[Hide Comment] Agreed! I couldn't believe it one night when I went to climb it, the route was almost as mobbed as during the day. You don't really need a full moon at all with all the light coming off Boulder, so avoid the exact date of the full moon. Jul 26, 2001

[Hide Comment] About the 3rd rap: if facing the rock, you actually traverse left (west) to reach the Friday's Folly rap anchor. From here, it's 72' to the West Bench. Boulder Mountain Parks has mostly idiot-proofed this by adding an instructive sign at the other (east) bolt. Sep 10, 2001

[Hide Comment] Take a chill. The 5th belay is off a bolt at the begining of the gash. I recommend setting up a 15' clove hitch line off the bolt along with a quick draw for your partner. That way you can climb down to the huge ledge and chill back while you belay your partner. I've seen ppl struggling to belay with their life-lines holding them tightly against the lame slab or off the side of the gash. Not fun! Nov 11, 2001

[Hide Comment] With two sixty meter ropes you can do a spectacular 195' (that rivals the maiden, the last 100 feet free hanging)rappel directly of the west face. However pulling the ropes is difficult. If you are soloing and rapping off on a 60m rope on a busy day,you can rap off by this method and have someone on top toss your rope down to avoid the 3 raps and crowds. Happy New Year! Jan 1, 2002

[Hide Comment] Last evening we tried the single rope rap off the top, just for fun. From the top, we rapped west (not southwest as the normal rap goes) and ended up just 30' feet north of where the normal 3rd rap ends. A 60m rope was plenty for this, I'm pretty sure even a 50m rope would make it. There is no way a double rope rap rigged this way could pull, but this works great as a descent if there was someone else on top who would untie and throw your rope down. The great thing is it doesn't interfere with any of the existing 3 raps, so could be used to bypass traffic jams on the descent.

By the way someone recently doubled up all the bolts on the normal rap descent. Thanks to whoever did this! Aug 2, 2002

[Hide Comment] George makes an important point about the single rap, which I'd like to re-iterate. Unless there is someone to help feed your rope, you will not be able to pull it down. There is just too much rope stretch and friction over the edge. Aug 5, 2002

[Hide Comment] George: so a single 60M rap off the west will get you down? and you can pull the rope by yourself? thanks Aug 7, 2002

[Hide Comment] Lengthwise, it is possible to rap off then summit anchors and make the ground in 60m. HOWEVER, this really isn't much use as you will not be able to pull your ropes due to the rope drag near the top anchors. The only time you could benefit from this is if someone else on top can untie your rope and drop it after you rap.

I think there are two ways to do the 60m rap: (1) follow the line of the normal first and second rap, and keep going. The normal 3rd rap done this way is well over 25m, but I think this rap from the summit is what Andrew Klein did, and he claims it is 195 feet. I have not tried this line, so BE CAREFUL. (2) go 90 degrees from the regular rap line, to the west or even northwest. This actually requires that the rope from thesummit anchors goes UPHILL for a few feet and then over a lip. Then swing around to the north of a buttress and drop straight down a headwall, ending about 30' north of where the normal 3rd rap ends. This is well under 60m. By the way, I think this rap line is close to the recently added "West Face" route. Aug 8, 2002

[Hide Comment] Gary Clark just added this route, as well as Sykes Sickle on Spearhead to the NA Classics list (www.naclassics.com). Aug 28, 2002

[Hide Comment] Hey,

Yesterday did this for the first time. Fantastic climb. We actually started at the base and just angled up and to the right, aiming for the 2nd eyebolt. (There were a few normal bolts along that path, as well.) Made for eight great pitches (with a 60 meter rope, we were able to skip the 3rd eyebolt belay and the belay on the ramp after the last eyebolt) of fantastic face climbing.

However, I was wondering about the descent. After rapping from the top, do you head north or south? We went south down some gullies. Did one rap off a tree, and thrashed around in a ton of underbrush once we got to the creekbed. Is the descent to the north better? (Please say yes.)

