Direct North Ridge

The Direct North Ridge combines the North Ridge from the notch with an extra 1200 feet of fun climbing. Although loose in spots and somewhat lichen covered, the route offers a longer, harder day than the North Ridge with good solid 5.9+ climbing.  Time required to complete the route will vary substantially, from half a day with lots of fast simul climbing to several days if pitching out more sections.

(Note: the first ascent of the upper North Ridge was made by Fred Beckey and Steve Marts in 1963; the direct (and most classic) variation was established by Mead Harris and Jay Ossiander seven years later. Beckey's route followed a loose 5th class gully to a midway point on the ridge called the North Ridge Notch.

Roughly the first 3 pitches are the hardest. 1: Climb up easy terrain off a big ledge about 150 feet above the base of the toe to a small tree. 2: Continue up through an awkward 5.8 slot (harder with backpacks) to a face and then to a nice ledge. 3: Follow a striking lie back crack on your left for quite a ways. This is 5.9+ and sustained. Once you pull over a small roof there will be another ledge to set up a belay.

From here veer up and right, following the path of least resistance. The rock at times is loose and sometimes covered in crumbly black lichen, although the most traveled path is usually clean. It is mostly easy 5th class with an occasional mid-5th move.  The route generally climbs near the ridge crest, although occasionally bypasses steeper sections and towers. Around 8200 ft you'll reach the large notch at the beginning of the upper north ridge; there are many bivy sites here, and seasonal snow patches may provide water.  This is a common bivy location for parties breaking the route up into 2 days, but other sites exist both below and above the notch.

For the Upper North Ridge look at Max Tepfer's description on this site.  Begin by staying on the left (east) side of the ridge then follow an easy ramp up to the ridge crest at a notch below a narrow section. Move up left over a bulge (5.6) and then on to an exposed knife-edge section on the west side of the ridge. From here follow the ridge to the super cool 5.5 slab split by an amazing crack and then to the Gendarme (about 8 or 9 pitches from the Notch) The Gendarme can be done in two pitches; 1: a 5.8 lie back and 2: a 5.9+ off-width.  The Gendarme is almost always in the shade and can be very cold or even icy.  Above the gendarme, trend right to get back onto the crest at a small saddle, follow a brief 5.7 handcrack, and then follow lower angle broken terrain to the summit.

Note that an alternative route bypasses the Great Gendarme by rappelling (bolted anchor) to the right (west) side at its base and following easier terrain to bypass the steeper pitches.  This bypass skips some of the best climbing on the route and involves climbing dirty rock in a gully prone to rockfall, and is not recommended.

Several approach options exist:

North Side (Stuart Lake Trailhead): Follow the Mountaineers Creek trail towards Stuart Lake, past the Colchuck Lake turnoff.  Before climbing up to Stuart Lake, cross the creek and follow the south fork of the creek upstream.  After a couple miles, climb a steep talus/boulder slope to reach the hanging valley below Sherpa Peak and Sherpa Glacier (good campsites here).  From the valley, climb directly to the toe of the ridge, keeping the Ice Cliff Glacier on your left.

This approach can work well when combined with a descent down Sherpa Glacier in earlier season, before the glacier becomes too difficult to navigate.  You can also descend the West Ridge and loop around, or go down the Cascadian and then do a long and grueling loop around the mountain.

South Side (Esmerelda Basin Trailhead / Ingalls Lake): Begin at the Esmerelda Basin Trailhead outside Teanaway.  Follow signs towards Ingalls Lake (Ingalls Way trail).  Bypass the lake on either side, and follow the ridge across Stuart Pass towards the West Ridge.  At approximately 7,000 ft, drop into the scree/talus gully to the north, aiming for Goat Pass (do not drop into this gully too early, or you'll lose precious elevation and have to ascend difficult terrain).  Traverse across the gully and climb out the other side to Goat Pass (7600 ft), many good bivy sites exist here.  From Goat Pass, traverse east below the Stuart Glacier, staying above the large moraine mound.  You may cross several snow slopes on this traverse, especially earlier season.  Aim directly for the toe of the ridge.

This approach works well with a descent of the Cascadian Couloir, after which you can hike over Longs Pass and descend back to the car.

The Cascadian Couloir is probably the most common descent, but several alternatives exist.  The Sherpa Glacier can be used earlier in the season, downclimbing the West Ridge may be more direct, and parties have descended the NW Ridge.  Be sure to read up on your chosen descent, Stuart has quite a bit of large complex terrain and parties have accidentally taken the wrong descent path.

Cams: 0.3-3, doubles in 0.4-2, optional #4 for the Great Gendarme offwidth.

Nuts (offsets work well): 1 set

Approximately 8-12 alpine draws (mix of single and double length)

Optional ice axe and crampons for the approach/descent (depending on route choice and season).

A helmet.