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California
> Yosemite NP
> Yosemite Valley
> Valley S Side
> P. Cathedral Area
> 6. Middle Cathedral Rock
Direct North Buttress (DNB)
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.4 from 41
votes
Routes in 6. Middle Cathedral Rock
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Bircheff-Williams T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Border Country T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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Bottom Feeder T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Cat Dancing T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Central Pillar of Frenzy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Chicken Ten-D's S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Coffee Snob T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Corner Pocket T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Desperate for Doughnuts T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Direct North Buttress (DNB) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Direct Start to Central Pillar T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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East Buttress T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A0 |
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Ennui T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Exodus T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Fall Guy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Father Time T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c PG13 |
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Feel so Numb S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Flakes, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Freewheelin' T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Gaia T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A3+ |
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Gaia (1st 7 pitches) T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Grand Wazoo, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Ho Chi Minh Trail T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Hole in One T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Home Run T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Kor-Beck T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lap Lobster T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Micro-Apron Far Left T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Micro-Apron Far Right T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Micro-Apron Left T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Modern Alchemy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Monogamish T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Mother Earth T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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No Butts About It T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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North Buttress T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Northwest Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Paradise Lost T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Pedestal, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pee Pee Pillar T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Pee Pee Pillar Left T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Punny People T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Quicksilver T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Rainbow bridge S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Ramer S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Reefer Cruise T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Scorpion Tale T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Slip on Slime S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Space Babble T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Spank Your Monkey T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Stand And Deliver T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Stoner's Highway T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Stupid Pet Tricks T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sweet Thang T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Tapestry T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Tears of Joy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Together Forever T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Top Dog S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Up the Down Staircase T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Volkswagen Mechanic, The TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Walk of Life T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 1700 ft (515 m), 17 pitches, Grade V |
| FA: | FA: Yvon Chouinard & Steve Roper, 6/62 FFA: Frank Sacherer & Eric Beck, 1965 |
| Page Views: | 20,198 total · 91/month |
| Shared By: | andrew kulmatiski on Oct 16, 2006 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
Hard to squeeze more climbing in a day. The first pitch sets the stage - the 5.7 chimney is umm, not fast climbing. The 3rd pitch crux is, umm, difficult, but bolt protected. The 4th pitch includes some 5.9 R climbing, but from there on out route finding and moving quickly are the major difficulties. Spectacular views of the captain, plenty of company with all the swallows. I don't know why anyone would complain about this route.
Don't just take my word for it- Bill Wright had this to say:
"The crux 5.10b pitch, which is quite difficult, is one of the easiest pitches on the route. It has a runout section, but it doesn't take long to lead and it is easy to get past the mantle on aid. As for the rest, You can count the fixed pro on one hand. The belays are marginal. Every pitch is runout, some grossly. Route finding is difficult on a number of pitches and especially the start of the descent. There are offwidths or squeeze chimneys on the 1st, 10th, 11th, and 14th thru 17th pitches. The 17th pitch is the crux, then either the devious 12th pitch or super sandbag 10th pitch."
But, hey, if it were easy it wouldn't be an accomplishment.
P1 - difficult 5.7 chimney. There is apparently a 5.8 option on the pillar to the right of the chimney.
P2 - up nice ramp to right
P3 - move right up ramp, then lt to bolts at mantle in blank face continue up poorly protected face climbing to the left.
P4- poorly protected face climbing.
P5- move right up under a roof - I've heard several people say the undercling traverse out of this roof is just as difficult as the P3 crux.
P6 - wander up poorly protected face left of arete.
P7 - downclimb then up runout 5.7 face
P8- 50' traverse right
P9- continue moving right avoiding a large (30') loose block (if it is still there)
P10-11 - move up large flare
P12-14- flare turns to cracks and chimneys
P15- 5.6 slot huh? Consensus seems to 5.8 chimney
P16-17 - progressively hard and steep chimney climbing.
The route is often rapped from the top of the 5th or 6th pitch - you'll have to leave gear to rap from above the 6th pitch. I think many parties have the intention of finishing but the grades belie the difficulties on the route.
Give yourself some extra time to get across the Kat walk in the daylight. It is not recommended to cross this in the dark. To traverse the Kat walk climb UP 50-100' from the top of the route then beginning traversing down and left on a slabby ledge system. Traversing immediately left from the top of the route will leave you stuck above a bowl. I remained roped up for this section. Once across the face move up for a pitch and through the shrubbery until you find rap stations that head down the gully.
Don't just take my word for it- Bill Wright had this to say:
"The crux 5.10b pitch, which is quite difficult, is one of the easiest pitches on the route. It has a runout section, but it doesn't take long to lead and it is easy to get past the mantle on aid. As for the rest, You can count the fixed pro on one hand. The belays are marginal. Every pitch is runout, some grossly. Route finding is difficult on a number of pitches and especially the start of the descent. There are offwidths or squeeze chimneys on the 1st, 10th, 11th, and 14th thru 17th pitches. The 17th pitch is the crux, then either the devious 12th pitch or super sandbag 10th pitch."
But, hey, if it were easy it wouldn't be an accomplishment.
P1 - difficult 5.7 chimney. There is apparently a 5.8 option on the pillar to the right of the chimney.
P2 - up nice ramp to right
P3 - move right up ramp, then lt to bolts at mantle in blank face continue up poorly protected face climbing to the left.
P4- poorly protected face climbing.
P5- move right up under a roof - I've heard several people say the undercling traverse out of this roof is just as difficult as the P3 crux.
P6 - wander up poorly protected face left of arete.
P7 - downclimb then up runout 5.7 face
P8- 50' traverse right
P9- continue moving right avoiding a large (30') loose block (if it is still there)
P10-11 - move up large flare
P12-14- flare turns to cracks and chimneys
P15- 5.6 slot huh? Consensus seems to 5.8 chimney
P16-17 - progressively hard and steep chimney climbing.
The route is often rapped from the top of the 5th or 6th pitch - you'll have to leave gear to rap from above the 6th pitch. I think many parties have the intention of finishing but the grades belie the difficulties on the route.
Give yourself some extra time to get across the Kat walk in the daylight. It is not recommended to cross this in the dark. To traverse the Kat walk climb UP 50-100' from the top of the route then beginning traversing down and left on a slabby ledge system. Traversing immediately left from the top of the route will leave you stuck above a bowl. I remained roped up for this section. Once across the face move up for a pitch and through the shrubbery until you find rap stations that head down the gully.
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