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Days of Future Passed
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British PG13
Avg: 3.4 from 138
votes
Routes in End Pinnacle
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All's Well That Ends Well S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Be All, End All T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Cap'm Pissgums T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Days of Future Passed T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Endgame T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Great Gig in the Sky T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Jimmywacky T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Journey from Darkness T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Magnus Veritas T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Poetry in Motion T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Son of Gums T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Uncarved Block T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Way the World Ends, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C1 |
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Welcome to the Machine T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Steve Grossman, Dave Baker, Rich Thompson 1973 |
| Page Views: | 19,097 total · 83/month |
| Shared By: | John Peterson on Feb 4, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Access Issue: Read this Access Note!
Details
For the latest information, go to this link: fs.usda.gov/recarea/coronad…
Please take note of the request for climbers to avoid disturbing raptors if at all possible.
Self-policing our behavior is MUCH better than an outright ban!
CASA Page on Raptors for more information: theclimbershome.org/breedin…
Douglas Ranger District Tel: 520.364.6816.
Description
Another Rockfellow classic. This is located on End Pinnacle on the west side of the area. Approach by skirting around the formation to the right from the approach. The climb is the first crack to the left of the large chimney separating End Pinnacle from the rest of the formation.
Pitch 1: Start up a groove to the left of the chimney, clip a bolt, and then either pendulum over to the main crack or free climb at 5.10. Once in the main crack, chimney up, and then use chickenheads to reach a bolted belay. The rest of the route is 5.8+ or so. The chimney is fairly secure but not really protectable - you might feel this is a bit R-rated. (140', 5.8 A0 or 5.10b if free climbed)
Pitch 2: Follow an excellent fist sized crack up until it ends at a hanging belay stance (120', 5.8+)
Pitch 3: Step directly left to a chicken head tie off, head up and right past three bolts to a welcome ledge (first non-hanging belay!). No other gear on this pitch (100', 5.8+R)
Pitch 4: Up past a couple of bolts to the summit. The start is pretty runout to the first bolt 25' up.
Descent: Rappel Magnus Veritas (two ropes)
Alternatively: Start from a pine tree at the east side of the summit, overlooking the fissure separating EP from the main dome. Two double rope raps take you into the big chimney. You need to go up through a hole to find the last rap station that takes you to the bottom on the side opposite the climb. This is all pretty hazy for me so be careful!
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