All Locations > Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > (10) Pine Creek… > Mescalito > Dark Shadows Wall

Dark Shadows (Full)

Name: Dark Shadows (Full)
Rating: 3.7

5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British

Routes in Dark Shadows Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Chasing Shadows T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Dark Shadows T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Dark Shadows (Full) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Dream Safari (5.10 or 5.11) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R
	Edge Dressing T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Excellent Adventure T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
	Extra Credit T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Heart of Darkness T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
	Lost Voices T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Negro Blanco T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
	Parental Guidance T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
	Peyote Power T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Risky Business T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
	Sandstone Sandwich T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
	Short Circuit T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Slot Machine T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Order Wrong? Sort Routes

Type:	Trad, 1000 ft (303 m), 10 pitches
FA:	John Martinet and Nick Nordblom, 1979
Page Views:	45,972 total · 368/month
Shared By:	J tot on Oct 19, 2014 · Updates
Admins:	Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen Page Updates (admin only)

You & This Route

327 Opinions

Your To-Do List: ·

Your Star Rating:
Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change

Your Ticks:Add New Tick

-none-

Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).

Description

Climb the first 4 pitches of the normal "Dark Shadows" build your last belay at the furthest right of the three anchors.

P5) Clip a bolt and head up. Pull an easy roof/bulge and follow the crack up and left. Some squeeze chimney (or face climbing) will put you on a small detached tower with two glue-in bolts.

P6) Path of least resistance up the chimney behind the tower. After passing a short roof on its right (~50' from belay) head up and left eventually finding one new and one old bolt on low angle face to belay off of. (can be backed up with thin gear).

P7) follow the crack up and slightly right, placing thin gear. Build a belay on the varnished bench 20'-30' below an obvious roof. Gear takes big nuts and ~1" size cams (or that was just what I had).

P8/9) Climb off the ledge and pass the roof on its right. Head up and easy flaring hand crack and hit a series of bushy ledges. (potentially belay here with a 60M). Launch off of these ledges up some steep (for the grade) cracks for another 30'-40' and belay on a comfy varnished ledge with a two bolt anchors. ONLY ONE HAS A HANGER (Nov 2024)!

P9/10) Climb the right facing dihedral and when it rounds off to the left, go straight up the varnished face and into the cracked roof above. Massive jugs make pulling this roof consistent for the grade. Cruise up low angle flaring hand crack for many more feet to find yourself at a well cairned massive ledge. Easiest belay is off one of the big trees. Might be tight with a 60M.

Location

Start the normal first four pitches of Dark Shadows and keep going.

Finish on a big ledge. With cairns. To get down you still have several hundred feet of easy 5th free soloing or adventurous/wandering/easy leading to the summit. Head a little up and a bit left to a left facing dihedral hand crack with a cairn (Oct. 2014) to start the last ascent to the summit.

Descent (Updated Sept 2022):

The descent options have evolved (and continue to evolve). Good information in the comments (better than I could post here). If anyone has a comprehensive description for North and/or south, DM me.