Thanks,Dan Sep 6, 2002

[Hide Comment] Yes! If you go north, there is a trail. You can scramble down straight north from the 3rd rappel, but there is a sign on a tree about 50' west of the final rap. This is the start of a good trail all the way down. Way easier than going to the south. Sep 6, 2002

[Hide Comment] The direct nature of this line makes it an ideal candidate for simul-climbing. My partner and I completed it in under an hour in that manner....a good place to learn simul-climbing technique. My only advice with that is, in the words of Dennis Jackson......."Just don't f&%*ing fall!". Oct 7, 2002

[Hide Comment] Fantastic Feel Good Climb ! Excellent Early Lead, Bomber holds everywhere and Ample pro (except the final pitch). The last pitch is a little scary with little pro, but the climbing is slabby and moderate. May 5, 2003

[Hide Comment] Well I feel like a goonyah... Last night I soloed this for the first time and I think I ROYALLY screwed someone up. There was a rappel set up from the summit to what I thought was the second rap pins. I was worried that no one responded to my calls, so I rapped down, only to find the line "snagged" below the second rap. Again, worried that the line was snagged and no one replied, I thought perhaps someone had gone off the ends, so I pulled the rope from the summit to rescue and went down again. The rope was a fixed rap for someone and there wasn't any accident. I am ashamed that I screwed someone up and had no prusik material to go back and do the last pitch again. My sincere apologies to whomever had that rope there. I hope you had a good time in the moonlight anyway... Aug 12, 2003

[Hide Comment] Climbed this one two weeks ago (8-9-03) and had a blast. Easy, gorgeous climbing much easier than the grade at least in most places. The last pitch up the runout is really the only 5.4 part on the climb. Eye bolts make for great anchors though finding them is a challenge in and of itself. Sank 2-3 pieces of gear on each pitch and didn't feel like this was too much. Buzzed by peregrins and larger hawks as well as an overly-amorous sail plane. This one would make an interesting moonlight climb. My introduction to Flatiron climbing and a good advertisement for more of the same. Aug 25, 2003

[Hide Comment] Did this route on 8/24. Fantastic, fun climbing. We felt the pro was pretty good if you have and can use a diverse rack. Used lots of small to mid tri-cams and big (2.5 - 4) Friends. Only part that was even a bit "s" was the last 30-40' of the "Direct" finish. With a 60m rope you can string together pitches 2 & 3, but don't wander. Combining 4 & 5 requires about 15' of simul-climbing or a 70m rope. Note on the rappel: To find the 2nd rappel anchor, DON'T follow the instructions printed on the summit bolt plate. You will pretty much *land* on the proper 2nd rappel anchor at the bottom of your first rappel. All rappels are double bolted (except the optional 140' rappel from the Friday's Folley ledge). Aug 25, 2003

[Hide Comment] Please review the descent before going down even if it is your 20th time. A story from 8/27/3 reiterates this. A 3rd flatiron veteran sent an inexperienced partner down the rappels to the S with double 50m ropes from the top to reach the ground in 1 rappel. Fortunately she was able to stop just before the ends of the ropes. The last party up that day fortunately were able to help out and provide additional ropes to keep this from being a tragedy. Please, recheck out the descents even if you already know them. Aug 29, 2003

[Hide Comment] I should clarify... my comment above applies to the "standard," 3-rap descent. I *think* you can also rap to the ground with 2 x 60m ropes using the single eyebolt anchor that you find by crawling SE under the big rock (as it says on the summit bolt). Aug 29, 2003

[Hide Comment] Did the route yesterday, my first long trad lead. This route is a must for beginnig leaders! Can't say enough good things about the route, the raps, the whole thing... I found large cams to be the friendliest pro... Sep 12, 2003

[Hide Comment] Quick comment. George is right, it is virtually impossible to pull the ropes if you do the super rap of the 3rd. So someone will have to be up there to throw the rope to you, or the last person up must rap one of the other ways (or you could jumar back up for fun and rap the standard way)-Peace Dec 21, 2003

[Hide Comment] I tried to post this morning, but it never showed up. Maybe I screwed up. I'll attempt to recreate the post.

Prepare ye masses... It's open y'all! Tear it up! George Bell sent me an e-mail last night and the link to the OSMP page with closures. We met up this morning at 0600 and headed on up from the Chautauqua Visitor Center. Saw [no one] ahead nor behind us, but on the descent I noticed a few poison ivy leaves broken from their vines on the trail in the talus. From the withering, it looks like they came off yesterday. If someone beat us to the first climb of the season (legally or not), well done. If it was a raptor observer confirming the capacity to lift the closure, even better! Get after it.

