George Bell Boulder, CO

[Hide Comment] This route continues past pitch 5, but virtually nobody does this. We once did the next pitch or two, which are pretty nice (one was 10a). Then as I recall the Meyer's topo has a pitch of traversing left, and this looked to be pretty scary so we headed down. Nov 8, 2006

James Schroeder Fort Collins, CO

[Hide Comment] First five pitches are stunning - 5 stars out of 4 Dec 18, 2006

Adam Steel Salt Lake City

[Hide Comment] Anybody who tells you that the first pitch is the crux is only trying to snake the 2nd crux (and most stunning) pitch from you. Jan 14, 2007

Josh Janes   5.9

[Hide Comment] Post Script on my route description: A week or two after doing this climb I went back to do Stoner's Highway again. My partner and I were several pitches up and I was on the lead when suddenly I heard her yelling, "Oh shit! Oh shit no!" I was already on edge due to the nature of the climbing on Stoner's, and her exclaimations had my heart in my throat... I was actually relieved to find out the commotion was not because of catastrophic anchor failure or something like that, but rather because a mother bear and her cub had just strolled out of the woods in the direction of our packs (which were leaning against the wall at the base of the route). Meanwhile a party of German climbers, eye level with us on Central Pillar, also began shouting as the bears paused to poke around at their packs. I clipped into an anchor and watched helplessly as the bears left the Germans' packs (who quickly stopped yelling), and began sniffing ours. A long minute passed. Suddenly the bears turned around, leaving our packs alone, walked straight back to the Germans' packs, and began violently tearing them apart and eating their contents! I'm not sure what they had in theirs but it must have been better than the sweaty socks and approach shoes in mine. My partner and I breathed a sigh of relief and I chuckled as the Germans' began hurling the only thing they could at the bears: obscentities, unmistakable in any language... Jan 29, 2007

Monomaniac Morrison, CO

[Hide Comment] This is a stellar route for the grade/length. However, it can be a bit unpleasant for those with small hands. I did it with my girlfriend a few years ago and she hated it. Jul 30, 2007

trundlebum Las Vegas NV

[Hide Comment] George is corrrect: The 6th pitch is a .10a right facing layback, well worth doing. The 7th is 5.8/5.9. From here you can continue up. I have never been above here, but Meyers topo shows a .10c lb and thin crack pitch, then a .10d thin pitch. A short bit of .10 face and 4th class gets you onto the Powell/Reed ledges (but why?). Also there is the possibility of doing a face traverse, (scary, only one bolt and who knows of the condition?) From just below the belay on the top of pitch 7, over to the 5th pitch of the Bircheff/Williams route. In turn, at the end of pitch 5 of the Bircheff/williams rt. it joins with the Kor/beck route at it's 6th pitch belay. For those that wince at the thought of even a .8 valley offwidth (2nd 1/2 of p-3)... No worries, although it is offwidth size and offwidth technique is needed, the angle is forgiving and the crack is quite featured making the footwork not so pure offwidth. comment to "monomaniac": If your girlfriend hated this climb, I hope she promptly gave up trad climbing forever and took up knitting. Sep 5, 2007

Monomaniac Morrison, CO

[Hide Comment] Trundlebum wrote: "comment to "monomaniac": If your girlfriend hated this climb, I hope she promptly gave up trad climbing forever and took up knitting." Dear god! I hope she doesn't; I'd be SOL! A short memory is a key asset of the Alpine Climber. In this case, a girflriend with a short memory.... Oct 1, 2007

Sirius Oakland, CA

[Hide Comment] The second pitch is a beauty no doubt, as is every pitch on this classic. But the 5th stands out in my memory as uncommon, airy, diverse, and super fun. There's nothing striking about it like the splitter on the second, the roof on the third, or the double cracks on the fourth. Don't know, that pitch just had a good flow to it. Oct 15, 2007

