Type: Trad, 160 ft (48 m), 2 pitches
FA: Kevin Worrall, Dale Bard, 1976
Page Views: 453 total · 19/month
Shared By: Kevin Worrall on Feb 16, 2023
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Start on the face just right of the arete of The Bircheff Williams. Climb 40 ft of unprotected 10a, to a protection bolt. Work your way up and right across the Pillar to a belay at the base of a straight in arrow crack which parallels the Central Pillar first pitch. Follow this until it’s possible to move right to the easier route.

Andreas Maurer, a top German climber at the time, scolded me, to my amusement, for placing the first bolt so high off the deck. It’s probably best done as a toprope. The rock is excellent, and the climbing is continuously tricky, with a crux close to 5.12. Bridwell asked me why I bothered doing a direct start, after his FA of CP, I responded by asking him why he did a direct finish. Good times!

Location Suggest change

Center of Central Pillar of Frenzy

Protection Suggest change

Small wires, bolts

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