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Corrugation Corner
5.7,
Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches,
Avg: 3.9 from 1,340
votes
FA: K. Edsburg et al., 1960's
California
> Lake Tahoe
> Highway 50 Corr…
> Lover's Leap
> Main Formation
> Main Wall
Access Issue: 2023 Raptor Closure at Lover's Leap
Details
A varied four-pitch climb that goes to the highest point on the Leap. Follows the huge right facing corner just to the right of Traveler's Buttress. First pitch is in the corner. The second pitch sneaks out on the left face leading to the base of a chimney. The third pitch climbs the chimney, traverses 5.7 past a fixed piton, and then hops on a beautiful exposed arete. The fourth pitch is basic and can be avoided with a 60m rope.
[Hide Photo] Corrugation Corner, as seen from the approach trail.
[Hide Photo] Beta for people like myself who are new to route finding. P1: 140 feet. Traverse right after bulge at top to belay ledge P2: 130 feet: Climb up 20-30 feet, then traverse out left to arete. Bea…
[Hide Photo] A photo of the ever so present dikes covering the walls at Lover's leap. These dikes are what give Lovers Leap its major characteristic and add the very unique climbing possibilities
[Hide Photo] Brett negotiating the second pitch of corrugation corner. 5.7 doesn't get much more fun than this!
[Hide Photo] Route tracing: From this angle p2 belay is estimated. The belay is just prior to a short chimney.
[Hide Photo] The beached whale move right before the second belay
[Hide Comment] I havent done many climbs at Lover's Leap, but this was definetely my favorite! There is a great variety of moves and rock type, coupled with fun exposure. We were not even that early (maybe 8) in mid august, and had no wait, and finished the climb well within the time when it is still cool and comfortable. Dont let posts about crowds stop you from this great climb.
Aug 20, 2009
[Hide Comment] Pitch 1: Follow the crack. Easy, well protected, sustained 5.6 with one semi-bouldery cruxy move on it. Exit the crack to the left past the rough then traverse to the right to an open belay spot.
Pitch 2: Beautiful exposed arete! Savor it! Beached whale move onto the belay station was "interesting" heh. I tried to do it with a bit of grace, and failed miserably, heh.
Pitch 3: Very easy chimney followed by a very scary airy traverse! IMO the traverse was the crux of the entire climb.
All-in-all a magnificent very stout 5.7. Perhaps one of the best 5.7's you'll ever do.
Jun 9, 2010
[Hide Comment] I expected this route to be the highlight of our long weekend at (and my first visit to) the Leap.
I finished the route knowing it was one of the very best climbs I've ever done. If you're not grinning ear to ear on this thing from start to finish, you may as well hang it up. There aren't enough superlatives to describe how awesome this climb is. Suffice it to say that every pitch is 5-stars. Nearly every move on every pitch is five-stars for that matter.
On a beautiful 70 degree fall weekday, we had a party ahead of us and nobody behind us, and we didn't even get up early.
We thought we'd outsmart the crowds by doing Corrugation first, then coming back down to do Surrealistic Pillar. It worked (we didn't wait a second for anyone) but Surrealistic Pillar was anticlimactic after the Corner, so I wouldn't recommend that strategy, even if it means waiting in line for the Corner later.
Make the trip to the Leap if only to do this route.
Oct 16, 2011
-3 pitches, not 4. -Near the top of the first pitch make sure to go right on a slanting crack. -The belly flop at the end of the 2nd pitch is easy if you use a nice notch for the left foot. -The ring piton for the 3rd pitch traverse is shit, jug haul after the traverse to the top.
Aug 21, 2012
[Hide Comment] Has anyone intentionally or unintentionally done the 5.8 P3 variation listed in the super-topo guide. Instead of traversing right at the piton after escaping the chimney. I accidentally continued straight up the crack after accidentally leaving the guidebook in the car. Super-topo calls it "a more sparsely protected variation", but I think it was still G/PG. It's a mix of face holds, hand jams and off-width feet. Definitely keeps your attention. My only complaint is that I lost my C4 #2 when it came unclipped from my harness while I was scumming my right hip up the outside of an off-width section of the crack.
