing corner is reached (Arch de Triumph) and belay upon reaching the ledge. 11a Two bolt anchor
Pitch 5: Very fun and wild pitch. Clip first bolt and do some 10a/b moves for a body length. Continue up ridiculous runout on 5.8 bomber rock, "The Sea of NO Knobs" until a bolt is reached thankfully. Curse FA party and head up to roof. Undercling up and right until hand rail leading out left through roof is reached. Fire in some bomb gear and monkey your ass left out the rail until you pull around lip to awesome belay which consists of two bolts. 11b NOTE: take care using LONG runners through roof. Be wise.
Pitch 6: From this awesome belay at the base of the headwall climb up and right, traversing along the lip of the giant arching roof, clipping bolts and placing gear. IF the leader places good gear then the rope won't grate along the lip if a fall is taken. Reach the "A Farewell to Kings" / "Arc de Triumph" corner and belay a ways up/ back clean it so follower has peace of mind on last bit of traverse. 10c ** OR **, skip the traverse and go for the prize with Lyme Line up to the top. Two pitches of awesome Fairview climbing. Some of the best I've encountered. Consult route list.
Pitch 7,8,9,10 Follow FTK/AdT to top. All meet up with Inverted Staircase for last two pitches. Consult book
Pitch 2: Follow straight up through overhanging corner stemming past blocks and very small pine tree. Continue up left facing corner staying left which turns into the "Half Dollar of Fairview." Climb this until ledge. 10a 190' NOTE: Optional belay before Half Dollar not recommended unless screwed with drag. Also, this Half Dollar climbs nothing like El Cap's version and doesn't even face the same direction. Its a half dollar though! :)
Pitch 3: From ledge follow flake (20 ft left of L facing corner) to roof with bolt. Climb up and right through roof to small stance at awkward left leaning corner. Continue up left trending feature to large ledge and belay. 11b
Pitch 4: From the left side of ledge the "Butt Ass Seam" heads straight up. Follow this past some pins and gear until the crack peters out. Face climb past two bolts until small right facing corner is reached (Arch de Triumph) and belay upon reaching the ledge. 11a Two bolt anchor
Pitch 5: Very fun and wild pitch. Clip first bolt and do some 10a/b moves for a body length. Continue up ridiculous runout on 5.8 bomber rock, "The Sea of NO Knobs" until a bolt is reached thankfully. Curse FA party and head up to roof. Undercling up and right until hand rail leading out left through roof is reached. Fire in some bomb gear and monkey your ass left out the rail until you pull around lip to awesome belay which consists of two bolts. 11b NOTE: take care using LONG runners through roof. Be wise.
Pitch 6: From this awesome belay at the base of the headwall climb up and right, traversing along the lip of the giant arching roof, clipping bolts and placing gear. IF the leader places good gear then the rope won't grate along the lip if a fall is taken. Reach the "A Farewell to Kings" / "Arc de Triumph" corner and belay a ways up/ back clean it so follower has peace of mind on last bit of traverse. 10c ** OR **, skip the traverse and go for the prize with Lyme Line up to the top. Two pitches of awesome Fairview climbing. Some of the best I've encountered. Consult route list.
Pitch 7,8,9,10 Follow FTK/AdT to top. All meet up with Inverted Staircase for last two pitches. Consult book
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