Avg: 3.9 from 1,580
votes
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
This is it. THE classic red rocks route. And it's just as good as everyone says it is.
Approach as for the Black Velvet Wall. After climbing around the chockstone, return to the stream bed and walk another minute or two upstream. The bolts on the first pitch will be easily spotted on the left.
This route has lost some of the original seriousness now that bolted anchors have been placed all the way up. This speeds things up considerably and provides an easy retreat if needed. You'll need two ropes if you intend to rap the route.
The original description had 18 pitches. If you use the bolted belay anchors you can climb Epinephrine in 11 or 12 pitches. This description will assume that you use the bolted belays. It's hard to remember precisely how long (or how many!) pitches are on this route, but I'll do my best.
Pitch 1: Climb out of the creekbed past bolts to a big ledge (5.8). Continue on past a couple more bolts to a bushy ledge. (165 feet, 5.8)
Pitch 2: Work up and left into a chimney, then pull out the right side and work up easier rock to the base of the big chimney that forms the right side of the Black Tower.(165 feet?, 5.7). May need some rope stretch here.
Pitch 3: The main event: chimney up a wide crack with good pro to a ledge on the right wall with bolts. (140', 5.9)
Pitch 4: Chimney up and swing left as the crack narrows. Climb easier rock to a good ledge. Belay or continue on up into a narrower chimney with a fixed nut at the base and then two bolts. The bolts can be hard to spot - you need to work away from the back of the chimney to find them. If you have enough rope you can belay at the top of the Black Tower. Otherwise belay at the top of the chimney and do a short easy pitch to the tower's top. You can avoid the lower part of the chimney on the right. (165', 5.9)
Pitch 5: Climb the face above the top of the tower, passing an overhang, aiming at a brushy ledge. (150', 5.8)
Pitch 6: Traverse easily right to the Elephant's Trunk. Ascend this to a ledge at its top. (80', 5.6)
Pitch 7: Climb up the crack system (some bolts) to a bolted belay at a ledge. (90', 5.8+) (can be combined with Pitch 6). The rap route goes straight down from here, avoiding pitches 5 and 6.
Pitches 8 - 10: Continue up the same crack system, stopping at the bolted belays. A short traverse right (bolt) is found on pitch 10 before an easy roof (good gear, use jugs left of crack). (400', 5.8+)
Pitch 11: Either rap the route or continue to the top of the crack. There is no rap anchor at the top of the pitch, though you'll see some bolts with missing hangers where there used to be an anchor. You can use a full 70m rope (and maybe some simul climbing) to get to the bolts at the top of the first 4th class section (see route exit below).
Route exit: You've finished the 5th class climbing, but you're not done yet. There is about 600 feet of 4th class/5.2 slab that you need to climb. If you feel bold, you may choose to unrope and free-solo, or you and your partner can simulclimb the rest of the way up. Otherwise, you can build anchors and place a little gear as you go.
Follow the right leaning ramp all the way to the very top. It ends just after turning into a very well defined right-facing dihedral, where you might find yourself mantling on the face behind you as you climb. If you are doing this part of the climb at night, you'll want to keep an eye out for an "exit" to the right, after passing through the dihedral section. You'll arrive at a large ledge at the top of the dihedral. If you try to keep going straight up, you'll encounter a 12 foot sandy/sometimes-wet "wall". Don't climb that wall.
You'll step right 30 feet, and make a few moves to turn a corner.
Keep in mind that for this entire ramp section, you'll not be able to see the famous pine tree or 4th class exit-pitch. Just keep trending up and right.
Once you round the corner, you'll come to a very large sandy ledge protected by a roof. Proceed along the ledge, take the rightward facing ramp that's plainly visible ahead, and congratulate you and your partner for a job well done.
Descent: follow cairns along the ridge leading east from the summit. There are a lot of cairns - if you miss them back track until you get back on the right trail. The route will eventually drop left towards Whiskey Peak at the top of Frogland.
Logistics: Getting a pack through the chimney pitches is a pain - go light and bring a long sling to trail the pack when needed. The route gets almost no sun so you can go fairly light on water. Get an early start and move fast! Most of the climbing is 5.7 - 5.8. If you can avoid wasting time at the belays you should be able to get up in a day without too much effort. A competent party can easily get up in 8 hours. Figure on about 1 - 1.5 hours in descent. Don't leave gear at the base of the route if you choose to walk down - it's a long way out of the way to go back to the base.
The last restroom is on the turnoff from the highway. Consider bringing a poop bag. In Jan 2021 a Nalgene full of poop exploded in the chimneys: https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/120220349/epinephrine-conditions
If the chimney pitches were in Yosemite they would be 5.7. This isn't the Steck-Salathe! 5.9 is consistent with other Las Vegas ratings though.
Here's the step by step descent by Jon P (thanks!)
1. Head up to the summit of Black Velvet peak by rounding the big lone pine tree at the top of the route and scrambling which quickly eases into hiking. Enjoy the view of Las Vegas.
2. When looking out at Las Vegas from Black Velvet Peak, turn to face your 4:00 (right and slightly behind you), seeing another very large peak connected by a ridge and saddle. Follow this ridge, dropping down the saddle, and make your way up to the top of the large peak.
3. Once at the summit of the 2nd tall peak, look to your 8:00 (left and slightly behind) to see another ridge heading toward Hwy 160.
4. Scramble down the large peak to obtain this next ridge. Stay as high as safely possible as you follow the ridge which is sporadically marked with cairns.
5. Connect the dots along the ridge, hitting 3 or 4 more peaks as you follow the ridge. Only one of the peaks does not have a cairn on it but continue high on the ridge heading to the top of each peak.
6. You'll know when you are at the final peak because it has 4 or 5 very stout closely spaces cairns on it. It is obvious! If you are unsure then you are not there yet!
7. Once on top of the peak with the 4 or 5 big cairns, head left and down following the many cairns along the way. If you head down and do not see cairns, you are going the wrong way.
8. Get dumped into the Whisky Peak gully decent (turn right when you come to the fork) and continue down behind Frogland, following trails and cairns which are heading in the direction of Hwy 160. There are multiple trails going down this decent and they all seem to meet up eventually.
9. Upon exiting the gully, curve around whisky peak following the trail that curves left.
10. The decent trail back to the parking lot is several hundred feet before Frogland, marked with a large cairn sitting on top of a large boulder.
Set of cams from fingers to #4 with doubles in the 1-3" range. Set of stoppers. At least 8 draws (more if linking pitches).
You don't need anything bigger than a #4 camalot in the chimney pitches.
LVMPD Search & Rescue responds to assist lost, stranded, and injured persons, to include fatalities relating to climbing and hiking accidents. In Black Velvet Canyon, specifically on the route Epinephrine, LVMPD Search & Rescue has seen a substantial increase in rescues. We are asking for your assistance to reduce the number of these types of calls.
Climbers please prepare for a full day of climbing with overnight provisions. Know your limitations and have the ability to retreat from the climb.
There is an Emergency Cache at the top of the peak. The cache may include some overnight supplies, but is not to be relied upon. This is strictly for emergency situations. Instructions will be listed on the outside.
The “walk off” from where Epinephrine tops out has been geo referenced. This is a guide, you are still responsible for your actions. There are no rappels.
Geo Map Instructions:
A PDF map has been designed for use on your GPS-enabled mobile device and can be viewed on any PDF reader. When viewed in an installed mobile map application, each map is designed so that your location can be displayed on screen in real time. Geo referenced map applications allow you to navigate using your mobile device’s GPS even without cellular reception. There are a variety of geo referenced PDF apps available for Apple and Android devices. Consult the mobile app instructions for complete information on how to use.