The proof: ci.boulder.co.us/openspace/…

Enjoy!~Wm Jul 14, 2005

[Hide Comment] I shot a short movie of our climb on October 16, 2005: leachfam.com/securearea/1mo… Oct 17, 2005

[Hide Comment] Best 5.4, anywhere! Sep 12, 2006

[Hide Comment] I was led up this route once before but swung leads today as a member of a trio. What great fun! This route only becomes more magnificent as you explore the nooks and cranies for little pockets to suck up some gear. The views were tremendous! I was amused to learn that other climbers have developed a fondness for the chickenhead (looks more like an anvil: credit to Dave Holliday for that visual) that you can sling on the last pitch.

Truly a classic! Sep 30, 2006

[Hide Comment] Climbed this last night in the Moonlight - Full moon. For the end of October, it was a great warm night - breaze blowing up from the city. We were at the top at 1:00 am. A headlamp is useful for placing gear in those dark cracks, but turn it off for climbing as it kills night vision and depth perception. Thanks to the guys who let us join for the rap off, it definitely saved time. What a blast! Oct 26, 2007

[Hide Comment] Climbed this route 8/5/09 and again with an organized group on 8/11/09. We shared the face with several other parties but managed to avoid any major traffic jams. Climbing on a weekday and/or getting an early start is recommended for this route, due to its popularity. We did both (started climbing at around 8 AM on weekdays) yet still had to rub elbows with others in a few places.

We combined pitches 2 and 3 with a 60m rope (from the 2nd to the 4th eyebolts) and had about 10 feet to spare. Otherwise we used the standard belay and rappel stations. The stances at the 2nd and 6th eyebolts do not accommodate large groups very well.

Small to medium gear (nuts, hexes, cams) work well on this climb. I didn't feel the need for much protection between belays, as the climbing is mostly fourth class, but went ahead and placed 2 or 3 pieces per pitch anyway, on general principle. A #3 Camalot or equivalent is useful on the first pitch to protect the step up from the gully onto the central rib, near the end of the pitch below the 2nd eyebolt.

This climb has been rated 5.2 for decades, so I don't know why everyone is calling it 5.4 now. The rock is noticeably smoother for the last 40 feet or so, as the summit is approached, but the friction holds are obvious and secure, even for beginners. Soloists routinely downclimb this pitch all the time, sometimes in their approach shoes or sandals. It is certainly easier than many other climbs traditionally rated 5.4 in the Flatirons and elsewhere in the Boulder area. I'll stick with the traditional "R" seriousness rating, but no one who has gotten to within 40 feet of the summit will have any problem leading the last part. Aug 12, 2009

[Hide Comment] I must admit I cannot tell the difference between 5.2 and 5.4!

I've also climbed the face in 4 pitches (almost), with a 60m rope, no simulclimbing. To do so you have to follow a straight line between the start and summit, and then I ended up 30 feet short of the summit on pitch 4 and belayed off the giant chicken head (so, 4.1 pitches). I think if you stretch every pitch you could do it, or certainly with a 65m or 70m rope. Aug 12, 2009

[Hide Comment] George, you mean when you worked your way through Flatiron Classics you couldn't see a difference between the climbs Roach rated NCCS F4 (5.0-5.2) and those he rated F5 (5.3-5.4)? Even if you were soloing?

I have met people who could climb 4th class, struggled with 5.0-5.2, and couldn't do 5.3-5.4 at all. For the benefit of those people, it is probably worth making such distinctions. Although I'll admit that the difference between 5.0 and 5.1 escapes me. Maybe if you do the climbs that established the original standards at Tahquitz Rock it becomes apparent. Aug 12, 2009

[Hide Comment] I see what you mean, perhaps it is more that 5.2 and 5.4 are often graded inconsistently because the graders have trouble distinguishing them. It is the people who notice the jump from 5.2 to 5.4 that should be grading these climbs!

Soloing almost requires a different grading system.... Aug 12, 2009

[Hide Comment] This climb can be done in 3.5 pitches with a 70m rope and zero simul-climbing. P1 is not quite a full rope length, belay at an eye bolt or slightly above on gear. P2 is also not quite a full rope length and you can belay at the last eye bolt mid face (not the one by the Gash). P3 I stretched the rope fully and belayed on good gear just below the big ledge across the Gash. An alternate belay can be had 10-15 feet below on good gear as well. The final pitch is roughly half a rope length to the summit. Rope drag is minimal with good slinging and runout placements so you will likely only do this if you're confident at the grade but it's great for when you are bringing the rope primarily for the 2nd or for people who aren't into soloing or simul climbing.