Matthew Fienup Santa Rosa Valley, CA

[Hide Comment] Another correction to the SuperTopo description: when using the standard rappel line (Metolius rap-hangers down Bercheff-Williams), the 3rd rappel is ~140 feet (not 115'). Also, the anchor atop the final rappel is well below the tree (not next to the tree, as shown). Finding these in the dark could be a little dumbfounding given the SuperTopo description. Oct 30, 2007

armand rollice rancho cucamonga

[Hide Comment] Very beautiful route. The climbing is fun the view beautiful. El Capitain right across. The first pitch wakes you up right away when you start climbing the route early in the morning. Got lucky and was the first party on the route. After us there were three partys waiting to climb. Get an early start! Feb 26, 2008

tooTALLtim Vanlife

[Hide Comment] Absolutely phenomenal route, each pitch on its own is stellar, but five pitches is almost too much to wrap your mind around! Jun 9, 2008

Ian G. PDX, OR   5.9+

[Hide Comment] My buddy Mike had already done this route, so he let me have the awesome roof pitch (third pitch). However, he decided we should go "light" so we did the route with one #4. So, I pulled the roof and stared in awe at the 5.8 OW above me. Oh...sh!t. I walked the #4 as far as I could and eventually did a move where I could reach down to walk it any further. Probably ran it out for 25 feet. It's easy climbing, but if you're not comfortable with that much space between you and gear, you might consider two #4's. Apr 16, 2009

Steven Sheets Livermore, CA

[Hide Comment] Some thoughts: p1--burly but not terrible difficult p2 was harder for me. p3 & p4 were the best imo--alas I fixed a #3 camalot under the roof. The OW on p3 is a walk-up, real fun. A bear ransacked my pack at the base so beware. Jul 27, 2009

John Ely Washington D.C.

[Hide Comment] A fine route. I found a lot of rope drag on the 5th pitch as it gets inside the lower wide cracks. More slings might help; a long pitch which uses lots of gear. Oct 13, 2009

Cory Harelson Boise, ID   5.9

[Hide Comment] This climb was so much fun! Every pitch was steller. We climbed this the 1st week in May and had to chop steps up the hard snow using a sharp stick to get to the base. The first pitch was wet and slick, but the rest were dry. My favorite pitch was the second, with the beautiful steep finger locks. Pitch 3 was really cool too, pulling the roof using good jams. I placed my #4 pretty soon after the roof and then ran it out the rest of the way to the anchors since the OW is pretty secure. I also thought pitch 5 was really good, with several difficult moves between good stances. There was nobody behind us so we just rapped the route. We got down in 3 double rope rappels. First rappel from P5 to P3, second rappel from P3 to P1, third rappel from P1 to ground and over the snow field. I believe that you could rap the first four pitches with 1 60m rope, but pitch 5 wouldn't make it. May 3, 2010

C. Hill   5.9

[Hide Comment] Climbed this route with my girlfriend starting at 6pm on July 3, 2010. The first pitch was probably the most awkward, and the second the most physical (and pure awesome!). To be honest, I found the p3 "offwidth" to be a little disappointing...I have small hands and found this to be mostly a very low angle handcrack with a few fist jams (without any tape whatsoever). You definitely want some wide gear (3.5-4") to protect it, but the crack wavers enough that no chickenwinging was required. Jul 5, 2010

Andy Laakmann Bend, OR

[Hide Comment] As good as 5.9 gets. First pitch was very wet - which made it even more awkward and slippery! But the gear is good at least. The 5.8 OW is easy. I brought 2x(new)#4 and one #3.5 and it was more than enough, but I happily placed them all. A #3 goes in above the roof before it gets too wide as well. The SuperTopo rap beta is confusing since there are two rap routes shown. When you look it at, you'd think you rap down the last two pitches of the route and then over the roof and straight down. This is not the case. You rap climber's left about 150' to a stance just up and left of the P3 top belay. Then you do a 110' rap over the giant corner system to somewhat hidden anchors perched on a stance just to the left of the arete - I almost passed these anchors, so be on the lookout. Then two more raps down. Oct 12, 2011