Go into the App Store, Download AVENZA MAPS.
Date: 5/14/2018. No warranty is made from LVMPD or Mountain Project as to the accuracy, reliability, or completeness of this data for individual use or aggregate use with other data.
Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Boulder, CO
If you are unsure of your ability to do this route in a day, one good strategy is to start in the afternoon (when the route is empty, hopefully) and climb just the chimney pitches, then rap off. This way you will have familiarity with those chimneys and will be able to do them quickly. The climbing above the chimneys is virtually all face climbing and feels much easier even though there is still some 5.9. Mar 9, 2004
Boulder, CO
Best to go fast and light on this route. Packs just get in the way on the chimney pitches. If you think you'll be slow, then climb it in May when the days are long and the temps are pretty reasonable in Black Velvet. The upper pitches have lots of 5.9 sections on the topo, but this part of the climb is a breeze and goes quickly. Mar 9, 2004
Boulder, CO
I think the supertopo is pretty accurate and we took the ST route through the chimneys without really knowing what it is. Here's my revised description:
End P1 at the rap anchor (5.8, 180')
End P2 at the next rap anchor (5.7, 160')
P3 goes up relatively easy cracks below the chimney and then traverses into the main part of the chimney. Head for a ledge on the right with the next rap anchor. Work out to ledges below the anchor rather than stay at the back near the end of the pitch. (5.9, 120')
P4 uses the most wide gear - a #2 and #3 camalot for sure; the #11 hex or #3.5 camalot for the more gripped leader. Pass a bolted anchor on the right and pull through a wide section by swinging out left. At a big ledge, work up and right outside of the chimney to the rap bolts on another good ledge. (5.9. 120')
P5 traverses back left to the first bolt and then on up. This avoids the 5.9 part of the pitch by the fixed nut since you don't have to burrow way the hell back into the bowels of the chimney. (5.9, 130')
I'd double the #2 camalot to make the chimneys a bit easier to protect. We never felt a #4 was needed. Place smaller gear whenever you can and save the big stuff for where it's needed.
Don't wear shorts!
Judging by the number of late night headlamp sightings a lot of people ought to have started earlier or climbed faster :-).
John Mar 24, 2004
Boulder, CO
The most troublesome part is the finish, which seems to indicate that you will be coming back towards the base of the climb, under the Black Velvet Wall (can the descent be done in this manner?). It is much easier to head straight for the parking lot, passing nowhere near the base of the climb.
Anyway the best advice is to go all the way to the top of Black Velvet Peak, and then travel "Long Way Along Ridge", farther than you think, before dropping off to the left and then heading more or less towards your car, not the base of the route. All of this should be pretty well cairned by now, but you can still get screwed by leaving the ridge too soon. Apr 17, 2004
nyc
w/ 60m rope:p1 up past bolts past ledge to anchors. p2 up again, see description, etc etcp3 first chimney pitch, great protection, you can walk cams up with you and feel completely safe.p4 the not as well protected chimney pitch. and if youre a wuss like me, and stay burrowed in the depths of the crack so you can pretend to place pro, you need a lot of long runners, or you end up with heinous rope drag. like i did. and if you try to break for the anchor at the top-right of the tower, you wont make it with a 60. we had to simulclimb for 20 feet, which i hated with tricep-straining rope drag and not a small degree of griptitude. next time, id stay out of the squeeze-depths, clip the bolts that are hard to find, on both sides of the chimney, and break for the second anchor you come across.p5 would be a short chimney to the anchor at the top-right of the tower, IIRC, and a short clamber left to the anchor at the top of the black tower.p6 link three swain pitches, i think. climb up, pull a little overhang, bear right, and climb up the elephant trunk crack until you hit an anchor. p7- link two pitches following the crack. despite the fact that this crack woul take gear every two feet, you actually clip bolts every eight feet except fro the last 20 feet of the pitch. i have no idea why.p8- link two more pitches, following the crack. end below the roof.p9- short pitch. pull over the roof on the right, admire the deep rope-grooves from decades of climbing, and belay right there to avoid bad rope drag.p10- 5.6 straight up takes you to the ramp system.
ramps- well, you could unrope, i guess. there are a few moves of 5th class, and a few 4th class places where if you slipped on the gravel, or popped a hold, you'd end up in the drainage. if you stay roped, there are three or four 'pitches' of no-pro speedy travel.
descent- basically, from the pine trees at the top of the climb, hike away from teh canyon towards the big peak with big cairns on top. then follow the ridge left for a long ways. when the cairns dissapears, run around in small circles until you find the descent drops off left. follows cairns to a big slab. cairns here must have been washed/rocked off. look below, and youll see them again. cairns all the way from the peak to the main trail for the parking lot. if you dont see any, youre off. thats the best advice, i think. Apr 26, 2004
nyc
there appears to be a bolt missing from what i assume was an anchor above the 5.9 roof high on teh climb, below the last bit of (5.6?) climbing. there was one good bolt with an SMC hanger, one big bolt hole, and one 1/4" bolt with no hanger. you can still build an anchor with bomber nuts a few feet back, and tying off the bolt, and/or or the chickenhead above, but i thought it might be worth mentioning.
also, the sole bolt above that anchor (on the next pitch) has a nut, but is missing the hanger. its a 3/8" bolt next to a 1/4" bolt with no hanger, or just chopped, cant remember. Apr 26, 2004
Lyons, CO
I don't recall any 5.9 climbing above the chimneys either. Lots of 5.6 - 5.7 and some 5.8.
On the approach, someone has fixed a rope on the wall in the gully (where you are forced to exit the streambed to the left) making it easy to batman up and stay in the streambed. Enjoy it while it lasts.
Good descent beta here. Thanks. Sep 9, 2004
Arvada
Salt Lake City
Also, the 5th (last) pro bolt on that second pitch off the Elephant's Trunk (right below the anchor) is an old 1/4" Urioste bolt which is missing its hanger. THere is a good small nut placement nearby, and we didn't have enough bolts to replace it. Apr 23, 2007
Salt Lake City, UT
Just a note: The last pitch (before the ramp to the summit) is missing bolt hangers... a trad anchor is easily set up with two #3 and a #4 camalot.
Peter, It was great to meet you and Brian in the chimney! Apr 16, 2008
Fort Collins, CO
The chimney pitches were just the price of admission for the unbelievable upper pitches.
Do not underestimate the descent.... We did car to car in 12 hours and I'm confident that we spent 3 hours of that on the descent.
~Team Gold Bond Apr 30, 2008
Castle Rock, CO
FYI on the descent: From the true summit it took us 30 minutes hiking at a casual pace to walk the ridge before heading down. There were a couple cairned spots that 'looked' like where to head down, but DON"T TAKE THEM! The descent took 1hr 45min stopping occasionally to rest our sore toes. =) May 19, 2008
We had a blast and if you're intersted there could still be a #5 cam on the 3rd chimney pitch. After 1/2 hr, we couldn't get it out. My biggest concern was that we'd need it for higher up and thankfully didn't BUT I AM GLAD WE HAD THE BIGGER GEAR. Never climbed a 5.9 chimney before (and could hardly believe the comment that this would be 5.7 in Yosemite) so I guess we gotta practice somemore. dEspite that we did well though slowly and did end up bivying on a ledge several ramps down from the top. Though not cozy it was spectacular...Vegas sparkled like a jewel at night and gorgeous sunrise in the am. Turned out to be just another great part of the climb of this amzing climb. dOWNSIde was that we had drank all but a cup and a half of water by the time we bivied and had to save it for the descent out the next day. Thank god for gas station chips and gatorade at the end.
