Type: | Trad, 700 ft (212 m), 4 pitches |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 9,716 total · 34/month |
Shared By: | Matt Bauman on Apr 30, 2001 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Per Dustin Bergman, Eldorado Canyon State Park Officer: the upper third of the West Redgarden trail and Rewritten descent trail suffered significant damage during that storm that came through a few weeks ago. Please consider choosing alternates routes lower on the trail.
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
First, you can climb the first pitch of Rewritten (5.7), The Great Zot (5.8+), or West Chimney (5.6).
Climb up and right for an easy traverse pitch to the large ledge and belay at tree or right under crack systems.
Start as for Icarus but at the double dihedral intersection, go left up the large corner system. Climb this easily and when it ends a fun hand and finger crack cruised up the face for 30 more feet to a large tree on the start of a messy ledge/ramp system. This is a 200+ foot pitch so some easy simul-climbing will need to be done.
The next pitch goes straight up cracks to the summit, or you can do what we did which is go right and follow the easy ledge/ramp to where it intersects the sharp arete finish to The Yellow Spur and Icarus. Head straight up this exposed arete with some runout to the top.
Descend by straddling the sharp arete that leads down to the Dirty Deed saddle, then downclimb the east slab decent or rappel. Fun cruiser climb that we did for a summit sunset. Had to hurry down the east slabs to beat the dark.
Climb up and right for an easy traverse pitch to the large ledge and belay at tree or right under crack systems.
Start as for Icarus but at the double dihedral intersection, go left up the large corner system. Climb this easily and when it ends a fun hand and finger crack cruised up the face for 30 more feet to a large tree on the start of a messy ledge/ramp system. This is a 200+ foot pitch so some easy simul-climbing will need to be done.
The next pitch goes straight up cracks to the summit, or you can do what we did which is go right and follow the easy ledge/ramp to where it intersects the sharp arete finish to The Yellow Spur and Icarus. Head straight up this exposed arete with some runout to the top.
Descend by straddling the sharp arete that leads down to the Dirty Deed saddle, then downclimb the east slab decent or rappel. Fun cruiser climb that we did for a summit sunset. Had to hurry down the east slabs to beat the dark.
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