Michelle Leber Moab, UT

[Hide Comment] Great route! P2 was my favorite. I was intimidated by the 5.8 OW section for no reason. If Little John Left is 5.8 OW, IMHO this section is 5.6 or 5.7 fists (even for someone with small hands). It is low angle, narrows toward the back, and has some good feet to rest. Using Andy's recommended gear, it's not scary, it's super fun! May 14, 2012

Jeff Scheuerell

[Hide Comment] If you like long pitches, link 1&2 and 3&4. Although, linking 2&3 is one of my all time favorite pitches. Sep 29, 2012

Aaron Hope San Luis Obispo

[Hide Comment] I agree with the comment about the 5.8 offwidth section being MUCH easier than Little John left. Dec 26, 2012

Lana dude

[Hide Comment] P4 Double cracks reminds me of the top of Bishop's Terrace, except it lasts much longer. This was my favorite pitch, partly because it's a bit easier lead and overall the route was near my limit. For a strong 5.10 leader the most satisfying pitches are probably 2 & 3. Apr 29, 2013

Bernard Van De Walle Boulder, CO

[Hide Comment] Don't do this route with a single rope !!! We almost had an epic after goin with just one 70 meter. (it is not clearly stated on the suprertopo). Hopefully we managed to find some intermediate rap anchors under the roof on the far right. May 27, 2013

BFK TBD   5.9+

[Hide Comment] Nice route, although various sections of awkward jamming (including the entire first pitch and 2nd half of P5) somewhat detract from all the hype this route gets. Also, you can link P4 & P5 with a 70M (just barely though). Oct 28, 2013

Max Tepfer Bend, OR

[Hide Comment] One #4 is plenty w/bumping. Plenty of #3 placements on the 1st half of the OW. P1 and P2 link nicely as do P3 and P4. Nov 8, 2013

Jay Bird Marin, CA   5.9

[Hide Comment] "But the 5th stands out in my memory as uncommon, airy, diverse, and super fun." I'd agree with this. I remember the 2nd half eating up microcams for good protection and it feeling more like face climbing than crack climbing. Was thrilling with all the exposure :) Of course the rest of the route is super awesome too!!! Pitch 6 looked great....gotta go back and climb higher barring an earlier start. Nov 25, 2013

Jan Tarculas San Diego, Ca   5.9+

[Hide Comment] I just did this route on Saturday 3/15/14\, 5 stars out of 4. Each pitch was classic. Favorite pitch was pulling the roof. I suck at offwidth and every comment about it being easy was very true. There's a fixed cam inside that pitch, but make sure to keep a #4 with you after pulling the roof. I walked mine the entire way up and a 3.5 along with it. Save a #2 for the roof itself. I had to down climb because I used both of them lower down. If I knew I would've have brought a pair of quicklinks/chains with me. The last rap on supertopo beta (left of the route itself, under the roof) are just bolts with old slings/tat with wrap rings. They look pretty sketch. It would be nice if someone replaced those with some good metal. Did this in 3 raps. top of pitch 5 to top of pitch 4, then to rap bolts described previously at bottom of roof, then to the ground Mar 17, 2014

Ben Kraft Mammoth

[Hide Comment] The fixed quadcam in the "offwidth" is pretty brutalized and not structurally sound (unless you sling it as a chock). It has a ~8mm bolted axle -- someone should be a hero and bring a small adjustable wrench and remove it. Otherwise, great conditions on 4/6/14 (highs around 60). First pitch was wet with a small snowpack, rest of the climb was perfectly clean. Apr 7, 2014

Josh Dibble Mammoth Lakes, CA

[Hide Comment] Maybe the best crack climb at 5.9 ever. The first pitch gives you no indication of how mind blowing and fun the next three pitches are. The OW is more like a fist crack. You just stand in the thing perfectly and walk up it, nice break on the toes. Maybe the easiest approach in the valley with and epic view of the captain. May 4, 2014

Jeff Edge Bend, OR

[Hide Comment] Just a bunch of perfect cracks I dunno what all the fuss is about... Just kidding, route goes easily in 3 pitches with a 60, having done it this way I couldn't imagine doing it any other. Idk what's up with the supertopo pitch lengths, but 1&2 link and 2&3 link with several feet of rope left over (yes with a 60). I had a little bit of drag at the top of the 2nd pitch, but certainly not enough to complain about. Also, there is a bear box at the base, so there ya go. Jul 26, 2014