Thanks to all the people who offered advice on how much water to carry and how during the summer months plus when to start. It was everything and MORE!!!!! Aug 10, 2008
Boise, ID
North Carolina
Washington, DC
June Lake, CA
I'm not sure where the classic-ness of this climb comes from but I've climbed many other routes that were much higher quality than Epinephrine and far less praised by the climbing community. Are you all just jumping on the band wagon or are you all just that oblivious to what good climbing should feel like? Or maybe you really do like this route (which is ok)- but why? The chimneys? Sandy, awkward CRAP! The never-ending patina face climbing? Cool for a pitch but then otherwise, CRAP! The length? This can not be the determining factor of quality and can not make up for the otherwise CRAP CLIMBING! The exposure or the view? Good, but again can not make up for the CRAP CLIMBING!
I say these things not to be negative but to give another perspective on the quality of this route because I do not want other climbers to be duped into climbing this "ultra-classic" as I was without first knowing all the ("ultra-crappy") facts. Jan 13, 2010
Las Vegas, NV
Jason Jan 16, 2010
Washington, DC
Nevada
Then its an awesome route, just imagine if you were free soloing. Thinking this is totally possible and would be a ton of fun. Yet you are still glad you got a rope. :) Mar 12, 2010
Flagstaff, AZ
The crux for us was that the final 4th class traverse pitch to the tree was covered in ice! Since we got a late start and got stuck behind another party, we did this section in the dark. very exciting.
I have to say that the descent was not as bad as people are saying in the comment thread. None of us had done it before, and it only took us 2 hours in the dark, including a false start.
also, the #4 and #5 were nice to have in the chimneys
fun route! Mar 12, 2010
Pittsboro...sort of, NC
Pittsboro...sort of, NC
I was going off of this map from the Los Alamos Mountaineers site (it is the 2nd PDF topo map on the linked website) for the decent. This map called the peak right behind the Black velvet wall "Whiskey Peak". Are you saying that this map is mislabeled and "Whiskey Peak" should be the true summit of "Black Velvet Peak"? Anyway, sorry if that was inaccurate, but even if the names are not correct, this map was basically what we did.
Thanks
Chris
lamountaineers.org/NAC/brow… lamountaineers.org/NAC/brow… Mar 31, 2010
Las Vegas, NV
Bali, ID
Solo the 5.4 variation to start. Link pitches 1 and 2 with a touch of simuling, belaying at the beginning of the .9 chimneys.
Climb 3 chimney pitches. don't stop at the alternative belay about 80 feet into the second chimney pitch.
From the top of the tower, climb to the top of the elephants perch (no simuling).
Link the next two pitches of richter face and crack climbing. From this belay, the leader will lead through the "5.9 roof with jugs on the left" as noted in the Supertopo (felt easier than 5.9 earlier on the route) with about 50 feet of simuling. From here, you will have a 5.6 pitch, then the fourth class ramp to the top. You can simul this easily, just don't run all 70 meters of the rope out or the drag will be a killer.
The descent is not a big deal, follow the 8 million carins. No need for anything over a #4 cam. We did car to car in 10 hours, descent in flip flops. Apr 19, 2010
Boise, ID
I brought a #4 and was happy to have it for one placement in one of the chimneys, but you could probably do without it if you're comfortable in the chimneys. I never felt like I needed a #5.
The descent was much easier than I thought it would be. I just followed the "don't descend too soon" advice and it went smoothly. The route is extremely well marked with cairns. You will know it is time to descend when you are directly above (actually almost past) Whiskey Peak.
Get an early start! We were at the base of the route at about 6:20am, and we were the 4th party in line. We probably wasted close to 3 hours waiting for the groups in front of us on the chimney pitches. No matter though, once above the chimneys all groups climbed quickly and we still topped out before dark. Apr 19, 2010
Like others have said. Get to the top of Epie and keep going up hill until you're on top of Black Velvet Peak. An obvious ridgeline will be headed toward the city (East'ish). The ridge will be marked with carins ever so often. Follow the carins allllll the way down the ridge line (headed toward the parking lot). You will go up and down a few different "peaks", but just keep walking. The dreaded "too early" decent is easily recognizable because the actual decent you want does not drop down a steep narrow canyon.
At almost the very end of the ridge there is a really large double stack of carins marking the start of the decent. The trail follows LEFT. Again, this is not a narrow canyon...yet. Descend left toward a lower peak which is Whisky Peak. Once on the saddle between the two peaks continue descending to the Right. Carins are abundant and just keep waking down hill. May 7, 2010
With a 400' rope we cleaned it up in six pitches and simul-climbed the 4th class at the top, very fast this way. The descent isn't bad just keep heading east as far as you can until you see three very obvious cairns right next to each other that mark the descent. May 12, 2010
Boulder, CO
CO
Grand Junction
1. Start early, we hiked in under dark and easily found the base before light by headlamp. Waited for first light and went.
2. The only pitches we linked were 1 & 2
3. The second main chimney pitch felt like the crux for me. The first main chimney pitch had mostly crack climbing until the last 20-30 ft of #4 C4 size to the belay. Also, the 3rd main chimney pitch however a little runout had amazing foot/face holds on the outer wall making it less grueling than the 2nd chimney. There was a constriction about half way up the pitch that made it hard to make upward progress.
4. The upper pitches are awesome. If you can get through the chimney's the upper pitches will be a breeze. I really like the 2 right above the elephants trunk.
5. Stay roped up for the ramp but simul and belay as needed from drag.
6. We carried a single rack to #4 C4 with doubles of .75, 1, 2 which was plenty. Bring 6ish trad draws to extend your pieces but this will be plenty of gear for the chimney's. Maybe an additional #4 if you really are concerned with the chimney pitches.
The descent, head across to the main summit and follow the ridge line over several small peaks until you get to the crest with multiple (3-4) large cairns, at this point head down (left) in the gully towards Whiskey Peak (we did Frogland a couple days before to familiarize ourselves with the lower half of the gully). The hardest part for us was following the ridgeline before turning into the gully towards Whiskey. Try and stay as close to the ridge as you can with a few detours down the back side. Once you make the turn into the gully towards Whiskey the trail was very easy to follow.
In regards to whether this is a classic or not, get out and do it and make your own choice. For me this route carried an aura around it and it was everything I hoped it would be. From the chimney's to the dihedrals above in my opinion its well worth doing and a really awesome day and summit in RR. Start early and be first! Oct 18, 2011
Duluth, MN
1. Head up to the summit of Black Velvet peak by rounding the big lone pine tree at the top of the route and scrambling which quickly eases into hiking. Enjoy the view of Vegas.
2. When looking out at Las Vegas from Black Velvet peak, turn to face your 4:00 (right and slightly behind you), seeing another very large peak connected by a ridge and saddle. Follow this ridge, dropping down the saddle, and make your way up to the top of the large peak.
3. Once at the summit of the 2nd tall peak, look to your 8:00 (left and slightly behind) to see another ridge heading toward hwy 160.
4. Scramble down the large peak to obtain this next ridge. Stay as high as safely possible as you follow the ridge which is sporadically marked with cairns.
5. Connect the dots along the ridge, hitting 3 or 4 more peaks as you follow the ridge. Only one of the peaks does not have a cairn on it but continue high on the ridge heading to the top of each peak.
