All Locations > Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Tower One

Doub-Griffith

Name: Doub-Griffith
Rating: 3.9

5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British

Routes in Redgarden - Tower One

L › R R › L A › Z

	Alice in Bucketland T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Apple Strudel T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Art Of Slappiness, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
	Art's Spar T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Better Layton Never S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Blueberry Boodle T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
	Body Tremors T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Chockstone Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Consummation Nite T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Daedalus T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Dandelion Wine S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Deadpoint T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Dirty Deed T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Disclosure (new name) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Doub-Griffith T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	E.L. 200 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	E.L.100 T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	Eleven T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Exhibit A T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2+ R
	Exit Stage Left T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Flashdance T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Fresh Garbage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Grand Giraffe T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Grand Giraffe Slot Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
	Icarus T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
	Ignition S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Italian Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	King Cobra, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Magic Bus T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
	Magic Carpet Ride S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Magic Route T C2+
	Mellow Fellow T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Mellow Yellow T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
	Memory Lapse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Mickey Mouse Nailup T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
	Much Slater (left variation) T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
	Neptune's Bible T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Neurosis T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
	One and a Half Hours of Power T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13
	Over the Shoulder Stuff T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	Parting Shot T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Phallus In Suck-It-Land T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Pigeon Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Psycho Pigeon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Psychosis T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
	Reaper T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Rocky Raccoon T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Roll Over Rover T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Rosy II - (In Memory Of Layton Kor) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13
	Rover T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
	Ruper T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Ruper to Grand Giraffe T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Short Arm Inspection. T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
	Smoke & Mirrors T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Song of the Dodo T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
	South Face of Tower One T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
	Super Slab T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Superspar T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Three Old Farts Young at Heart T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
	To RP Or Not To Be T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X
	Untouchables, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Variation to Third Pitch of Yellow Spur T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Vertigo T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	West Arete (of T1), The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
	Without A Net T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
	Yellow Fellow T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
	Yellow Spur, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Ytrid Deed, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

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Type:	Trad, 3 pitches Fixed Hardware (8)
FA:	ah, teenage Doub and Griffith
Page Views:	23,471 total · 83/month
Shared By:	Steve Levin on Nov 5, 2001
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Rockfall Access Effect & Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Per Dustin Bergman, Eldorado Canyon State Park Officer: the upper third of the West Redgarden trail and Rewritten descent trail suffered significant damage during that storm that came through a few weeks ago. Please consider choosing alternates routes lower on the trail.

Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.

The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.

For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted Details

Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.

Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.

Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.

These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.

Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.

See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.

Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:

Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!

Description

Per Marshall W: it seems that the description for this route disappeared [requested by the submitter], so figured I would do a short write up with the help of Levin's guidebook.

This is a route of immense historical significance that was put up by Eric Doub and Christian Griffith when they were teenagers. Frowned upon in its day for rap bolting tactics, it has stood the test of time and is a must for any aspiring Eldo climber. This one has a bit of a reputation, but don’t let it deter you. The P3 runout is 5.9ish and very manageable. The historical significance of this route cannot be overstated.

The D-G starts on a small island ledge to the left of Super Slab the super slab start. There are two options to reach this ledge and the base of the climb. Option 1) scramble the upper ramp and locate the base of Super Slab. Do an exposed 5.4 scramble up and left from Super Slab to reach the base of the D-G. Option 2) hike up to Vertigo Ledge and do a short down climb to the base of D-G. This is a good option if you plan to do the vertigo rappels since you can leave your bag at the base of the rappels. Bang, bang.

There are two popular options for the opening pitches of this route: the original Doub-Griffith or the Dubious Graffiti variation. Dubious Graffiti is a more independent, more direct line with more 5.11 cruxes making it a more popular option.

The original Doub-Griffith:

P1: pull through a bulge off of the island ledge and head straight up on laybacks and finger locks. Follow the seam to its top and work straight right around the arete to the Super Slab belay, pumpy 5.11-, 80 feet.

P2: head straight up the corner at 5.6 until you see a bolt to your left on the arete. Follow two bolts and a pin through delicate 5.11- slab moves and scamper up to the exposed belay below the crux pitch, 5.11-, 120 feet.

P3: this is the reason you are here! This pitch oozes with historical significance. Traverse down and left to the arete, then go up to clip the first bolt. Take a deep breath, and then cast off towards bolt number two. Continue to follow the arete past three more bolts. Work right after the last bolt to meet up with Super Slab via heroic 5.9 jug hauling to the upper ramp. One can also take the more direct 5.12a variation straight up the overhanging arete for bonus points, 5.11c, 100 feet.

Dubious Graffiti variation:

P1: pull through the bulge off of island ledge, and follow the crack up via laybacks and finger locks. Once at the top of the seam, work LEFT towards a small roof protected by a bolt. After pulling the roof, gain a stance and belay, 5.11-, 70 feet.

P2: work right to the arete past two bolts. Continue straight up, and meet up with the D-G higher up on the arete, 5.11b, 120 feet.

P3: this is the same as the original D-G.

You completed a historically significant ascent of one of the best 5.11s in Colorado. Great work.

Protection

The typical Eldo stuff, including RPs and TCUs. The upper pitch is bolt protected, but the bolts are widely spaced.

Per pfinnegan: the P2 pin is broken! Per Matt Reeser: the pin is back.