PRINT: Rock Climbing in Castle Valley, Southeast Utah

Castle Valley

Utah > Southeast Utah

Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.

Description

Castle Valley is the place to go for your baptism into desert towers. This area is one of the birthplaces of tower climbing. Maybe you've heard of the Kor-Ingalls Route, listed on the 50 North American Classic climbs? Other climbs that should be done before you become too old and fat to climb are Honeymoon Chimney, Jah Man, and Fine Jade.

Overall, the rock is as good as desert sandstone (Wingate) gets, but beware of the slippery white calcite coatings found on much of the rock here. Most routes start at honest 5.9.

Getting There

These directions are from Moab. Basically, the turn-off for Castle Valley is about 20 miles NE of Moab off SH 128 (River Road). Look for the sign for Castle Valley. To do anything on the Priest, Rectory, or Castleton Tower, take the Castle Valley turn-off (see here;hl=en&ll=38.683517,-109.422863&spn=0.019145,0.027637&t=h&z=16&layer=c&cbll=38.683482,-109.422968&panoid=7Lzf7IgJDmdPMKWUBs3ozg&cbp=12,85.56,,0,6.22 for a photo)

Go about 4.7 miles on the Castle Valley road, and then turn left on a noticeable dirt road. Go until you can't anymore.

For Sister Superior, go about another mile up 128 (i.e., not taking the Castle Valley turn-off) and look for a dirt road (obviously on the right since the left will send you towards the Colorado River). See here;hl=en&ll=38.692207,-109.410858&spn=0.001201,0.001727&t=k&z=20&layer=c&cbll=38.692207,-109.410858&panoid=EVzLfIsoEKc-jiwGRqwinw&cbp=12,96.73,,0,-0.42 for a photo of the turnout, which may also be seen from above here.;hl=en&ll=38.692377,-109.41031&spn=0.03842,0.055275&t=k&z=15

Hey, just look for stuff and figure out how to get there. Its not like there are tons of trees blocking your view. In both cases be prepared to walk. THIS WAS GOOD BETA IN 1970, BUT LET'S TRY SOME LANGUAGE THAT ENCOURAGES THE HORDES TO STAY ON TRAIL. SOMETHING LIKE:

Climber trails in Castle Valley are generally well-marked and trodden. Look for cairns and strive to avoid trampling the fragile biocrust that holds life together in this part of the world. The desert thanks you!

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

hey, lets go do the kor-ingalls!

Castleton, the Rectory, and the Pope after spring dusting of snow.

july sunrise lightning

The Priest, the Rectory, and Castleton Tower.

Castleton and the Rectory

Castle Valley

The Castleton massif

Evening light in Castle Valley, from the Porcupine Rim. July 2013

Castle Valley Twilight

Castleton and company from the Fisher Towers. January 1, 2009. The colors weren't altered or enhanced at all.

Porcupine Rim rockfall

Aerial view of Castleton Tower, the Rectory, and the Priest; view to the southwest.<br>
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Photo taken by Louis J. Maher in 1966; used with permission.

Aerial view of Castleton Tower, the Rectory, and the Priest; view to the southwest. Photo taken by Louis J. Maher in 1966; used with permission.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Anonymous Coward

Access to Castleton is restricted by private property now. You need to look for a rough road to the west of the old turn-out and the approach is much longer. If we continue to use the old appraoch we run the risk of pissing off the locals and loosing all access. Jan 2, 2002

Anonymous Coward

could you elaborate, please? What is the private property/access situation exactly, and how long has it been in effect? I didn't notice any no trespassing signs last time I was there, and the sign at the trailhead was still up (in November). Is there a trail from the parking area you suggest? How about better directions? Has there been anything about this in the mags? Jan 7, 2002

Anonymous Coward

As some of the may know, the access lands and camping areas around Castleton Tower are currently threatened by development. In order to prevent this from happening, the Castle Rock Collaboration ( castlerockcollaboration.org) was formed with the goal of finding a 100% conservation solution for this land. They have entered into an agreement to purchase the land around Castleton Tower, but now they need your help to raise the funds for this purchase. Any contributions you can make, however large or small, will be greatly appreciated. For more information, please visit their web site at: castlerockcollaboration.org Feb 8, 2003

E.T.

From personal expierance castle valley is nearly unclimbable in the summer. Also it is well worth your time to find and stay on the trail. Bushwaching it is very hard and dangerous. Finally if you are bold/dumb enought to attempt it in the summer plan 1.5 gallons/person per day. Sep 10, 2003

Derek (friendly east coast climber)

Just wondering, i am from the east coast and plan on climbing Castleton Tower on my spring break; are there any updated guides or topos that might cover access with respect to the current issues with Castle Valley? If not where is the Castle Valley climber's campground located? ThanksDerek Oct 14, 2003

Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado

For the apres-climb time, there is a terrific little winery with wine tasting just downstream along the River Road. Castle Creek Winery at Mile 14, Hwy 128 in the Red Cliffs Lodge. Reasonable prices. Chardonnay & the Merlot are particularly enjoyable. Apr 26, 2006

Petsfed 00
Snohomish, WA

I drove down from Laramie years ago and got to the parking lot around 10pm. If its warm enough (you'll know if it is), its worthwhile to toss the sleeping bag in your pack and hike up to the base. The trail isn't difficult to find, and depending on the condition of the final 1/4 mile, it might make the trail's exposure easier to deal with. We made it to the base just after midnight, so we still got a solid 5-6 hours sleep before starting up the next day. There were some rock structures present to help block the wind as well, and since you're packing two ropes anyway, you can just lay out the tarp and sleep on them, old school mountaineer style. Plus, the ridge to the west blocks all the light from Moab, so you get a sky so dark that I could actually see color in the Milky Way.

Also, if you elect to do Kor-Ingalls, fight your Vedauwoo instincts. Climbed as a regular offwidth, it ain't 5.9. Mar 7, 2010

fossana
leeds, ut

Newish pit toilet in the campground below Castleton. Many thanks to Friends of Indian Creek. Please show your support with a donation. Mar 12, 2012

Jason Antin
Golden, CO

Some cool footage of Castleton Tower & The Rectory!

vimeo.com/151771519 Jan 22, 2016

Shire-mon
Moab, UT / Boone, NC

Hi,

Today my partner fell at the top of pitch one of The North Chimney on Castleton Tower and hurt himself bad enough to lower him immediately and begin a rescue. After 2-3 hours of self rescuing we decided to call Search and Rescue to get more hands helping him down. They sent a helicopter, so that happened! ANYWAY,,,, I still have about 10 or so cams up on the first pitch. I intend on going back up to retrieve them ASAP, but weather and time dependent, it could take me until Friday to head back up. So PLEASE, if you get there before me, help me get my gear back. I left it there to perform an epic rescue! My friend is ok with only an injured ankle, which could have been soooo much worse after taking that monster whip! I live in Moab.

Brett Sherman
919-244-8744
shermanbd8744@gmail.com Feb 18, 2016

Garrett Foster Green
Salt Lake, UT

Lost a roll of color Kodak film Saturday. If I lost it anywhere I lost it in the parking lot. If anyone finds it I'd be eternally grateful. I'll repay you kindly for your troubles. Jun 4, 2018

Cade Smith

Upon departure today, (may 15) I believe i left my blue rope bag in the parking/camping area. It should be super obvious. attached are my shoes, my helmet, some static rope, and a #2 and #3 cam. If you see or find it it PLEASE contact me I beg you. May 15, 2022