6. You will know when you are at the final peak because it has 4 or 5 very stout cairns on it closely spaced. It is obvious! If you are unsure then you are not there yet!
7. Once on top of the peak with the 4 or 5 big cairns, head left and down following the many cairns along the way. If you head down and do not see cairns, you are going the wrong way.
8. Get dumped into the whisky peak gully decent (turn right when you come to the fork) and continue down behind Frogland, following trails and cairns which are heading in the direction of hwy 160. There are multiple trails going down this decent and they all seem to meet up eventually.
9. Upon exiting the gully, curve around whisky peak following the trail that curves left.
10. The decent trail back to the parking lot is several hundred feet before Frogland, marked with a large cairn sitting on top of a large boulder.
+++
We did this decent in the dark (with headlamps, of course) and it took about 3 hours as we took our time. It was not hard as the ridge is backlit from the city and you just need to follow the ridge, obtaining each peak until you come to the peak with a ton of large cairns. We kept second guessing ourselves, but there was no need. It is obvious when you are on the right peak that marks the decent into the Whiskey Peak Gully. Nov 30, 2011
Colorado Springs, CO
California
Toronto, ON
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
We were up on Epi last week with a couple parties above us. Finally started at 9am. Waited for a bailing party to rap past us slowing us slightly, then some strenuous chimneying for inexperienced chimneyers (we're 6'+ tall face climbers ;). Lots of knees were used in narrow chimney, ouch! (Yes we need practice ;) That slowed us down a fair bit, top of tower by like 130-2pm (yeah, slow). Much easier face climbing there on out, several pitches are quite long however. Topped out at 645pm, took a few minutes to be convinced we found the traverse/hike out up and right, big pine tree by 745 after sunset. Getting dark.
Found the top of the local peak and went along the saddle to the higher peak (BV?) slightly south. Milled around and went from cairn to cairn around big dropoffs on either side, and basically got lost til a cairn led us down a small chimney under a giant boulder to a platform and a few more cairns down some steep vegetated slab to the left/east. 830pm by this point at least. A few more slides down from boulder to boulder and a few cairns and we realised we were probably in the wrong gully.
The gully goes down steep and a bit slow, but doable, mostly dirt, vegetation and a few areas of boulders. Annoying pointy trees and cactii, occasional cairns help with multiple choices, but it all just leads down to the same canyon wash.
Eventually you get down to sloped rock shaped by water. Truly beautiful and a bit surreal with the small pools in our headlamps. At the first hangup edge where a pool drops off into the abyss, a steep way down is available far left with the help of a tree. Once down, you again come to a narrows with a pool emptying over a curved edge into more void. A beachball sized chokestone is jammed into a 3' groove on the left side near the mouth/edge, and we were about to rap off it, but a new beefy bolt is right above it with a ratty looped sling. We donated another sling and a couple biners and rapped over the bulge down to a platform 30 feet. Another sling with a single ring is wrapped around a small tree, but we opted to not use it and continued over the next edge to a ledge just above a large pool (3-4' deep water!)
If you are careful you can both not drop your whole rope neither into the pool nor into the trickle trough in the ledge above the pool you rap to, as well as pull your rope hard over the rough but dull rock above (total rap is 50-60'). To get around the pool scramble up left and back down (or rap in for a swim :). If you actually get to this spot, please take a picture, the collection of pools around the large one jammed in between curving smooth canyon walls is incredibly beautiful. We were just too freaked to think about it at the time.
Now it'll seem you're hung up again, and you may follow a couple pieces of human-dropped trash out to the left and up more slab, which brings you way too high above the gully floor below also heading left but down. Go right instead where the cairn is at the far right side of the pool at the edge, and the lower gully floor is not too far below after a couple 5.2 moves onto a manmade pile of stepping stones. Continue fighting down through thick trees boulder hopping. Nothing drastic or hard from this point down, just annoying slow progress thru thick vegetation at times.
At one point with the slight S curves of the canyon, it looked like big black walls all around us with no way out - but eventually the walls move away and behind you and the horizon lights up with the city's glow. Found cairns for a cross trail out of the wash to the left back to BVC but lost them within a few hundred yards. Just kept angling towards below BVC's mouth deciding that if all else failed we'd hike back up in to find the trail. A couple official bike paths cut across this line but go kinda the wrong ways (up hill north west or down south east), til we found another that took us northish 300y to the main trail (which is really a big wide dirt road, hard to miss).
Finally hit the car at 130am. Lol. 24h mexican @ Main & LVB saved us (after first drinking about a gallon of water each).
This descent method is not recommended - total was almost 5 hours.
Car to car with ~2h wait for other climbers total and a totally busted wrong descent + [INSERT EPIC ADVENTURE HERE]: 18.5 hrs.
Brought 5.5l of water for 2 people, on an 85F day in the city with 65-70 on the route in the shade (and again 70 in the lower half of the canyon descent, quite warm once off the top) we really shoulda had another 2 litres for bare min, and +3-4 woulda been comfy.
Im so curious what the right route down is, but from BVP we headed along the ridge AWAY from the city to circle around the big cirque to the far side, but kept getting hung up over drop offs til the chimney-down-under-the-boulder cairn misled us :/ Apr 22, 2012
Flagstaff, AZ
Be very familiar with the route description for the walk off and plan for it to take awhile. Bring enough water (we didn't), shoes (I had sandals) and a good headlamp to spot carins in case you have an evening topout.
Many people say they'd skip the finish and rap after the chimney pitches. I can inderstand the thought behind this but I also pity those people. They don't get to experience the stunning rock features of final pitches, the special feeling that comes from finishing on top, and completing a great accomplishment.
We did it early October 2011 and it was nice for temps. For me, it was a smaller chimney then I imagined and found the offwidth crack deep inside to be quite useful.
Note: I recommend printing off Jon P's descent directions, they didn't exist when I did it. :) Jul 4, 2012
Las Vegas, NV
n az
2- the chimneys are tough and serious and awesome, I know it is important to downgrade everything to stoke the ego, 5.7 in the valley, blah blah, but these chimneys are a grunt and SOLID 9....
3- along the same lines, the yapping about how it is all a walk after the chimneys, all 5.7, is also inaccurate. Those pitches are fabulous, but they still take some effort and the grades listed in handren are real.... Go figure.
4- the descent is not 1.5 hours from the tree to your car unless you run it or are very very good or know it really well. The rest of us, in the dark (in winter most likely you'll be in the dark, again unless very very good or you really know this route) plan on 3 hours...
5- whoever put bits of reflective tape to guide nighttime descents is a really fine human being! Dec 9, 2012
California
the road
Toronto, ON
How do you clip apples to your harness? :) Jan 30, 2013
St. George, Utah
Bali, ID
For Epinepherine, follow the 1001 carins down. If you link pitches and don't have a bunch of gumbies on the route, it can be done in 7 or 8 pitches and you can be down by mid afternoon.
Near the top of the route, there are several bolts missing hangers and at the belay above the 5.9 (5.8 in Handren) roof, it looks like a bolt has been fully removed and something etched in the rock "Love me somthingsomthing"
Agreed with Killing in the name of, this is not a good route for newbies or people just breaking into the grade of 5.9. Did this route Friday and sure enough some dude brought his girlfriend up, who could not climb chimneys, and a 3 hour swearing/yelling/crying/arguing session ensued, tainting what was otherwise a great day of climbing. If you or your partner can't climb at the grade, stay at home and don't muck it up for the people who can climb chimneys at that grade. Apr 24, 2013
Marbach
Sorry folks, but you really can't miss the descent!!!!