I can't wait to try it again when my 80m rope gets here, 3 pitches to the summit? Jul 30, 2010

[Hide Comment] Chris, I support 3 pitches with the 80m! Easy climb but definitely a super fun one if you're in the area! Using a 70m the rappel was done with plenty of excess with only 2 runs. If you feel like having a fun time and enjoying a great view, then do this route! Jul 30, 2010

[Hide Comment] I did 4.5 pitches on a 60 m rope with no simul climbing. 1st pitch ends at 2nd bolt, second pitch ends at 4th bolt (the one on the left), third and fourth pitches on good gear (three good pieces in for each anchor) with the end of the third pitch about 50 feet above the bolt in the CU, and the end of the fourth pitch just to the right of the top of The Gash, then it was only 50 feet to summit. By belaying the fourth pitch just right of the top of The Gash, you can see the bottom of the fourth pitch. Quite a bit of poison ivy in the ravine hiking down - watch for leaves of three! Aug 2, 2010

[Hide Comment] If you have two 60 meter ropes, you can rappel down the south face from the rappel station in the notch after the first rappel, skipping the bolts on the ledge system (130 foot rappel or Friday's). Be careful on the pull (we pulled the ropes from 20 feet out from the wall to give them a path not to get caught). Aug 25, 2010

[Hide Comment] Great climb. Free soloed it yesterday. I would agree that it is about a 5.4 if only due to the last stretch to the third (north) finger.

Both this and the Second Flatiron are great first free solos. The only tricky part is down-climbing the last pitch, which is very crimpy. Fortunately the entire climb is at 45 degree.

Do this climb, especially if you are visiting Boulder and want to see the greatest sunrise of your life. Oct 4, 2010

[Hide Comment] Maybe this will help someone else.

Had to bail at the top of the first pitch today. I had reached the 3rd eyebolt with a 60m rope in one pitch and rapped from there with a single 60m to the east bench from only fixed eye bolts. The last rap is pretty long and diagonal, so proceed with caution, but I made it without issues. As always knot your ends, bring 2 ropes on trad routes where you might have to bail, beware single point rap anchors and be prepared to leave gear. Sometimes you get lucky. Oct 9, 2010

[Hide Comment] I've done this route a whole bunch...and I rate the final pitch as 5.5 based on the route finding. The easiest line is probably 5.4, but not everyone finds the easiest line.

That being said, I've taken lots of nOObs up this during the old CMC/RMRG Rock Schools of the 1960s.

It's a climb that most people will NEVER FORGET! Most "stars" in the universe. Apr 30, 2011

[Hide Comment] Thought I would add this...I have personally confirmed twice that it is possible to do one mega 70m rappel from the summit using 2 70m ropes and still pull them without needing anyone to untie at the bolts. I'm not sure that this would work with 60m ropes, but maybe.

Instead of going west off the summit, throw the ropes off the south side like the normal descent. Keep going straight down past the party ledge and all the way to the ground with plenty of rope to spare. The trick to pulling the ropes is to scramble to the top of the large boulder to the southwest so you have a better angle for the pull. There is still quite a bit of rope drag, so you'll need some muscle to pull, but it's really not too bad if you have two guys to do it. Makes for a fun and simple way to get a lot of people down fast. Aug 29, 2011

[Hide Comment] I don't seem to be getting this fully (I'm not from this area maybe if I saw it that would clarify), but do you rap down the face you just climbed or off the back side of the route? Is there a supertopo out there for this route? Thanks! Jan 16, 2012

[Hide Comment] Patrick, the standard descent is three raps with a 50m (or longer) rope off the back side (facing west). Follow the chains, the first rap is only about 15m. Be careful to move to the northmost station for the third rappel, or a 50m or 60m rope won't reach. There are 2 fat bolts plus chains for each rappel (don't rappel off a single eye bolt, this is the long 40m rap off the last ledge).

