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Direct Petzoldt Ridge
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 3.6 from 125
votes
Routes in Grand Teton
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Bean's Shining Wall of Storms T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Beyer East Face I T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Black Ice - West Face Combination T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c AI3 |
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Burgette Arête T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Collins-Coombs T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Collins-Hume T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Crystal Right T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C0 |
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Crystal Tower T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Direct Petzoldt Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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East Face Direct T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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East Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Emerson Chimney T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Exum Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Fight or Flight Traverse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Flipping Tokens to Hoboken T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Ford - Stettner Couloir (Ski Descent) WI2-3 Mod. Snow |
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Gold Face T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Golden Pillar, Direct North Face T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Jackson-Rickert Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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Lower Exum Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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North Buttress Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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North Face Highlight Tour T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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North Face Standard T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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North Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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North Side Lowlight Tour (path of least resistance) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Easy Snow |
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Owen Spalding T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Perception Traverse T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 |
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Petzoldt Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Pownall-Gilkey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Psudo Emerson Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c M4- |
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Simpleton Pillar T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c M1 Mod. Snow |
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Stettner Couloir T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI2-3 Mod. Snow |
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Underhill Ridge Original/Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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West Face of the Exum Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Wish You Were Here T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Wittich Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Wooden Ships T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Willi Unsoeld, LaRee Muns, James Shirley, Rodney Shirley, Austin Flint |
| Page Views: | 41,948 total · 183/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned User on Mar 8, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
Description
This route is a classic in almost every sense. Certainly one of the most memorable combined with the Exum Ridge, or less commonly, if equipped for good snow, the Ford Coulior, either provides for an extremely enjoyable day in the mountains.
The crux is a well-protected (pins?) slot/roof on great holds. "The Window" pitch is perhaps one of the most memorable anywhere! The route climb from the right, East, side of the ridge to the west side.
Climbers should be aware that the route tops out on a minor summit. A 30’ thread through double lower or rappel or down climb is required to get off the ridge. From there, one can continue up the Ford Couloir. The preferred alternative is to traverse upwards on a ledge to the Exum Ridge at the entrance to the “Wind Tunnel” the most common option.
Photos
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