Alex Chiang

[Hide Comment] It is possible to bump a #3 BD cam almost the entire length of P3, but the section is long enough that you'd want to have at least 2 of them and leave one at the halfway mark. I have hands on the smaller side, but the fact that the #3 is sufficient means that this pitch is more like fists for me, than an actual OW. A #4 isn't strictly necessary (but I guess wouldn't hurt). Just make sure you save 2 pieces of that size for *after* the roof and you'll be fine. Jul 28, 2015

bradley white Bend

[Hide Comment] Wonderful climb. While rappelling partner dropped our ropes into the off width crack. My partner had put a knot in the rope ends and it got deeply wedged in there. Did a tug of war with the mountain and pulled the ropes out of the crack. It almost was an epic descent. Aug 21, 2015

Roger Breedlove

[Hide Comment] Account of First Ascent by Jim Bridwell,Roger Breedlove and Dale Bard First Ascent Account 1973 supertopo.com/climbing/thre… Aug 23, 2015

Mark Rivera Boulder, CO

[Hide Comment] Anyone find a C4 #5 (with blue tape and nail polish) at the bottom of this route? I think we left one there in a night-time walk off on 11/7. Reward (2+ packages of Extreme Sports Beans and hi-five) if found. marktrivera[at]gmail[dot]com P.s. Awesome route! Nov 10, 2015

Jordan Cannon Las Vegas, NV

[Hide Comment] Best 5 pitch 5.9 i've done in the Valley, WAY better than the Nutcracker- steeper, splitter, and sustained. The off-width on the third pitch after you pull the roof isn't bad at all, just make sure not to get your gear or rope stuck in the crack. Apr 3, 2016

Max R Bend

[Hide Comment] Climbed this on the 15th! Theres a large snow pack at the base that you have to climb down into the start P1 which made it interesting. P1 was also super wet and really difficult. Ended up bailing off of the top of P3 because it was gusting and 35 degrees out :( Apr 17, 2016

Tim Halder Seattle, WA

[Hide Comment] Climbed this back in May with my sweetie and had the whole route to ourselves. The first pitch is definitely the crux...be prepped for a bit of slimy and insecure climbing, but there is gear available to keep it chill. A #4 was helpful for me. Second pitch is awesome, and the best of the route in my opinion. If anyone finds a silvery St. Christopher necklace pendant at the base of the route, I would be mucho happy to get it back. It is my late father's...my heart sank as I heard it ting-ting-tinging down the route (5-10-16) when it fell off my neck. It is a cross shaped pendant about 1" or so in size. Thanks! Tim therunningdog@yahoo.com. Aug 23, 2016

TheGabernator New York, NY

[Hide Comment] The best 5-pitch 5.9 on the planet. Sep 13, 2016

Vit	[Hide Comment] There are two fixed cams on the P3 OW. Leave the #4s home! Oct 14, 2016

Kristian Solem Monrovia, CA

[Hide Comment] I did the line through to the top in the mid 80's with a guy I met in Camp four who called himself The Mad Hatter. At the time I thought it was very exciting and worthwhile. We had planned to rap the normal way down, but when we got there I looked up and said let's go. I recall there was some bold climbing up there but nothing harder than 5.10. Coming down the gully in the dark was rough going. Dec 10, 2016

jeff S

[Hide Comment] We climbed this route on May 13th, 2017. We ended up leaving a yellow 60m rope on pitch 4 after it got stuck on the crack. Here's the story of how that happened... Mistake 1: Didn't bring jackets. After the sun went down, the wind also picked up and climbing with just a think thermal layer didn't cut it. We were turning into icicles on the belays. Mistake 2: Didn't take the rap route. Due to mistake 1 above, my follows wasn't up for finishing the last pitch so I had to rap down back to top of 4 after the lead. Mistake 2a was trying to clean from the static rap line, which veers off to the left so I couldn't clean it completely. Had to haul myself back up to do a two rope rappel. Mistake 2b was getting the rope stuck when we pulled it down. P.S. The first pitch was really sandy and because of the snow base, you have to go from the face into the corner with some dicey maneuvers. The rest of the pitches were stellar though. If anyone recovered the rope, I'm sure my climbing partner would love to have it back. jeffsham1[at]gmail[dot]com May 18, 2017