You cannot (easily) rap back down the east face. Jan 17, 2012

[Hide Comment] Did it today in 4 pitches with a 70m rope. I would recommend the direct finish variation (5.5ish). Gorgeous climb. Sep 6, 2012

[Hide Comment] What is the descent for solists who don't want to rap? Do you downclimb the route or is there another downclimb? Oct 6, 2013

[Hide Comment] Sanz, you can downclimb Southwest Chimney, it's much shorter than downclimbing the route. May 12, 2014

[Hide Comment] Climbed this with my son yesterday. More free soloists on route than roped climbers. A great climb, as always, despite being quite easy. Used a 60 meter rope & skipped 1st eyebolt and went from last eyebolt to Kiddy Kar ledge in 1 pitch, but otherwise hit all the standard belays for 7 pitches total. Thought about doing it in less pitches but rope drag and sparse pro inspired me to stick to the classic route (mostly).

One note - if rapping off single rope anchor on Friday's Folly ledge, throw your rope over the western edge. We dropped our rope straight down the face & were going to flip it over to the west side, but it snagged & my son had to rap down, unsnag it, and then do a bit of a pendulum to the West Bench. Not a big deal but not the easiest way of doing it. Aug 11, 2014

[Hide Comment] Great climb and nobody on the rock in this nice December weather. Couldn't quite find the 5th class downclimb chimney off the back, but returning back down the route was pretty fun....
Dec 13, 2014

[Hide Comment] For a nice direct finish (shown in this ), from the last eye-bolt climb north down into the gully and up the other side, then head directly (west) towards the summit. This finishes on Extra Point or College Drop Out aka East Face North Side and is slightly harder than the standard route. The main problem is that you can't make it from the eye-bolt to the summit in one pitch, and there is a lack of intermediate belay anchors. We belayed maybe 50 feet after the eye bolt but still couldn't quite make the summit on the next pitch. Kiddy Car ledge might be the best belay option. Aug 17, 2015

[Hide Comment] PSA - Green's 2011 "Best Climbs, Denver and Boulder" guidebook shows (p. 53) this route starting approx. 300 feet lower than where it does at the East Bench. That erroneous photo led us on a 2 hour goosechase this morning. Absolutely inexcusable to F up the location of a classic route like that. Older guidebooks locate the route properly; Green is moving guidebook quality in the wrong direction. Aug 27, 2015

[Hide Comment] I did some rough measurements today between eye-bolts and here are the results. This has the correct location of all 6 eye-bolts. These numbers assume you follow a pretty straight line between eye-bolts.

Start to 1st eye-bolt: 15m.
Start to 2nd eye-bolt: 30m.
Start to 3rd eye-bolt: 60m (awkward belay, ledge under this eye-bolt was dynamited off).
3rd to 4th eye-bolt: 30m (4th eye-bolt has the best ledge).
Most people skip the 5th eye-bolt by going straight up from the 4th.
4th to 6th eye-bolt: 70m (also awkward, too bad this bolt wasn't placed 5m left above a ledge).
6th eye-bolt to summit: 80m.

This gives a total climb length of 240m. It also shows the problems with pitching this out using a 60m rope. The 3rd eye-bolt is not great to belay from, and you can't do 4th to 6th without a little simul-climbing (I don't think). The climb seems to work best if you never belay at an eye-bolt! Aug 28, 2015

[Hide Comment] Interesting! Why was a ledge dynamited off? Aug 31, 2016

[Hide Comment] Oddly enough, the Haas guidebook sends you up through the Bluebell Shelter/Royal Arch area for all approaches to the Third, but this is definitely not the quickest approach for the East Bench, which is where most parties are headed.

I've timed this, and I find approaching via the First/Second trail to be about 5 minutes faster. Moving at a fast pace without a pack, the Bluebell/Royal Arch approach took me 26 minutes, and the First/Second took 21 at a similar pace. Just head up as for the First/Second, continue past the base of the Second and turn right at the Third's approach trail that leads through the Satellites. Sep 21, 2016

[Hide Comment] Mehlissa: I believe the ledge was dynamited off by vandals who enjoy destroying natural features. Same kind of people who would paint a giant "CU" on the Flatiron, or write their name in permanent ink on the summit rocks.