Aug 22, 2012
[Hide Comment] I was determined to not do the beached whale move...I failed miserably. It must be done.
The traverse out of the chimney (start of 3rd pitch) was the most terrifying to me. Maybe it's b/c by the time you're traversing you're nearly 500-600ft up.
Next time, I'll link it up with Surrealistic Pillar though! Great introduction and 1st climb at the Leap though! I was definitely spoiled.
Jul 16, 2013
[Hide Comment] As all the other posts have said, this is a really great climb!
For anyone who has been reading the Supertopo beta on this climb don't be discouraged. Words like "terrifying" and "most intimidating 5.7 anywhere" are way off base in my opinion. If you are a confident 5.7/5.8 trad climber this is a must do. Well protected jug fest for most of the way with a few small run outs on reasonable 5.7 terrain. Get out there and climb this classic!
Jul 2, 2014
[Hide Comment] Amazing route with easy climbing and great gear. Gobbles nuts up. Edit: First time I did this several years ago P2 tested my head game. It was fun to go back and cruze it with more experience. Also having a few sub 0.3 cams helped a lot. I couldn't get much pro in the first time, but having some 0.2 and 0.1's made it really easy to protect. For the start of P3 there was a party on the ledge fishing for a phone so I went straight up and pulled the roof instead of doing the beached whale and chimney (5.9ish). Fun little variation that keeps the rope more inline.
Sep 28, 2015
[Hide Comment] David and Jahn from New Zealand who climbed on 8/28/2016 - if you happen to stop by this page, message me so I can send you your photo!
As for pitch 2, a #0.1 X4 fit in a tiny crack horizontally after the piton. Pitch 3, was able to protect after the chimney with a #3 cam extended with a double length sling.
Aug 29, 2016
[Hide Comment] I was at the top of pitch 2, chimneying up when my aging harness decided that my gear loop shouldn't be a loop anymore... I watched as 2 offset x4s (0.1/0.2), a yellow Metolius, and a BD #2 slid down the chimney into the abyss. If anyone happens to find these, could you email me? I would love to pay you to give them back to me.
Jun 5, 2017
[Hide Comment] Lost a .3 X4 on the 3rd pitch on Saturday, June 24 due some thoughtless overcamming. My partner talked to the party behind us to ask them to give the cam a shot-- if you are them and you got it out, please DM me and I'll spot you a beer or three for your decamming troubles (and the .3). Thanks!
Great route! The lines are long on the weekend, but the rock quality and the exposure are world class.
Jun 28, 2017
[Hide Comment] Fantastic climb! Linked this after Surrealistic Pillar to avoid the hike, wouldn't have done it any other way. Climbed it in 3 pitches, running out the top. The final mantel at the top was slightly precarious, the toughest move of the runout but there's miscellaneous places for slings. Bring some long cord or small cams for the top anchor.
"Skipped" the beach whale move by traversing left along the ledge via a dyke and performing a more standard mantel 6 feet over.
The piton can be backed up with a perfect DMM size 2 nut. I didn't know to traverse right and did the more direct variation. Pro wasn't amazing so it felt a bit spicy, would call it maybe 5.8 PG. Still, even off route, this line deserved all 4 stars! Get on it!
Aug 26, 2017
[Hide Comment] I enjoy making the second belay in the chimney (nice and shaded) it makes a comfortable hanging belay, room for three. Then travers out to the exposed arête turn the corner to the best exposure in the area bar none! The old pins can all be backed up with nuts or small tcu's. Bring long runners/slings to stop the rope drag. Use a 70 mil rope if you are worried about pitch length at the Leap.
You will find a 70 mil rope, full length runner/slings, Cordelette and daisy Chain (careful not to cross clip) will all be very useful at most of the belays.at the Leap. Pro to 2 or 3 with some small TCU's. Wind can be a problem on this route make sure you and your partners have your rope signals down.