We made it in something less than 9 hours car to car and we were baked in the sun from the start till the end (ok not in the chimneys.......... Who the hell said starting early is recommended??????
Great big Sandbag in the chimneys but a real funny climb overall.....
In Switzerland we call surfaces like these walls Highways........ but they are horizontal not vertical:-) May 12, 2013
n az
Lost my left approach shoe in the chimneys, a la sportiva vertical K size 11 with one small foot minder orthotic and black running sock inside. Yes I can confirm the descent sucks in 1 climbing shoe and one approach shoe. Anyway,
REWARD: $25 plus postage plus the best six pack money can buy if you get me the shoe. Its super light and packs easily. So please take it with you. Lost it somewhere before pitch 5..... Thanks! Jun 25, 2013
Las Vegas, NV
Durango, Colorado
Salt Lake City
If you haven't heard... the descent sucks. It took us just over 2 hours at a casual pace without any issues finding the route. Just a long way and lots of vertical. If I do this route again my strategy would be much different:
I would start later in the morning. There are way too many parties jumping on this thing from before the crack of dawn til 8ish. If you are fast and confident you could start at 10 or 11 and have plenty of time. I would recommend half ropes and rappel just before the 5.8+ or 5.9 roof because there is no anchor up there. Not having to do the long descent means no shoes and less water. You could probably not bring a pack up and that's a huge plus for the chimney pitches.
Finally... practice chimneys before you jump on this. You should be comfortable on 5.10 terrain, and comfortable 15+ feet above your gear on 5.9 terrain. This will make the route so much faster and smoother. Iron Messiah in Zion is a great practice route for Epi Apr 24, 2014
Toronto, Ontario
Worth mentioning, it was Monday, May 5 and we were totally alone on the route that day.
My partner was experienced, and we climbed reasonably well, but weren't the most efficient at belays (mostly on me). I think we were on the wall for 13 hours total.
When we ended the last pitch, we were surprised by the remaining vertical distance (the rest of the wall is somewhat out of sight for much of the actual climb before this point). The Brock/McMillan book isn't really clear that, if you're going to roped in, that scramble can take an additional hour. We were also not used to climbs of this length and cutting it so close at sunset.
We topped out and unroped right as the sun disappeared. Our descent topo wasn't as good as it needed to be considering we summited in complete darkness and had some trouble working out which peak we were supposed to head towards. We actually skipped the Black Velvet peak and scrambled next to the ridge, chances are there are cairns on the actual ridge leading to the next peak which would have helped out with our confidence level considerably and sped the routefinding up.
Descent took probably near 3 hours because my legs were toast and it was pitch black, I'd guess 1.5 hours in daylight with good route finding (not that hard) and some energy. Tons of cairns, almost nowhere without. If you go 30 seconds without seeing one you're probably off route. Descent from the ridge itself is marked with a dozen cairns.
We had a full rack of Camalots to #5 with doubles in #1 and #2. Used everything often. My partner didn't feel comfortable with runout in the chimneys and suck to the protectable inner area, but the climbing is substantially harder there. Only a 5.9+ in my book because of that. Jun 8, 2014
Las Vegas, NV
Las Vegas, Nevada
As mentioned above, this is not the climb to learn multi-pitch, definitely not the climb to practice your chimney game and not the climb for breaking into the 5.9 grade. The chimneys are stunning but serious, and the route is long. We also chose to not carry a pack and were plenty happy about it, although these chimneys would not be the worst to haul a pack. We built gear anchors atop the last two pitches. For the second to last anchor I climbed about 20 feet above the ledge with the one good bolt and one good bolt hole and built an anchor on a small ledge. Also, we found the descent well-marked and straightforward. The three cairn piles that mark the descent down from the ridge are HUGE. Oct 25, 2014
Boston, Ma
Chattanooga, TN
What a good time!! This is definitely a Red Rock Classic, well worth the effort. Car to car was 12 hours, with about 8.5 hours of climbing.
The chimneys were strenuous, but part of that was my poor technique. My favorite part of the climb was the 5.9 section after the Elephant's trunk. Amazing. The runout 5.7/easy 5.9 roof pull was pretty fun as well.
Great day. Mar 19, 2015
San Francisco, CA
1. When you get to the ledge on the second chimney, clip the intermediate anchor and then another bolt about six feet up and right from that one and do the 5.6 variation towards the outside of the chimney. Much easier. I have no idea why ST has this as "x" rated.
2. The belay at the top of the last 5.9 pitch (after the bulge) has one bolt and then a massive hole where the other one used to be. Just head up the ramp a little and there's a perfect crack for a trad anchor. Also, the 5.7R section of that pitch isn't even close to "R". There are way more run out sections on the route that that one.
3. The fourth class step across at the top of the exit ramp is easy but remember that you've been climbing for about eight hours at that point and are exhausted. A fall from there would involve a single bounce off the slab then a 1,500 free fall to the canyon floor. Put a piece or two in and simul it unless you are 100% confident.
4. The walk off is not trivial from a pure knee-pounding perspective. Doing it in the dark would suck and likely double an already long hike. Plan to finish with at least two hours of daylight and you'll be fine. Apr 6, 2015
P0 - Skip the slab pitch and scramble up the ramp-like feature to the right of it, bringing you to a nice flat belay spot in the bushes. Rope up here.
P1 - Link the 5.7 slab and corner into the 5.8 chimney pitch and belay at bolts at the base of the main chimney (about 20' of simul-climbing may be necessary).
P2 - Climb the main 5.9 chimney to the bolted anchor about midway through on a pretty comfortable ledge.
P3 - Finish climbing the 5.9 chimney and belay on top of the Black Tower.
P4 - Link the next two pitches (5.7 and 5.9) and belay at bolts on a small ledge above the Elephant's Trunk (a perfect 70m pitch with good rope management).
P5 - Link the next two pitches (5.9 and 5.7)and belay at bolts on a small ledge (about 30' of simul-climbing may be necessary).
P6 - Climb the 5.9 "roof" pitch and build a belay on top of a huge, flat ledge.
P7 - Climb the 5.7 crack to its end, passing the bolts with missing hangers and build a belay somewhere on the ramp (about 60m is a good place to stop).
P8 - Simul-climb the ramp feature with your partner, keeping a few pieces between you along the way, and build your final anchor at the large pine tree that can be seen from the ground and marks the end of the route. (This is about 700' of easy 4th and 5th class. Be mindful of the rope as there are a few places with loose rock and bushes for it to get snagged.)
Enjoy! Apr 14, 2015
Las Vegas, NV
All in all, great climb! All of the face climbing out of the chimneys felt like climbing 5.8 jugs in the gym with awesome exposure. It took us about 1hr on the approach, 10 hours on the climb, and 4 hours on the descent (no shoes). Also, I should add that we ran out of water on the summit, which wasn't very fun. We each brought a nalgene and a gatorade, but next time I would opt for a little more or just be more conservative throughout the day. Definitely wear pants, even during this time of year it wasn't too hot. We weren't in the sun for too long. A jacket wasn't necessary, but I would bring one if I was planning on having a longer day or if it was pretty windy at the summit. Be patient on the descent and follow the cairns! Apr 24, 2015
The second chimney section was wider and easier I thought, and from there it was really just fun, exposure, and tired toes.
We were on the route by 6:30am and back at the parking lot around 4:30pm.