Brad Jensen

[Hide Comment] Just did this route on Saturday, June 2. There is a fixed line on the anchor at the top of the fifth pitch (or first rappel). Everyone's ropes were getting twisted and tangled due to the pull on the anchor. Had to spend extra time undoing a rats nest after pulling the rope. I'd advise bringing something to extend the rap anchor. Jun 5, 2017

Derek Field Nevada   5.9

[Hide Comment] The rappel line is a double-roped nightmare. At time of writing there is a fixed rap line - definitely utilize this, avoid the shenanigans. Jun 8, 2017

Jeff Scheuerell

[Hide Comment] I am sure I have done that climb 50 or more times, does it get any better? The raps seemed way above average, far from a nightmare. I doubt the raps have changed much but the climbers sure have. WTF we now have fixed rap lines??? Jun 8, 2017

Derek Field Nevada   5.9

[Hide Comment] Jeff, you're absolutely right! Our ropes got stuck because we're obviously not as tough as climbers were back in the day. Jul 15, 2017

Undocked Piggies People's Republic of West M…

[Hide Comment] nearly decent climb Jul 29, 2017

King Tut Citrus Heights

[Hide Comment] For first pitch stem like a boss and don't wedge in the crack. 10x harder if you wedge. 2nd pitch is money, 3rd pitch after that has hidden jugs in the roof. 4/5 not remarkable, 6th pitch actually is excellent, 10a lieback. Jan 1, 2018

Vincent Gallegos Davis, CA   5.9

[Hide Comment] Every pitch is pure glory. Better get ready to wait in line! I'm personally going to bring 2x #4 cams on the 3rd pitch next time. The beta is to TR Bircheff on the way down for the extra lap. Feb 8, 2018

Danny Beatty Mount Shasta, CA

[Hide Comment] In case this hasn’t already been mentioned their’s typically a snowfield at the base of the route in early season. Climbed the route on 4/22 and a small bergshrund-like opening has formed between the wall and the snowfield that covers the first 20-30 ft of P1. If you were to fall into the opening before getting in your first piece it could be really bad. Something to be aware of. Apr 24, 2019

Alexey Zelditch San Jose

[Hide Comment] always climb Cental Pilar with ice ax Apr 24, 2019

Hiroshi Tomita Sisters, OR

[Hide Comment] We climbed to the top of pitch 5 and started rappelling down planning to rap down Bircheff-Williams as shown on Super Topo. We found the anchor but didn't see rap rings or chains on it so rapped Central Pillar of Frenzy instead. We were the last party on the wall so it went pretty smoothly until we got to the last rap, at the top of pitch 2. The anchor looked just like the anchor we passed up at the first rap - massive hangers with no rap rings or chains. We inspected the anchor and after close inspection we think these are meant to be rapped off of. In short, don't pass on the rap route that goes down Bircheff-Williams. Apr 29, 2019

Ryan Pfleger Boise, ID

[Hide Comment] Climbed this the other day. So good! I thought the second pitch was the crux, but followed the first so maybe that is why. We also got a 10 foot head start on top of the snow. Pitches 2, 3, and 4 get full stars for me. Rapped with a single 70m, although the line that allows this isn't obvious. Go climbers left from the top of the 5th pitch. Stay on top of the lip until the final rappel. A couple of these rappels are rope stretchers, so pay attention and/or tie knots. If your rope is 68m you may not make it. May 7, 2019