Jul 17, 2018
[Hide Comment] Did CC over Labor Day weekend with my son (14 years old). Such a classic climb! Couple beta items. In addition to clipping the piton for the beached whale move, which I almost missed as it was further up and to the right than I expected, there's a small upward crack underneath a tiny roof above the ledge. Fits a small cam (0.4 or 0.5 BD). Also, as someone else mentioned here, you can avoid the awkwardness of the beached whale move by using a small ledge for your feet out to the left and moving left to the front of the ledge. You still have to mantle, but it's not nearly as awkward. Lastly, when coming around the corner after the chimney on P3, you can clip the bent piton, and also get an offset micro stopper (#6) in the crack just above the piton for better protection. I wouldn't trust that manky old bent piton to hold body weight. There are many, great, classic climbs at The Leap, but Corrugation Corner has to be on everyone's list.
Sep 11, 2018
[Hide Comment] Only ended up doing the first pitch due to a jam up of the parties above. Sat at the top of pitch 1 for ~ 2 hours before bailing along with the group right behind us due to the wait, and the coming sunset. Will definitely need to make our way back here and do the whole route sometime!
Dean and Kristina from Mammoth, if you're reading this, we ended up saving the gear, shoot me a message and I'll get it back to you.
Sep 23, 2018
[Hide Comment] Hopped on this climb on a Tuesday at around 10AM. No wait, and no parties behind us.
The climb was perfect, with P2 and P3 providing some of the best variety of climbing I've experienced. I placed many, many nuts and tricams during this climb.
I did leave a nut (wild country friend) on P3 somewhere near the start of the jug haul, so if you find it...I guess it's yours!
Sep 26, 2018
[Hide Comment] Got stuck behind a very slow party on a Wednesday! The 3rd pitch eats long slings. Bring extra. You can avoid the beached whale move by not clipping the pin, but instead place a yellow metolius (#2) into a small vertical crack underneath the left corner of the beached-whale shelf, then reach up to the edge of the whale-shelf with both hands, high step left into the shallow horizontal crack under the shelf and mantle up.
Oct 18, 2018
[Hide Comment] Stunning 3 pitches of moderate climbing. The first pitch, although slightly easier then the others, is beautiful stemming and really warms you up for the more intimidating climbing above. Pitch 2 is the one. Gorgeous exposure on a steep arete with an interesting / slightly award finish. Save some bigger gear for the 2nd belay (being English I loved being able to use my big hexes). Pitch 3 starts with a fairly straight forward chimney, then an exposed move out to the face prior to a traverse. You can backup a fixed pin with a small nut. The traverse itself felt pretty straight forward - just look at the 2 giant horizontal dikes that run all the way to the corner. I found the next few moves up the corner to be more technical than the traverse, although well protected. After this, dike hike to the top and enjoy some easy run out terrain. I could climb this every day of the week!
May 16, 2019
[Hide Comment] With all the discussion about the beached whale, I'm surprised no one mentioned: you can basically toprope it by slinging a bomber chockstone in the crack between the belay ledge and the wall. With the aforementioned horizontal .4 and that chockstone, I felt super secure to flail onto the ledge. (then back-clean both to reduce rope drag when belaying 2nd)
Also: supertopo says there's an optional 3rd belay "if bad rope drag". it's true that the only reason to belay there is for rope drag. If you're low on gear, it's actually better to continue to the top, where your anchor will be a boulder. The optional 4th pitch is so easy (5.2, not 5.6) that it barely takes or needs any gear regardless.
Jun 2, 2021
[Hide Comment] Perhaps the best and most memorable 5.7 route I have climbed to this point, especially when linked with Surrealistic Pillar. A few points, if you want to avoid the beached whale, you can just transition left onto the face just before the ledge and climb some 5.7 face/mantle instead. If you find a huge line waiting at the first belay spot (which is common), you can set up a belay on the big ledge before the right traverse up to the first belay. From there, you climb up and left over to the second belay of Traveler's Buttress which is usually empty. This also goes at about 5.7 and allows you to climb the cool 3rd pitch arete of Traveler's while dodging the crowds.
