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Desert Song
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British R
Avg: 3.4 from 25
votes
Routes in The Sentinel - West Face
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Butt Buttress, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Centipede, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Chameleon, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Desert Song T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Flared Bear T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Great White Buffalo T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Illusion Dweller T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Medicine Man T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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New Latitude T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Not for Loan T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Rubberfat Syndrome, The TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Some Like It Hot T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Sweep Walkers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Where Eagles Dare T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Where Janitors Dare T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Worms in Your Brain T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
| Type: | Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Roy Naasz and Chris Wegener, February 1970 (1st pitch only); FFA: John Bachar 1977(entire route) |
| Page Views: | 5,548 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | C Miller on Jul 8, 2002 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Mike Morley, C Miller, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Gunkswest |
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Located on the west face of the Sentinel just right of center on the wall. It is visible as a vertical crack/seam which leads up to the right end of an impressive roof.
P1, 5.10 A0 or 5.11 PG) Start right at some yucca plants and climb the steep crack/seam past three bolts and three fixed heads until possible to traverse left to a bolted anchor. It is possible to rap from here (60 meter rope works best), but there is more fun ahead...
P2, 5.11b R) From the belay make some hard moves with so-so pro up and slightly right then back left to reach a hand crack perched at the lip of the previously mentioned roof.
Once in the crack traverse left along the lip and up until you reach a vertical crack which leads to the top. Walk off to climber's right down slabs.
This is a true Josh classic that should be done by those comfortable at this grade, but be aware that the second pitch is heads-up. The first pitch (5.10 with aid or 5.11 free) is popular and often done without committing to the imposing second pitch.
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