Eagles Rest Rock Climbing

Eagles Rest is a relatively large wall rising out of an old growth forest on public land southeast of Eugene.  Routes are predominantly on vertical to gently overhung terrain and often requires a nice balance of technical skills and forearm endurance.

While Eagles Rest will never be an international destination, it is easily one of the most picturesque cragging experiences in Oregon. On any given day, visitors may discover delicious mushrooms or berries as they walk to and from the crag, enjoy greetings from a variety of birds while clipping chains high on the wall, or find a pre-send moment of calm staring up into the trees rising high above the forest floor

Like other Willamette Valley crags, the primary season runs from Spring to Fall with conditions getting a bit toasty during the height of Summer. However, climbing is often possible, and quite good, in the dead of Winter on sun drenched portions of the south facing cliff. Yet, the perpetual shade of the old growth in other parts of the wall and the couple thousand feet of elevation above the Willamette Valley floor help keep things cool enough to still get good days in when it's boiling in town. 

Even with numerous hikers bagging the peak via a well established trail ascending the east side of the cliff, Eagles Rest seems to have garnered little attention from climbers other than short bouts of development in the early 2000s that yielded some of the access anchors and a handful of routes. However, in the Fall of 2018 a small group began developing in earnest.  The area now houses one of the highest concentrations of sport climbs in the Willamette Valley with a nice variety of routes between 5.6 and 5.13d.

Rock quality is variable and bad rock is common.  Even with substantial cleaning efforts, the rock has a tendency to fracture and come loose.  There is very real potential for rockfall from both the routes and hikers on the trail above. Stay alert when climbing and belaying, but also when just hanging at the base of the wall. Rockfall happens regularly. Helmets are highly recommended.

The area is still under active development. Please take note of closed projects (marked by red tape) and stay aware when hiking/climbing near folks high on a fixed line, as bolting/cleaning can/will lead to rockfall. When in doubt, make your presence known. 

For many Eugene area climbers, Eagles Rest is quickly becoming a cherished place to get outside, climb, and connect with the community just about any time of the year. May it be a place of joy and inspiration for you and others to follow.  Allez!