Jul 2, 2021
[Hide Comment] Thought this was a really great 5.7 multipitch route as the other comments have said. I will just mention to be careful on the approach to this climb. If you are coming from the lower buttress you will want to stay up high on the approach trail. Don't be suckered into any of the offshoot trails which lead down to the base of Travellers buttress like my group did. Ended up wasting a lot of time and energy.
Jul 11, 2021
[Hide Comment] Traversing to the arrete on the second pitch is awesome! But after having done it many times, we decided to continue straight up the dihedral. Probably 5.8.
May 18, 2022
[Hide Comment] One of the most engaging climbs I've ever done. Certainly stout for 5.7 from a mental perspective. Top notch rock quality. Great linkup with Surrealistic Pillar. Don't skip this regardless of the wait, its so worth it.
May 29, 2024
[Hide Comment] The chimney itself is quite straightforward, and the traverse to the piton is manageable. However, any mistake could result in a ground fall to the belay station. Therefore, it makes me more comfortable placed a #4 cam atof the chimney, clipped the piton, and back clean the #4 to avoid rope drag.
Jun 30, 2024
[Hide Comment] Done as a link up with Surrealistic Pillar. A great climb! Ended up slightly off route at the last pitch: I traversed left 15/20 feet too early, you need to wait till the end of the crack basically. I had to put up an intermediate anchor on a nice ledge because the rope drag was becoming annoying.
Jul 2, 2024
[Hide Comment] P1: 125ft, up the corner and to the right up the ramp. Obvious crack for an easy 3piece anchor. P2: 110ft, up to the first piton then around the left arete to the cave. Small gear for anchor placements. I used a BD 0.4 waaaaaaaay way up high on the ledge, then a black totem partway up and yellow totem off to the right (I wasn't a huge fan of this anchor but I was having difficulty finding placements). - if you opt for the beach whale move to get into the cave, clip the fixed gear at eye level outside of and to the right of the cave. - if you opt for the alternative, go left onto the face and mantle into the cave. There is a small spot to fit a 0.2 or 0.3 to protect the mantle. P3: 180ft, up the cave, across the traverse, up up and away. Tree anchor.
Aug 21, 2024
[Hide Comment] Best 5.7 route I've ever climbed. If you're breaking into the grade this would be somewhat scary to do, but all the moves are there.
Building an anchor on top of pitch 2 requires small gear if you want to be standing in a comfortable stance. My partner told me some people build an anchor around ankle and foot height but that would require sitting in an awkward position. I use a 0.2 yellow X4 and a green and red C3 (i think that's around a .3 and .4 size) for my anchor. I uploaded a photo of pitch 2 belay area above
Oct 6, 2024
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Calgary, Alberta
Squamish, BC
Seattle, WA
Pitch 2: Beautiful exposed arete! Savor it! Beached whale move onto the belay station was "interesting" heh. I tried to do it with a bit of grace, and failed miserably, heh.
Pitch 3: Very easy chimney followed by a very scary airy traverse! IMO the traverse was the crux of the entire climb.
All-in-all a magnificent very stout 5.7. Perhaps one of the best 5.7's you'll ever do. Jun 9, 2010
the couch
I finished the route knowing it was one of the very best climbs I've ever done. If you're not grinning ear to ear on this thing from start to finish, you may as well hang it up. There aren't enough superlatives to describe how awesome this climb is. Suffice it to say that every pitch is 5-stars. Nearly every move on every pitch is five-stars for that matter.
On a beautiful 70 degree fall weekday, we had a party ahead of us and nobody behind us, and we didn't even get up early.
We thought we'd outsmart the crowds by doing Corrugation first, then coming back down to do Surrealistic Pillar. It worked (we didn't wait a second for anyone) but Surrealistic Pillar was anticlimactic after the Corner, so I wouldn't recommend that strategy, even if it means waiting in line for the Corner later.
Make the trip to the Leap if only to do this route. Oct 16, 2011
-3 pitches, not 4.
-Near the top of the first pitch make sure to go right on a slanting crack.
-The belly flop at the end of the 2nd pitch is easy if you use a nice notch for the left foot.
