Direct Start to Central Pillar
5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British R
Type: | Trad, 160 ft (48 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Kevin Worrall, Dale Bard, 1976 |
Page Views: | 453 total · 19/month |
Shared By: | Kevin Worrall on Feb 16, 2023 |
Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
Start on the face just right of the arete of The Bircheff Williams. Climb 40 ft of unprotected 10a, to a protection bolt. Work your way up and right across the Pillar to a belay at the base of a straight in arrow crack which parallels the Central Pillar first pitch. Follow this until it’s possible to move right to the easier route.
Andreas Maurer, a top German climber at the time, scolded me, to my amusement, for placing the first bolt so high off the deck. It’s probably best done as a toprope. The rock is excellent, and the climbing is continuously tricky, with a crux close to 5.12. Bridwell asked me why I bothered doing a direct start, after his FA of CP, I responded by asking him why he did a direct finish. Good times!
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