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Dream Safari (5.10 or 5.11)
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British R
Avg: 3.9 from 8
votes
Routes in Dark Shadows Wall
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Chasing Shadows T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dark Shadows T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dark Shadows (Full) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dream Safari (5.10 or 5.11) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Edge Dressing T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Excellent Adventure T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Extra Credit T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Heart of Darkness T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Lost Voices T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Negro Blanco T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Parental Guidance T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Peyote Power T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Risky Business T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Sandstone Sandwich T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Short Circuit T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Slot Machine T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 4 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 338 total · 43/month |
| Shared By: | Gee Monet on May 29, 2024 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen |
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Dream Safari is a 4 pitch extension to Risky Business & Excellent Adventure. The climbing is of similar style & spice as the routes below it. There are several ways to climb pitch 2, so you can choose your own adventure. Pitches 2 & 3 have some really good movement & cool positioning. The rock is excellent overall & great belay ledges to boot. So, if you climb either of those routes and want some more, then climb on.
From the top of Risky Business or Excellent Adventure:
P1: 5.9 R, 28m. Climb straight up through a sea of chocolate patina to a belay ledge. 2 bolts on this pitch.
P2 Original: 5.11- PG13, 30m. Up & left to a small flake with some pro, then back right to a rest at a bolt. Pull up to a stance below the crux crack. A #3 and/or #2 pretty crucial here. Small nuts see you through the crux to another belay ledge out left. This is an incredible & beautiful pitch of climbing.
P2 Variation: 5.10- R, 25m. Up & right to the thin, right trending crack. Excellent & fun climbing. This pitch ends at the Heart of Darkness anchor (belay here). Climb up & left (5.10 R) to regain Dream Safari on P3. It is also possible to climb 1/2 way up this crack and traverse back left to the OG route near the bolt to still hit the OG crux.
P3: 5.10c R, 30m. Step back right and climb the thin crack & steep face with small nuts and micro cams. Continue up past 2 bolts to a beautiful slab below the roof. A #0.5 cam is critical for protecting the moves up the slab and to the anchor on a small ledge out left.
P4: 5.8, 20m. Head up towards the break in the roof. Pull through left at a bolt, & continue up a low angle slab to an anchor & the end of the climb. You can unrope here and scramble up a gully to a nice ledge to take in the views before rappelling. This pitch is nowhere near as good as the others, so either tick it once or skip it.
Alternatively, you can continue to the top of Mescalito by joining Dark Shadows on this ledge at the top of pitch 8.
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