-The ring piton for the 3rd pitch traverse is shit, jug haul after the traverse to the top. Aug 21, 2012
Paris, France
Denver, CO
The traverse out of the chimney (start of 3rd pitch) was the most terrifying to me. Maybe it's b/c by the time you're traversing you're nearly 500-600ft up.
Next time, I'll link it up with Surrealistic Pillar though! Great introduction and 1st climb at the Leap though! I was definitely spoiled. Jul 16, 2013
For anyone who has been reading the Supertopo beta on this climb don't be discouraged. Words like "terrifying" and "most intimidating 5.7 anywhere" are way off base in my opinion. If you are a confident 5.7/5.8 trad climber this is a must do. Well protected jug fest for most of the way with a few small run outs on reasonable 5.7 terrain. Get out there and climb this classic! Jul 2, 2014
As for pitch 2, a #0.1 X4 fit in a tiny crack horizontally after the piton. Pitch 3, was able to protect after the chimney with a #3 cam extended with a double length sling. Aug 29, 2016
San Francisco, CA
Great route! The lines are long on the weekend, but the rock quality and the exposure are world class. Jun 28, 2017
Sacramento, CA
"Skipped" the beach whale move by traversing left along the ledge via a dyke and performing a more standard mantel 6 feet over.
The piton can be backed up with a perfect DMM size 2 nut.
I didn't know to traverse right and did the more direct variation. Pro wasn't amazing so it felt a bit spicy, would call it maybe 5.8 PG. Still, even off route, this line deserved all 4 stars! Get on it! Aug 26, 2017
Reno NV
You will find a 70 mil rope, full length runner/slings, Cordelette and daisy Chain (careful not to cross clip) will all be very useful at most of the belays.at the Leap. Pro to 2 or 3 with some small TCU's. Wind can be a problem on this route make sure you and your partners have your rope signals down. Jul 17, 2018
Dean and Kristina from Mammoth, if you're reading this, we ended up saving the gear, shoot me a message and I'll get it back to you. Sep 23, 2018
San Francisco
The climb was perfect, with P2 and P3 providing some of the best variety of climbing I've experienced. I placed many, many nuts and tricams during this climb.
I did leave a nut (wild country friend) on P3 somewhere near the start of the jug haul, so if you find it...I guess it's yours! Sep 26, 2018
Lafayette
You can avoid the beached whale move by not clipping the pin, but instead place a yellow metolius (#2) into a small vertical crack underneath the left corner of the beached-whale shelf, then reach up to the edge of the whale-shelf with both hands, high step left into the shallow horizontal crack under the shelf and mantle up. Oct 18, 2018
San Francisco
Boulder, CO
Also: supertopo says there's an optional 3rd belay "if bad rope drag". it's true that the only reason to belay there is for rope drag. If you're low on gear, it's actually better to continue to the top, where your anchor will be a boulder. The optional 4th pitch is so easy (5.2, not 5.6) that it barely takes or needs any gear regardless. Jun 2, 2021
Mountain View, CA
Santa Rosa, CA
Portland, OR
youtu.be/2JSAxhUqAUE Aug 1, 2023
Los Angeles, CA
P2: 110ft, up to the first piton then around the left arete to the cave. Small gear for anchor placements. I used a BD 0.4 waaaaaaaay way up high on the ledge, then a black totem partway up and yellow totem off to the right (I wasn't a huge fan of this anchor but I was having difficulty finding placements).
- if you opt for the beach whale move to get into the cave, clip the fixed gear at eye level outside of and to the right of the cave.
- if you opt for the alternative, go left onto the face and mantle into the cave. There is a small spot to fit a 0.2 or 0.3 to protect the mantle.
P3: 180ft, up the cave, across the traverse, up up and away. Tree anchor. Aug 21, 2024
San Diego, Ca
Building an anchor on top of pitch 2 requires small gear if you want to be standing in a comfortable stance. My partner told me some people build an anchor around ankle and foot height but that would require sitting in an awkward position. I use a 0.2 yellow X4 and a green and red C3 (i think that's around a .3 and .4 size) for my anchor. I uploaded a photo of pitch 2 belay area above Oct 6, 2024