Ryan Henderson Denver, CO

[Hide Comment] Amazing stunning route. Loved every pitch! I was most anxious about pitch 3, even practiced at Vedauwoo these last couple weeks, only to find out that it's basically a fist jam! Even sometimes a forearm jam (which is wide, but almost more secure then fists). It even has the occasional hand jam! Haha. So yeah, it wasn't bad at all. Pitch 5 was the most surprising, and mentally tough for me. Definitely do this route though :) Sep 23, 2019

Christian Hesch Morro Bay   5.9

[Hide Comment] -We took an 80m to make both linking and the raps a little nicer. worked very well. -linked 1-2 and 4-5. Very little rope drag on each of these (had an 8.9, to be fair). -brought a single #4, it was basically unnecessary. Between the stuck #4 and bringing a couple of #3's, the only place to use it was close to the end of P3 and it was just so I didn't feel like I drug it up for nothing. Next time I'll leave it at home. DO NOT BRING 3 OF THEM! -Probably only needed a single #3. -Brought a double set of totems and single set of dmm offset nuts, except swapped out one orange totem for a #2, which goes perfect in the roof (orange totem is not as good as bd #2 setting the roof). Don't think I ever used two black totems, so could leave one. Only brought a double set to link the pitches but might get away with a single set and extra nuts, if you want to go light. Just bring enough alpines and quickdraws. -I felt waaaaaay faster/better/safer simul rapping it on a single 80. My partner mentioned this to the leader behind us at one belay and he said "oh that's super sketch man!" Ahem, doing a slow a**ed rap that has you doing the last 4 raps in the dark is also sketch. They were on the last pitch as we started the raps, we got down and back to the car right as it became dark, drove over to the meadow, and were having beverages, and could see them barely starting the 3rd rap. I'll simul rap anyday to avoid rapping in the dark, thanks. Stay on the face (don't go over the edge into the L facing dihedral (Bircheff)) if you plan on rapping w/ a single 80m. -Finally. Don't climb w/ a backpack, it makes the 1st and 5th pitch far more difficult than it needs to be. Hudon will be proud of you for it ;) Oct 29, 2019

John Long Venice

[Hide Comment] The Direct has a 5.12 first pitch that joins the regular route at the end of the 2nd belay. The Direct Finish adds another 4 pitches of great climbing, including a spectacular 1 inch 5.11 incisor crack and a bold 5.11 last pitch up a steep slab to Planet Garcia - a big ledge at the bottom of the U-Shaped Bowl. One of the great ones. Dec 5, 2020

Harris Kashtan   5.9

[Hide Comment] First attempted this one in the late spring and was turned back after the 2nd pitch due to the heat and sun exposure. Came back in October and finished it. Great climb with a ton of variety. I really don't recall the OW section being anything significant for those debating not doing this because of it. Sounds like pitch 6 and 7 would be worth doing another day. Jul 2, 2021

Sandy Dash Beaverton, OR

[Hide Comment] For me, this route was a slick intro to Yosemite. TR: dashertonclimbs.com/2021/06… Dec 22, 2021

Bill Howard Ventura, Ca

[Hide Comment] youtube.com/shorts/WmAYevIO… Dec 23, 2021

Stin Man Encinitas, CA

[Hide Comment] Just wanted to reiterate for those rapping with an 80 on BW. Keep your head on a swivel and go slow, there is an intermediate rap station maybe 20m below the 3rd rap station on the big ledge of the arete. This rap station is out climbers left on the face. The 80 will not reach the next station down the arete unless you hit this intermediate station. Apr 1, 2022

Christopher Shin San Jose, CA

[Hide Comment] Climbed this on April 30th and there was large snowpack at the base with about a 15 foot drop between the snowpack and the wall. Might be a good idea to get your belayer anchored in with a cam or two for safety. My follower climbed with a pack but we hauled it up the 1st and 5th pitch. I think in hindsight, it might be easier to have the leader trail the 2nd rope up. Super cool route. P3 was my favorite with p4 being a close second. 2nd pitch definitely felt like the crux for me with the thin cracks and slick feet. Overall one of my favorite multi-pitches to date! May 3, 2022

Vicki Schwantes Sacramento, CA

[Hide Comment] Based on Austin's comment below I've updated the rappel beta. May 9, 2022