Great climb, bluebird weather.... Apr 25, 2015
New Paltz, NY
Boulder, CO
Moab
The second to last anchor which used to have three bolts on the sheltered ledge is missing a bolt (completely pulled out) and a hanger, so the anchor consists of a single bolt. I used a small stopper to hang on the hanger-less bolt to equalize with the single bolt.
The hangers on the final anchor before the 4th class section are also missing, though an anchor could be easily built from cams or slinging chicken heads. Feb 16, 2016
Albuquerque
It took us 12 hours to climb, which was slow but we were proud because we were/are novices. And then the most epic descent of all time occurred, which including walking the wrong ridge (which had sucker cairns on it THE WHOLE TIME) for a few hours, then taking a wrong turn after the steep downhill trail after we had found the descent route. Ended up doing 3 rappels (one of them about 30m, glad for the 70m rope there) at 1:30 am into the main BV Canyon wash. Finally made it to the car 21 hours after we had set out.
The climbing was FREAKING AWESOME however and I would recommend it to anyone remotely able to climb 5.9 trad. My partner cruised the chimney pitches after I lead the first one. My first chimney lead ever therefore was an awkward squeeze and I was mentally exhausted after that. Bring big gear and you'll feel comfy.
The pitches after the Elephant's Trunk are money - a few bolts and small gear will make you comfortable on some dope 5.9ish face/crack climbing. The 5.0 at the top and the 4th class final ramp were super exciting, but I am used to that climbing and my partner isn't, so he was a little sketched. I would definitely recommend simuling if you're not comfortable on ultra-high consequence but easy terrain. Mar 21, 2016
Silver Spring, MD
Jay, NY (and Montreal)
Comical disaster struck in the top chimney pitch when my gear loop broke and my approach shoes went sailing downwards (glad we were the only party on the route). They likely landed on the treed ledge above the first pitch. We went up rather than down to find 'em (the descent is great fun in rock shoes - ouch). If you find a pair of Scarpa sz 9.5 approach shoes down there (possibly still clipped to a chalk bag) please message me!! thanks. May 7, 2016
Auburn, Ca
I thought the first and second pitch, which I linked together, were actually kind of spicy with the bolt placements, and a great way to get your head together for the day.
Once we started up the chimneys we felt right at home. Being primarily Yosemite climbers, we were already used to the technique and with the exception of one crux move on the second chimney pitch it went uneventfully. I would recommend bringing a #4 to feel cozy.
After the chimney pitches it really turns into pure fun. All the climbing felt the same grade to me at around 5.7-5.8 and there certainly are no show stopper moves anywhere. We finished the last pitch by about 2pm and were able to simul the rest of the 4th class stuff pretty quickly. It is not very exposed and nothing to worry about.
My one piece of advice is to bring enough water for this climb. We finished our water by the time we topped out and had a pretty miserable decent. Jun 10, 2016
Red River Gorge, KY
The Following is an important correction to the "Route Exit" description.
When you reach a ledge with a 10-12 foot sandy (sometimes wet) wall/ramp as per the description, you DO go up this wall to reach another ledge, from there head up another 20 foot climb to reach a big long ledge with some smallish trees/vegetation growing on it.
From the end of this ledge you will very easily (in the daylight) be able to see the unmistakable lone pine tree. Head up the obvious easy terrain to reach the pine where you can unrope for the ridge traverse.
Dont attempt to traverse right on the exposed vertical, plated face with a horizontal crack that is around the corner from the 10-12 foot sandy wall, it appeard to go 50-60 feet before turning another corner and going nowhere.
Follow the sometimes distantly placed cairns after unroping at the pine tree.
The complicated descent is not over when you reach the two cairns marking the spot to go down from Whiskey Peak. We did not seem to see many cairns after this and may have taken a longer than necessary route down that included quite a bit of scrambling and a bit of bushwhacking down paths that seemed to have been trodden a bit, eventually reaching a wash with scree that leads out towards the parking lot. Feb 25, 2017
Las Vegas, NV
Red River Gorge, KY
The important part of my comment (and definitely not mentioned already) is to DISREGARD the part in the mountain project description that claims you should not go up the 12' sandy ramp starting from the ledge after the dihedral. I quoted the part I'm talking about below.
"If you try to keep going straight up, you'll encounter a 12 foot sandy/sometimes-wet "wall". Don't climb that wall." Mar 5, 2017
Oroville, WA
Your beta reads:
"As of February 2017 you will reach the end of the last 5.7 pitch at an anchor that is missing the hangers on both bolts. If you continue past here (on the ramps up and left for about 60 feet, or on the plated face above, you will reach a set of new looking 5 piece anchors which I haven't seen mentioned in any book or MP comment. Continue from these anchors up the path of least resistance for 4 or 500 feet, on what at times seems more like 5.5 than the 5.2 mentioned in the description, with highly consequential exposure. I would recommend simul-climbing placing gear as needed or pitching it out if you don't feel solid."
You talk about going up and left - All the ramp beta someone really needs is go RIGHT up the 4th class ramps with some short low 5th class sections Mar 6, 2017
Red River Gorge, KY
I must correct you on a party calling the AAI office AFTER my comment was posted, I know because we were the party who called you. Thanks Jason btw! We were confused in part due to the mp beta about the 12 foot ramp, this beta also confused a party of locals who went up the day after us, so I'm sure we are not the first to be confused by this. Mar 12, 2017
Boulder, CO
Pitch 1 to the first ledge. (short, probably link with the next)
Pitch 2 to the base of the main chimney. (ledge just inside chimney)
Pitch 3 link chimney pitches. Stay out and clip bolts for smoothness.
Pitch 4 link pitches to good ledge 30' or so above the elephant trunk.
Pitch 5 link pitches to the belay below the 5.8 roof. (last chance to rap with tag)
Pitch 6 climb to ramp. Un-rope and scramble to the walk-off. Mar 20, 2017
Logan, UT
1 set of nuts
.1,.2,.3,.4 and yellow, blue and orange metolius for the finger cams
doubles of .5-2 camalots
a single 3 and 4
10 alpine draws
I felt this was more than adequate to protect the climb. Note the following description assumes "the gear loop" topo. There's laminated gear loop topos available at desert rock sports in town. After exiting the chimneys and topping the black tower my partner took over the lead for a pitch and passed the pitch 6 anchors and stopped instead at the top of the elephants trunk labeled as optional anchors. This allowed us to link 7 & 8 which made for an amazing 190' pitch of varnish up a thin crack. We then climbed 3 more pitches to the top of pitch 11 before transitioning to simuling the ramps. All in all a spectacular climb and really the chimneys are nothing to be afraid of.
We took 4 liters of water with us all in dasani water bottles so we could crush them as we drank them. 1 liter for me and my partner to share on the approach and guzzle at the base. 2 liters (1 per person on the climb) and a 4th liter to share on the decent. We took a small 16L bag which held our approach shoes and 3 liters of water (plus a crushed bottle) and a light windbreaker. My follower wore the pack most of the climb and said he could barely feel it. He trailed the bag from his belay loop off a sling through the 3 chimney pitches and while it was probably annoying I didn't hear very much cussing due to the bag.