Brendan: interesting timings, are you starting at Chatauqua in both cases? Or for the First/Second do you start from Gregory Canyon Trailhead? I know it is definitely faster to climb the First from Gregory Canyon, but that parking lot fills quickly. It is likely the guidebooks don't want to tell people to start at Gregory Canyon, because that trailhead is usually full, it would just make it worse. Sep 25, 2016

[Hide Comment] Climbed it this morning by starlight and headlamp. My partner and I believe we got the first ascent of the new year (we started at 2:00am and didn't see anyone else out there), let us know if someone beat us to it!! So fun to be out at night, eyebolts 3 and 5 proved harder to find in the dark, but it was just our second time on the wall. Fun morning - stayed for sunrise to usher in the new year. May become a new tradition!
Jan 1, 2017

[Hide Comment] Great rock, great views. Did in 5 pitches, just climbed until almost out of rope. Could easily find natural belay spots whenever we needed too. Nov 1, 2018

[Hide Comment] Is it possible to do the standard raps on a 40m cord? Does anyone know? Jul 30, 2019

[Hide Comment] Spectacular, very aesthetic route! Since this climb is being described as "probably the best beginner climb in the solar system," in the description, I would like to throw in my two cents for any beginner leaders who are considering climbing this route.

As far as our group's experience:
I climbed with my buddy who is a novice, this was his first multi-pitch. I consider myself an intermediate trad climber - I feel comfortable up to 5.8 and don't mind running out/soloing 5.5 if necessary. We completed the route in 6 pitches with a 70m, I'm sure you could with a 60m as well.

If you're a beginner and you choose not to solo, disregard the comment in the protection section above and bring a full rack (maybe even a couple doubles #0.5-#1 if you want to make sure you're plugging gear every chance you get). I barely used any passive pro, and I'm pretty sure I used all of my pieces #0.4-#3 at least once and was happy to have what I think I remember being my #1 to protect the step onto the face after crossing the channel on the first pitch (what I believe to be the real "crux" of the route). This first pitch is pretty much a traverse up until the second eye-bolt, and if you have a novice following, it's not a bad idea to throw a few pieces in before the step out of the channel onto the face to prevent a big swing if they fall.

I did the direct variation (crossing climber's right of the gully after the eyebolt to the right of the "C" on pitch 4, see the picture posted above). Big runnout on great, easy climbing. At the top of the notch, where the two variations rejoin, I could not find an eyebolt and used a bigger nut, a #3, and I think a #0.75 to build an awkward anchor on a ledge in a horizontal crack where tricams would have been more appropriate. All other belays on the climb were on an eyebolt, provided you stay on route.

Bring a couple of doubles and at least one quad length runner. After this stance is what some folks say is the "cruxy," runout, friction pitch. If you have a quad runner, you can sling a horn to protect this pitch and after that, in my opinion, this portion of the climb is not any more difficult or run-out than the rest. It's friction-y, sure, but the steepness quickly mellows out.

Three raps with the 70m, the first one is short. I may have gone the wrong way, but the bottom of the second rap brought me to two bolts on a vertical face that made for an uncomfortable, hanging transition to the third rappel. The two parties behind us joined forces, tied their two ropes together, and completed the descent in two rappels (rappelling from the second station with two ropes, you'd get your rope stuck if you tried from the first station). Not a bad idea!

All things considered, the majority of the route felt easier than 5.4 with a couple 5.4 "crux" moves. There are so many good holds, it's just a matter of finding them on the runout portions and throwing in pro when you have the chance. If you are confident placing trad gear, building anchors, and feel that you can stay level-headed on 30-foot runouts at this grade, climb this route.

You'll see lots of other people here. If you're slower and not simul-climbing, people will likely pass you. Just be respectful, and it should be reciprocated. Have fun! Sep 14, 2019

[Hide Comment] If you use the entire rope length, you can do this route in 4 pitches (with a 60m rope).

First pitch: do the traverse, slinging the eyebolts on either side of the gully, then belay from the third eyebolt (60m).
Second pitch: continue directly up, passing one eyebolt, built an anchor in a crack below the "C" that eats gear (60m).
Third pitch: go up to the eyebolt above the "C", then cross the gully to the right slab, and continue up. I slung a large chickenhead for an anchor (60m).
Fourth pitch: continue directly up the right slab to the summit (60m).