Austin Donisan San Mateo, CA

[Hide Comment] There are a bunch of comments about using an 80m to rap, but it doesn't have any benefits over a 70m. Either way on the 3rd rap you need to stay high on the arete to hit the "190' to ground" anchor on the Sloan topo and do 5 raps total. May 9, 2022

Erik Sloan Yosemite, CA

[Hide Comment] There is a typo on my topo and it says the 5th pitch is 5.6 but it is 5.9 like it is listed here....... Someone took someone else's shoes from the base? WTF? May 30, 2022

Jennifer Gibbs

[Hide Comment] Did this yesterday, a bloody beautiful route, pitch after pitch of greatness!! Rappel beta is already listed below but saw two parties get caught out despite it, so reiterating… You can rappel with one 70m rope. The first station is a mega stretcher so make sure your rope is a true 70, 68m will not do and tie knots! The second station is on the face/arete and not too difficult to find The third station, DO NOT go left off the arete!! You will see some obvious bolts tucked down in a corner below but you cannot make it to these anchors, even with an 80m, instead, stay on the face, climber’s right and about 25m down you will find them below a roof, they are difficult to see from above. After that the 4th set of anchors are easy to see at the top of an 11a left facing corner system below. Have fun Sep 27, 2022

Jake Squier Yosemite, CA

[Hide Comment] You can now rap central pillar of frenzy with a single 60m rope, 6 easy raps, clean pulls, mostly on the face left of the bircheff. This is a new designated rap route avoiding the need for a 2nd rope and the common stuck rope/twisted rope/rope too short shenanigans many parties experience when rapping from Bircheff/wazoo anchors. First rap is a full 30m, go hard climbers left from the top of the 5th pitch of CPF to the higher and furthest left set of metolius rap hangers with chain. (Don’t go to the other set down and right of these without chain). The rest are all straight down. 2nd rap is to a small stance. 3rd is to a ledge. 4th to another ledge. 5th is a short rap to a small stance and 6th is to the ground. Oct 6, 2022

Michael Merrin Vancouver, BC

[Hide Comment] Great route, amazing climbing. As for the descent... on the 3rd rap using a tag line, my party and the party behind us both got our tag lines snagged in a constriction. Be warned if using a tag line Oct 19, 2022

Nick Ruggero Pacifica, CA

[Hide Comment] Can confirm Jake Squire’s comment although I think you need a 70m. We only had 1-2 m left with our 70 on the first rap. Finding the first station is a bit tricky. Head down skier's right sooner than you think and then down the skier’s right facing corner until you see a pair of hangers with rather long chains as a tiny stance on the arete. The path you go down matters! If you go straight down and then try to swing over your rope gets loosely wrapped around the curvature of the rock and it’s impossible to get over as my follower found out. I had to haul her over with much grunting with the end of the rope I luckily held onto. Rest of the raps were straightforward and pretty much straight down/hard to miss. Oct 30, 2022

Kevin Worrall La Jolla, Ca

[Hide Comment] The earliest comment here is: “George Bell Boulder, CO This route continues past pitch 5, but virtually nobody does this. We once did the next pitch or two, which are pretty nice (one was 10a). Then as I recall the Meyer's topo has a pitch of traversing left, and this looked to be pretty scary so we headed down.” Nobody but Vern Clevenger, George Meyers, George Lowe and I, that I know of! Vern and I did the second ascent, and a thundershower cut loose as I headed off on the last (8th) pitch. George Bell mentions above that it looked pretty scary to him - add pouring rain, rolling thunder and some EB’s and a few of you might get the picture. I led about twenty off the belay to the lone bolt, and then I just had a long traverse left to finish the route. Which “virtually nobody does”. The route was originally rated 5.10, and it is 5.10, above where everybody bails! The 3 pitches above pitch 5 are the more challenging and interesting pitches of the route IMO. The second time I did it, I was slightly amazed I led that pitch in a downpour. The highlight of the second ascent was finding a Chouinard long dong with an offset eye nearly buried in the dirt in the back of chimney on pitch 4. Likely dropped in the 60’s by the man himself on the FA of the Chouinard Pratt right next door. Undriven condition, 7” long, tapering perfectly from 5/16 ths to a knifeblade tip. The initials YC stamped upon it. Gave it to my gf like a dumbass! Apr 8, 2023