We didn't feel very tired after summiting however the decent was long and grueling. We actually had the opposite problem of most people. Instead of heading down the gully to the left too early we actually followed the ridge too far. It became evident when we stopped seeing cairns which was a pretty good indicator to turn around. This cost us about 20 minutes. After we turned around we found the spot with about 5 large cairns indicating the decent gully. Pro tip follow the cairns and if you stop seeing them turn around. In the end it was about a 1 hr approach, 8 hours on route, and 3 hrs down. We were pretty average as far as time goes. May 25, 2017
Bay Area, but not in SF
"Oh and FYI Honnold texted me yesterday that he took my 2000 foot Epinephrine record and gave it a new time of 45 minutes. I knew my 50 minute time would never be broken because alex thought it was too "blue collar". Apparently it was white collar enough." Oct 24, 2017
Fayetteville, AR
1) the pitch from the top of black velvet tower (after the chimneys) to the base of the elephant trunk. make sure to stay right and dont go left. there is a bunch of big loose blocks left that are precarious if you happen to get off route here
2) also if doing the descent at night (which you shouldnt be BUT happened to us) there is reflectors on the trees which reflect when shined with headlamp once you drop down off the ridgeline that show you the descent path Nov 3, 2017
Salt Lake City, UT
Los Angeles, CA
Santa Barbara
Missed the move out left on P4 in the dark (note to self, don't night climb a route the first go around), so we ended up struggling like crazy up the chimney. Otherwise, uneventful but very tiring climb.
Only notes are:
I found P4 to be way harder than P3. At 6'6", I struggled to get good traction because it felt like my knees were too close to my chest. But then again, I'm pretty much terrible at chimneys.
The face climbing at the start of P5 is much less featured and, in the dark, felt waaaay harder than anything above it.
Climbed from the top of the tower to the base of the Elephant's Trunk and then linked P7 + P8. Both are solid 5.8, but not 5.8+.
Descent took 2 hours, I think because we were extra delirious from lack of sleep and it was kind of hot. Apr 2, 2018
Austin, TX
If you climb 5.9 at a more sandbagged area, the only thing this will test is endurance and rope and time management. We climbed it in mid January, and had no problems with snow or ice, and made it almost entirely down the descent before darkness fell. Bolted belays really speed things up.
P.S. The approach takes you past the recently sent Sleepwalker (V16), the hardest boulder in the United States. Take your time to oogle at it and rub your dirty little paws all over it. I did, and I didn't even know its significance at the time--its that striking. Jan 23, 2019
Ford Econoline
Approach takes an hour and the descent should take just about 2 hours. (3hrs total)
The biggest time sink is getting stuck behind other parties so picking your day is important. Also, sucking it up and getting a 5am start could be worth it. We were back at the car at noon, but at least we were first to the wall.
We linked every pitch with a 70 and spent 4hrs on the route (7hrs car to car). If it's your first time, maybe pitch out the chimneys and link the rest. Or don't link any of them, doesn't really matter, the key is getting to the wall first or getting lucky with no other parties on the wall.
Here is some more info for Red Rocks in general: niceclimbs.com/areas/nevada… Jan 24, 2019
San Diego, CA
SLC, UT
Good luck out there! Mar 25, 2019
Salt Lake City, UT
El Potrero, Nuevo Leon, MX
Phila, PA
Las Vegas, NV
Las Vegas, NV
Eastern Sierra
Saying "bring more water" sounds obvious but your second is going to have a rough time in the chimneys towing 15+ pounds of water and gear slung from their harness, further necessitating more water consumption. To avoid this negative feedback loop, I'd do this next time for a light-pack, warm-weather ascent: drink as much water/electrolytes as your body will let you at the parking lot then start the approach. Bring 3L of water all of which mixed with your preferred electrolyte solution, carrying some portion thereof on your harness to help out your second. The chimneys will obviously demand more water but don't drink more than 1.5L before you get to the top of them. Use another 1L for all the face climbing until you reach the pine tree then sip the final .5L before and on the descent. You could also cache supplies at the summit before your climb but that doesn't seem necessary to me if you hydrate effectively beforehand.
I'd say this is still a fine time of year to climb Epinephrine: only one other party above us, longer days and if you're not a cold person than the warm weather is welcomed (I've climbed this in March before and while I only needed 1L of water, I froze my ass off at every belay). Sep 21, 2020
Humble, TX
Denver, CO
pay attention to the belay / pitch beta. We didn't and I feel like we could have strung together the top pitches more effectively. Also had a mini epic on the trail down, because we missed the main trail and ended up scrambling / bushwhacking some random canyon south of bv peak (eventually finding the bv trail after hitting the open desert) Jan 12, 2021
Carbondale, CO
Portland, OR
Portland, OR
We set out with three parties of two, all six of us being experienced climbers, and most of us experienced with chimneys and OW. We left the car at 6am, hoping to be first on the wall at first light. When we got to the wall, we found that two parties had beat us to it. So the lineup looked like this:
It took five hours for Party E to be able to begin Pitch 4. By this time, Party D had happily absorbed the soloer. All strong and led by a guide, this team ended up being just as fast as the parties of two on the route. By this time Party A had also allowed Party C to pass them.
So at 11am, the line turned into this:
Party C ended up topping out about 3 hours before Party D. My Party hit the summit right at sunset and we had to make the descent in the dark. This was slow-going, but made easier with the offline GPS app they have available, and with a mantra of "if you haven't seen a cairn in 30 ft, turn back to the last cairn".
My party spent 12 hours on the route, and car-to-car was 15.5 hours.
As for the actual climbing, it was an absolute joy of a time. I would love to do this climb again on any Vegas trip. The chimneys were a full-body endurance test that I enjoyed. There was one section in P4 that gave us some pause, it was like a squeeze/OW bit that was hard without the right technique.
The face climbing above the chimneys was pure, clean, family fun for 6 pitches straight. Then pitches 12-15 were some mega-exposed 3rd to low-5th class scrambling that Party D unroped for, but my party simul'd.
I'll also say that all of our parties were pretty comfortable with the run-outs in the entire climb, through the chimneys, through the bolted sections, and through the ~5.9 protectable terrain. I think this climb would be a lot more heinous and take a lot longer without that comfort level.
There's a line in the SuperTopo guide that says to choose another climb if there are people ahead of you unless they are clearly moving fast, I would agree with this based on our experience, if you'd like to top out before sunset.
We got back to our pad at around 11pm and I fell asleep while eating a Rivas burrito that night.
4/4 stars Apr 2, 2021
Santa Clara, CA
It took us about 1hr40m to descend in daylight. Even with the offline map it’d be slower in a dark given the kitty litter trail and plenty of bushes to navigate. Apr 5, 2021
Las Vegas, NV
Denver, CO
Las Vegas, NV
Salt Lake City, UT
To whoever cut/removed the cord to rappel pitch 1: That was definitely NOT cool. Nov 17, 2021
Stoney Point, CA
As an aside, please do the final chimney pitch right side in, I'm not sure what possessed me to attempt it the other way. Skip the pack if you can, dragging it along isn't the *worst* but there definitely would have been less grunting/swearing involved without it. A climb I won't soon forget, thanks red rocks! Nov 25, 2021
Sierra eastside
Try not to make the peaceful riparian area directly to the right of Epinephrine into a garbage dump or toilet. We removed a number of discarded wrappers, gross-ass toilet paper and feces, etc. that were left *directly* under the shared start to Velvet Revolver and other classic routes. It would be wise to pack a wag bag *before* heading into Black Velvet Canyon. You cannot count on the trailhead wag bag dispenser being stocked. Thanks. Nov 29, 2021
Colorado Springs
Las Vegas, NV
Las Vegas
San Diego
Boulder, CO
Seattle, WA
YOU ARE PUTING BOTH YOURSELF AND EVERYONE ELSE ON THE WALL IN DANGER BY GETTING IN OVER YOUR HEAD.