Also, if you're willing to run it out (a lot), if can be protected with only a single #1 C4, a #12 nut, and a few slings (i.e. 4 alpine draws). Aug 20, 2020

[Hide Comment] I soloed the Third seventeen times when I lived in Boulder in 1984. I downclimbed instead of rapping off. One time I kept track and tried to hurry: it was 102 minutes from my apartment round trip. I was NOT a very good climber (5.8 leader) but found it comfortable to solo the route and downclimb it (much harder). Beginners on the top would freak out when I'd head back down, since the hardest move is the first move going down. A few times I'd have a Guinness Stout at the top and a tiny hit. It would take an hour or more to come down enough to start back. What a fabuous climb! Jan 16, 2021

[Hide Comment] I've done 3 full moon climbs with a pancake breakfast at the top in the sunrise. This is a climb with tons of hand holds and eye bolts and so very safe if led properly. The free rappels off the back side are some of the best you will find. Watching the sun rise from the top is the best you'll find on the entire Front Range. It's been quite a while since those times but still at 67 years old very very memorable. Doing the full moon ascent is technically after the park is closed. Aug 18, 2021

[Hide Comment] Beautiful climb. Follow the waves of rock where the sun casts it's shadows. The downclimb on the backside is well worth its weight in gold. Nov 9, 2021

[Hide Comment] Not sure what people are on about in the comments with the rappel from the summit, but just so everyone knows, YOU CAN RAP FROM THE SUMMIT IN A TOTAL OF 2 PITCHeS WITH A 60 METER ROPE.

When rappeling from the summit, skip the second rappel anchors, and go another 40ish feet down to the shelf bellow. You will find the 3rd rappel anchors on the far left of the shelf (far left if you are looking directly at the wall). The 3rd (and final) rappel off the west side of the shelf to the anchors. If using a 60m, you will most likely have some rope to spare for both raps, but the first rappel you will be cutting it a little close. No reason to worry though, just so you're not surprised. Aug 25, 2022

[Hide Comment] Re: Joseph Gillcrist:

Yes, you can combine the first two rappels. You can also get your rope stuck pulling the rope after combining these rappels. I too used to combine the first 2 raps when I started climbing the 3rd. Then my rope got stuck pulling. 7 days ago I freed a party's stuck rope after thinking they could combine the two rappels. If you want to be damn sure to get your rope down, maybe do the 3 rappels. Aug 25, 2022

[Hide Comment] Just did this route and went up the gash instead of the face. Really fun scrambling in there, and the difficulty is comparable, but it has a caving vibe. Good way to mix it up. You can duck in right next to the top of the C by the eye bolt. Aug 24, 2023

[Hide Comment] It's as good as everyone says it is. We climbed on a beautiful October Monday morning - started climbing at sunrise with no one else around. Joined by my teenage son, who likes climbing but is a bit scare of lots of exposure, so this was his first multi-pitch. Worked out great - the climb is easy (but still challenging enough to keep your senses going in a few places), and the views are great with enough exposure to get used to multi-pitch but without causing too much fear. A perfect blend of everything. Oct 16, 2023

[Hide Comment] The route and features get better and better the higher you climb, what a blast! If traveling in a larger party, I found the gear belays to the left of the eye-bolts much more spacious and comfortable with only a single rack being necessary. I think we only ended up belaying from one of the bolts before the top. Nov 5, 2023

[Hide Comment] 1 double rope rap with a 60m, will bring you off the summit if you go west... also if you are up there solo with a rope for the decent and you ask people nicely, you can tie the rope into the bolts and do a single rope rap the the ground while having them untie the rope and drop it for you... that saves a lot of time! I used to do this before I got comfortable on the downclimb. Dec 7, 2023

[Hide Comment] My buddy Pete German and I spent the night on top on the 4th of July circa 1978. We were launching pop bottle rockets off the top that night…what were we thinking?! Jun 25, 2024

[Hide Comment] One of my favorite cruises in the area. It can get crowded, and the pitches are short if not linked, so be prepared for a log jam. For the newer leader, like any Flatiron climbing, it has the potential to be a little runout in spots, but the climbing is never hard. FYI: accessing the first rap chains are pretty funky, IMO, as they involve a very exposed scramble down to get situated without a great ledge to stand on. If bringing you are up a newer climber, it might be better to lower them off of an anchor topside to the ledge below as opposed to them trying to reach the chains and falling. Oct 11, 2024