Cochise Stronghold
Arizona
> Southern Arizona
Access Issue: Regarding Closures for Rockfellow Group and Cochise Dome (WML Dome)
Details
Closure information appears to be in a transition state.
For the latest information, go to this link:
fs.usda.gov/recarea/coronad… Please take note of the request for climbers to avoid disturbing raptors if at all possible.
Self-policing our behavior is MUCH better than an outright ban!
CASA Page on Raptors for more information:
theclimbershome.org/breedin… Douglas Ranger District Tel: 520.364.6816.
Description
Cochise Stronghold is a spectacular landscape of rugged canyons and towering granite domes. While there is something for everyone in this vast area, those seeking traditional, multi pitch climbing will have a special appreciation for climbing in the Dragoon Mountains. Still, Cochise offers more sport climbing than its reputation, or any current guide, suggests (though not enough to put it in the category of a sport climbing destination). There is also a great deal of multi-pitch "sport" climbing although virtually all of these climbs require an occasional gear placement or chickenhead tie-off. Many of these routes on the larger domes are not documented in any guide--though increasingly, they are showing up on this site--and therefore care must be taken not to get off route.
Climbing in Cochise Stronghold is a backcountry experience. The remote setting, coupled with the committing nature of many of the climbs here, require preparation beyond that of roadside cragging on Mt Lemmon. The terrain is rugged and maze-like, and it is generally easier to get lost than to get where you are going. Allow plenty of time for approaches and err on the side of caution.
The amount of rock in Cochise Stronghold is large, and some of the rock is of outstanding quality. Many super classic routes, put up by pioneering climbers since the 1970's, ascend the various spires and domes in the area. Many of the quality crack climbs in Southern Arizona are found here, as are some of the longest routes in this part of the state. Some of these historic routes are difficult, committing, and runout. If you can't climb them this way, go climb something else. With regards to new route development, this area is evolving. If you are considering a new line, ask yourself if you are truly contributing something of quality to what is already there. You may be looking at a line that has already been done! Please ask around before you drill!
This area is of great cultural significance to some people. Treat it with due respect. User impact has increased at the Stronghold in recent years, particularly human waste. Please pack everything out!
Cochise is climbable year round. However, only the most heat-tolerant individuals climb there in the summer, and early. Spring and fall are the best times, but winter offers good climbing weather on most days as well, particularly in sunny exposures.
Current closures for raptor nesting (as of 2011) include Rockfellow Group and Cochise (WML) Dome from March 1 - June 30. Official closure details are posted above, and in the Rockfellow and What's My Line areas on this site. Check with the US Forest Service Douglas Ranger District for changes and current closures.
Getting There
Drive east from Tucson on I-10 towards Benson.
For the east Stronghold, take exit 318 (Dragoon Rd.) off I-10. As you enter the tiny town of Dragoon (after a couple of miles), set your odometer at the post office and go 7.5 miles to a right turn onto Cochise Stronghold Road. Follow this until it ends at a T intersection with Ironwood Road; take a right and head into the Stronghold. The east Stronghold is accessible to any passenger car.
For the west Stronghold, head south from Benson on highway 80 for about 20 miles and turn left on Middlemarch Road a couple of miles before Tombstone (this is less than a mile after the permanent border patrol checkpoint). Follow this road for 10 miles to a left hand turn onto forest road 687 (just after a cattle guard). For Sheepshead, take the first right after about 1/2 mile. For the west Stronghold crags (as well as alternate access to the Rockfellows), follow the road for 30 to 45 minutes to its end in west Stronghold canyon. Some crags, such as Isle of Ewe, Sweet Rock, and Warpath Dome, are accessible from various points along this road. he west Stronghold roads are a bit rougher and also require 10 initial miles of washboard road to access. Still, passenger cars show up all the time at Sheepshead and Isle of Ewe areas. Driving a passenger car all the way to the end of forest road 687 is another matter and you will want to be skilled and/or not care especially about your car.
Also of note is that the fastest way to get from the east to the west and southwest areas is via Middlemarch Road rather than the highway, if you don't mind a bumpy dirt road for fifty minutes.
Camping
Access to free camping spots can be rougher, particularly the road to Batline Dome, but there is plenty of camping accessible to any car. On the east side, camping can be found after crossing the cattle guard (on Ironwood Road) with the large forest service sign. An immediate right leads to Batline Dome and the Wasteland area trailhead, with camping at both spots. The next right, a quarter mile or so on, leads to a maze of road with extensive free camping. There is also pay camping with more amenities at the end of the road into the east Stronghold.
On the west side, there is camping at the Sheepshead trailhead, and all along forest road 687, which eventually leads all the way in to the West Stronghold (parking for Whale Dome, Westworld, etc.). The sites near Sheepshead and Isle of Ewe are ideal for larger groups; the sites at the end of 687 are mostly smaller.
Guidebooks
Bob Kerry's Backcountry Rock Climbing in Southern Arizona has an extensive Cochise section. It's out of print, but accessible in its entirety on-line (
climbaz.com/Backcountry/bac… ). The listed routes are a drop in the bucket of the actual number of routes in the Stronghold. "Rock Climbing Arizona" and "Weekend Rock Arizona" also have some Cochise crags but are not as extensive as Kerry's guide and are really only worth getting if you'll be hitting several areas in Arizona. Other local guides/topos that may cover newer routes include Geir Hundal's (
toofasttopos.com) and Tanya Bok's (
cochiseclimbing.com).