A) it is a big climb. You need to have practiced your changeovers. Know how to climb efficiently. If Frogland/whatever is taking you more than a few hours to climb, Epinephrine is going to be too much for you.
B) EVERYONE in your party needs to be able to climb chimneys. It is much different technique than the rest of climbing. Just because you can climb sport hard doesn't mean you know how to climb chimneys.
C) Do us all a favor, unless you know you're going to be able to zip up the chimneys, don't climb in a party of 3. It just isn't worth it. Dec 3, 2022
Or was Joe driven to that rant by witnessing Luke’s epic firsthand?
I don’t know but either way comedic gold on the scale of an exploding shit-filled Nalgene. Thank you. Dec 3, 2022
Truckee, CA
You will very likely get stuck behind other parties and the chimneys while a fair 5.9 for the area turns to 5.9+ or more when you're scared and stay deep in the squeeze chimney part of them. That said if your trad experience is in places like Yosemite once exiting the chimneys you will find the rest of the route around 5.8 and fairly thoughtless as the route finding follows the obvious crack and small gear-protectable areas have bolts, took me and my sport climbing partner ~2 hours from the top of the chimneys to the lone pine. The post chimney pitches are all full 50m rope lengths (no need to simul w/ a 50; some intermediate anchors, if your partner hasn't called out the halfway mark keep going) and dead vertical, a real treat to a typical dome climber.
Echoing other comments the rack was a bigger set of nuts, .2-4 with doubles in 1 and 2 and 8 alpines. Ended up using alpines for anchors... would have preferred a few more. Also would have rather taken totems than Z4s for the small gear and normal nuts instead of offsets... I was a sandstone gumby.
Got on the wall at 10:30ish am and topped out the first 4th class section as the sun went down ~4:30... spent 30 or so trying to understand the mountain project description for the top we went up the first dihedral and then up seemingly 2 more small walls to reach the 3rd class ramp. There was an exit right that seemed scary to go around a corner so we kept going up and eventually found the fabled ramp. Saw chalk on both routes (the 'right' exit to the right and the 'wrong' climb up the sandy/wet wall) as well as rope burns from belaying, just pick what makes you comfortable in the dark. Would recommend soloing if you and your partner are comfortable, a few shale bricks were sent down from above likely from belaying.
The descent was relatively trivial if you read the topo ahead of time knowing you need to stay high on the ridge for half of it--unlimited cairns, reflective tape on trees (genius idea), and no real sketchy 4th/5th class will be encountered. The descent took ~1:45 with one headlamp, route finding is very straightforward compared to other nighttime descents I have done.
Physical crux for me was chimney pitch 1, stayed too deep in the squeeze chimney to the right side of the hump. I was right shoulder in for all of the chimneys. Psychological crux was the final chimney, did not realise that the 2nd bolt was on the opposite face of the first bolt and had a .5 and maybe .75 in marginal flakes I found making my way up again in the deeper part of the chimney. The 2nd bolt I eventually found 10 ft out of the chimney then where I was so I had to traverse out. At the top of the chimney I escaped onto the left ledge, bolts were on the right. Last pro was the 2nd bolt and I would have enjoyed a #0 to protect stepping over the chimney to reach the bolts at the top of the final chimney. This heady move can be avoided by not escaping onto the ledge as soon as you see it.
Overall great route, but like most have mentioned here make sure you are ready for it, it is far more of an undertaking than I would have first suspected. Dec 13, 2022
UT
- Note-Rapping down from beyond the black tower is not ideal, even if you intend to leave your rack behind. Stuck ropes etc. Plan accordingly, wait till snow melt and dry and thank the community for all the great info and resources.
Mar 7, 2023AMGA Certified Rock Guide,…
Only dangle your pack for the first short chimney you encounter.
On the first true chimney pitch, left side in. Placing gear will use up a lot of your energy so weigh that against just moving efficiently. Find a rhythm and keep it. There's an option to climb the right side of a flake that can make for a good place to pass other parties; intially it has easier climbing than the left chimney, but it ends with a OW and step out finish I'll call 10d and protected by a bolt below the belay.
Second chimney is the easiest. Just keep moving. If you're good, you can lead this in 5 minutes. There's a handcrack up top.
3rd, head to the right and up a handcrack to the belay. It's comfy and big. You end up skipping a bit of chimney climbing this way.
4th, step back into the chimney and clip a bolt on the right. Find a spot to spin, either on some good feet ~15' below bolt 2 (on the left wall, btw) or on a good edge at bolt 2. You want your right hip in after bolt two. Don't bother placing small gear, it's all trash.
Hauling: I highly recommend hauling your pack. Practice this before attempting the route. It sucks to dangle 10lbs swinging from your belay loop, even following. For one pack it's fairly easy to clip into the anchor with a tether, lower down the end of the rope, then hand-over-hand the pack up. For two packs, bring a progress capture. If you're hauling three packs, you should already know how to do this and not be learning from a MP comment (hint, pulling the bags with your arms is NOT the solution). Apr 22, 2023
Temecula, CA
Indianapolis, IN
We cleared the safety cache having lost water at the top of the Black Tower. So an additional 14 hours of climbing and descent with no water except what we could get from squeezing cacti. If you're going up and have spare water please leave it in the cache for gumbies like us
Red Rocks SuperTopo doesn't indicate bolted anchors on the ramp but there are at least two large ledges with bolted anchors up there. I'll go on the record and say that it's honestly very reasonable to haul a medium sized backpack of water/food through the chimneys. Just have your follower push the bag thru the craggy spots if it happens to get jammed. Jul 1, 2023
Seattle, WA
Other condition info: saw no poo on route, no stuck cams, nobody else on route. Road is fine with high clearance or passable w/ low clearance if you are bold and don’t mind a little damage.
Descent: Follow the cairns and the yellow line on the mountain project app and you’ll be good. There are even a few reflectors to help at night. No raps necessary. Route is still mega classic. Dec 11, 2023
Sudbury MA / Lyndon VT
I made a video about this route. Shows the full experience very well, and our story on it. Bottom line, it’s an ass kicking day, and you won’t know how it’s gonna go until you get out there and do it. Dec 29, 2023
San Luis Obispo, CA
Also... Just leave the backpacks at the car.
Bring your chalk bag, a small snack, & your big-boy/girl pants, and climb this in a few hours like a reasonable person. Asiago cheese & crackers (although a wall delicacy not to be missed on select routes) are just not the call here. Leave the cheese at home, folks. Jan 16, 2024
Vancouver
The top pitches are super fun, returning back to Red Rocks relaxing vacation climbing. Not much to say here.
The top has 3 full rope lengths of real 5th class climbing with exposure. Not listed are 3 bolted stations along this section before the 3rd class ledge traverse. Once at the 3rd ledge, it’s very exposed and about 150yards horizontal before even close to this big tree you’re now dying to stand beside.
The descent is long. Scramble up out from the tree and the terrain opens up. Aim for the saddle and scramble up the right hand peak. Lots of cairns to follow from here. A lot of parkour moves along the ridge lead to a double cairn near the end. This marked the descent skiers left downward. Don’t underestimate this descent, multiple bivi sites are testament to the time.
Note: I led the chimneys with my small backpack hanging off my belay loop between my legs. This worked fine. No real faffing around with this setup. This Canadian would have never survived without 2L of water and some lunch. Plus, I hate climbing with the junk show on my harness. Apr 13, 2024
Las Vegas, NV
Adirondacks
Las Vegas, NV
Hell