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Dances with Beagles
5.11+ YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British R
Avg: 2 from 1
vote
Routes in Eagle Wall
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Dances with Beagles T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Eagle Dance T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A0+ |
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Kaleidoscope Cracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Levitation 29 T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Mountain Beast T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Rainbow Buttress T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ringtail T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Todd Swain and Jeff Rhodes, 1993 |
| Page Views: | 2,061 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Josh Janes on Mar 16, 2005 · Updates |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Dances with Beagles is a three-pitch line that heads up the left side of the Eagle Wall approximately 200' left of Eagle Dance. The climbing is fairly good but is detracted from by a lot of crumbling holds and some bad bolts.
Begin about 30' left of a two-tiered pillar/150' left of the big pillar that marks the start of Eagle Dance. You should be able to spot a thin seam protected by two bolts, and if you look carefully, a two bolt anchor above.
P1: Climb up the seam and face above for 120'. Despite lots of wire placements, a fairly serious lead. 5.9+.
P2: This is the great pitch of the climb. Step off the belay to the right and climb the left-leaning finger crack that splits the varnished, sheer face above. The crux comes at the end of the crack with decent pro at your feet. A no-hands rests follows before a secondary crux pulling the little rooflet. There is a bolt here, but the hanger is cracked, above this expect very little gear on the way up to a two bolt anchor. 5.11+ 130'.
P3: Leave the wires behind, and grab the draws for 160' of face climbing past 18 bolts. Almost every other hold seems capable of breaking, and since almost every other bolt has a cracked hanger, they may or may not stop you in the event of a fall. There is one nice new bolt protecting the crux, a STEEP, fun sequence up the headwall. Sustained 5.11 climbing.
Overall, my partner and I agreed that the route is worthwhile for the awesome second pitch and the climbing up to and through the headwall on the third pitch, but the 100+ feet of bad bolts and rock after that was a serious detractor. This climb would be fun to round out your day after Levitation (by the way, despite ratings in the book, this is definately harder), but not as a destination in and of itself.
Begin about 30' left of a two-tiered pillar/150' left of the big pillar that marks the start of Eagle Dance. You should be able to spot a thin seam protected by two bolts, and if you look carefully, a two bolt anchor above.
P1: Climb up the seam and face above for 120'. Despite lots of wire placements, a fairly serious lead. 5.9+.
P2: This is the great pitch of the climb. Step off the belay to the right and climb the left-leaning finger crack that splits the varnished, sheer face above. The crux comes at the end of the crack with decent pro at your feet. A no-hands rests follows before a secondary crux pulling the little rooflet. There is a bolt here, but the hanger is cracked, above this expect very little gear on the way up to a two bolt anchor. 5.11+ 130'.
P3: Leave the wires behind, and grab the draws for 160' of face climbing past 18 bolts. Almost every other hold seems capable of breaking, and since almost every other bolt has a cracked hanger, they may or may not stop you in the event of a fall. There is one nice new bolt protecting the crux, a STEEP, fun sequence up the headwall. Sustained 5.11 climbing.
Overall, my partner and I agreed that the route is worthwhile for the awesome second pitch and the climbing up to and through the headwall on the third pitch, but the 100+ feet of bad bolts and rock after that was a serious detractor. This climb would be fun to round out your day after Levitation (by the way, despite ratings in the book, this is definately harder), but not as a destination in and of itself.
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