![A chickenhead belay in the Stronghold]()
[Hide Photo] A chickenhead belay in the Stronghold
![Bolting routes in Cochise is generally avoided, not because of any lack of possible lines, but because of ethics. Here is a portion of a 100-200 foot wall full of plates and gator skin. The extremely featured face is viewed from the End Pinnacle summit. Photo taken by Kelly Hartman.]()
[Hide Photo] Bolting routes in Cochise is generally avoided, not because of any lack of possible lines, but because of ethics. Here is a portion of a 100-200 foot wall full of plates and gator skin. The extre…
![Mischievous shadows of Cracker Jack]()
[Hide Photo] Mischievous shadows of Cracker Jack
![Sunset over the Whetstone Mountains as viewed from the west side of Cochise Stronghold]()
[Hide Photo] Sunset over the Whetstone Mountains as viewed from the west side of Cochise Stronghold
![Cochise Stronghold West]()
[Hide Photo] Cochise Stronghold West
![Looking back towards Tombstone from the area near Isle of You. We were battling this all weekend. I thought Arizona was supposed to be arid.]()
[Hide Photo] Looking back towards Tombstone from the area near Isle of You. We were battling this all weekend. I thought Arizona was supposed to be arid.
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Phoenix, AZ
Tucson
As far as I know the few very old bolts on the north face route on Leviathon have not been replaced. But that said it's stil a great back country route worth the approach.
I would suggest, in March, that you start hiking well before first light on the trail which should deposit you at the drainage to the dome at sun up.
We did this route in April in twelve hours car to car. We, through the luck of the gods, dialed the approach in 2 hours. Add more time if you botch it. Kerrys guide is good if you pay attention.
Bring a head lamp, days are short in March!!
The approach sucks so fast and light is much better than heavy and slow, with an overnight. IMO. Dec 21, 2007
Colorado megalopolis
I'm assuming the east Stronghold road would be a better alternative but having never been to either, I just don't know--any advice would be appreciated! Thanks! Nov 25, 2008
PAYSON
Los Alamos, NM
Edit:
OK, we found the information on the Coronado National Forest site fs.fed.us/r3/coronado/fores… for the Cochise campground. No water. Feb 13, 2009
Albuquerque, NM
Saint Croix Falls, WI
Tucson
Boulder, CO
Reading, VT
Portland, OR
Glendale, Az
Portland, OR
Tucson, Arizona
Williston, ND
Seattle, WA
Tucson, AZ
Edina, MN
Thanks!
Aaron
e-mail
aaronvoreis@gmail.com
or text 612+759+1876 Feb 23, 2012
Sierra Vista, AZ
phoenix az
Tucson
Good luck. Apr 26, 2012
phoenix az
Sierra Vista, AZ
phoenix az
Sierra Vista, AZ
Hummingbird Ranch Vacation House Pearce AZ 85625
10 Min from the Cochise Stronghold off Rt 191 in Pearce.
2BR 2 Bath home fully furnished for a wonderful mountain climbing vacation.
To Book-
hummingbirdranch@comcast.net
410-679-7918
$600.00 per Week or 1800.00 per Month.
Summer special-$575.00 Week or $1650.00 Month. 2 Couples Max. Apr 4, 2013
Littleton, CO
Sierra Vista, AZ
Dan I leave in Sierra Vista and Cochise is basically my second home. You can contact me if you want my email is mangual43@gmail.com Oct 10, 2013
Austin, TX
goo.gl/maps/F6VY3
long URL: maps.google.com/maps/ms?msi…
Kudos go out to everyone who put in so much great beta for SW AZ on MP!! Dec 17, 2013
Littleton, CO
Tucson, AZ
See attached website: fs.usda.gov/recarea/coronad…
map: fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO… Mar 24, 2015
Tucson/DMR
Greenfield, MA
Also, just out of curiosity, is there any cell phone reception in the park?
Thanks! Jan 4, 2016
Tucson, Arizona
Thx Mar 28, 2016
Bern, CH
Tucson, AZ
Bern, CH
COCHISE STRONGHOLD: Rock Climbing on the West Side Guidebook cochiseclimbing.com Jan 7, 2017
New York, NY
Paul
Send me PM Sep 14, 2017
Wa
Knoxville, TN
Tempe, Arizona
Email-- Z.EBraunstein AT gmail
Thanks!
Zack Feb 26, 2018
az / pa
cochiseclimbing.com/ Nov 13, 2018
On another note, one can get water for 25 cents/gallon in the town of Sunsites, Pearce - about 15 min from Cochise Stronghold Campground. For groceries, go to Produce Wagon, also in Sunsites. They have everything you need. For camp fuel and other stuff, the dollar general is fine.
Also, really good coffee and food at Talking Irons Coffee Saloon, also in Sunsites. It looks like a little green house, just to the right of the post office. They make their own ice cream, and have amazing breakfasts and sandwiches and baked goods. Seriously wish I had this place to go to back in Toronto. The owners (I think their names are Sarah and Thomas) are originally from San Francisco, and know good food and coffee. May 28, 2019
Cornwall, NY
Tempe, AZ
The comment about the border patrol checkpoint on the way out of the wast side still checks out. They didn't hassle us, but they might hassle you. Dec 10, 2020
Laramie, WY
Flagstaff, Az
Milwaukee, WI
Tucson, AZ
The routes we climbed were:
East Side: Beeline, Abracadaver, Days of Future Past, The Vortex, and What’s My Line.
West Side: Dreamscape Buttress, Amplified Gravity, Moby Dick, Dihedral to Dike, and Four Course Meal.
I'm now thinking about going for a big link-up on the Sheepshead next. If anyone’s interested, shoot me a DM! Nov 29, 2024