that guy named seb Britland   5.9

[Hide Comment] Not sure about those who say you need a 70m for the raps a 60m works with a few absolutely full length rappels(a little scary). I found the first pitch to be very easy for 5.9 in the valley with many established 5.8s being much harder. The roof is also a non issue imo, maybe it's my large hands but I found it to be pretty much perfect hands. The "offwidth" had face holds for your right hands and bomber jams for the left, no offwidth or chimney technique needed. A very good route and not perfectly splitter leading to more interesting climbing. Jun 14, 2023

Hanson Boyd San Francisco, CA

[Hide Comment] FPV Beta for the route: youtube.com/watch?v=Bco9h3W… Aug 23, 2023

Daniel S San Jose   5.9

[Hide Comment] The 5th pitch looks gorgeous from the 4th pitch belay, and climbs as good as it looks. The movement, exposure and length make P5 my favorite pitch on this climb. Before getting on the route, I was most afraid of P5 being a lieback (according to sloan's book) after struggling on P1 of nutcracker. Save for 1 move to get past the pinchy slopy holds 3/4 of the way up the pitch, I did not need to use any liebacking for the rest of the pitch, just good straight in jams in the awesome constrictions that also eat passive pro (if you have a light rack and/or are intimidated by the length of the pitch). Oh, and no one here has mentioned that in the summer, the route goes into the shade around 11AM, so alpine starts won't be necessary to avoid cooking on the wall. Sep 3, 2023

Big Abraham Yosemite Valley

[Hide Comment] first pitch is like 5.8 Sep 19, 2023

Haj Santa Fe, NM

[Hide Comment] Head's up y'all. One of the anchor bolts at the top of the fifth pitch is loose. I noticed that that hanger was loose. When I tried to tighten the nut, the bolt spun with the nut and could be moved around a bit. Sep 25, 2023

Jerome St-Michel Montreal, QUÉBEC

[Hide Comment] The last anchor of the route, to the right of the arete, has a loose stud. And the second to last anchor of Bircheff-Williams has both of it's studs loose in their hole. Nov 5, 2023

Spencer A   5.9

[Hide Comment] You don't need 2 ropes to rapp this route. My partner and I brought 2 and it was a logistical nightmare with them getting tangled. That said, I don't think you can wrap with a single 60 and the party behind us tried to, but got stuck. If I did this again, I would try rappelling with a single 70 or 80! Nov 6, 2023

Diminuitive Darling

[Hide Comment] can rap the whole thing with a 70, first rap is climbers left all the way on the corner of the arete, fat black bolts maybe 10 feet above the rope ends, rest of the raps are obvious. gigachad 2nd and 5th pitches Jun 5, 2024

Cosmic Hotdog California

[Hide Comment] Most pitches felt super sustained, this is one where you want to be a solid 5.9 leader to get on it. As of 7/14 there are 2 stuck cams below the roof which was convenient. 2x #4 was very helpful on P3 for below and then above the roof. Lots of finger sized pieces came in handy as well throughout the climb. We tagged a second 70m rope up with us for the rappels and I'm glad we did, just pull up the tagged rope and stack it neatly before starting each subsequent pitch. Keeps everything neat and orderly with no hassle.. 3 raps from P5 to the ground that way with no worrying. I'd be hesitant to only bring a single 70m, I talked to folks who got stuck that way. Jul 16, 2024

Tim Tilton Bay Area

[Hide Comment] As per Jerome’s comment - studs are still loose as of mid October 2024 Oct 24, 2024

Desmond Cheung

[Hide Comment] Climbed up 4 pitches Nov 2024; we didn't see any loose rock or studs on our ascent; didn't see notable effects from rockfall mentioned. Nov 10, 2024