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> 6. Middle Cathedral Rock
Fall Guy
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Type: | Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | Bob Steed and Clint Cummins (Aug, '08) |
Page Views: | 1,323 total · 13/month |
Shared By: | Bryan G on May 19, 2016 |
Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
This is a newer route, and the best protected on the Apron. Begin a little ways to the right of the big dihedral which Quicksilver ascends.
Pitch 1 (10a): Follow the obvious line of closely spaced bolts and then move left to a bolted anchor at the bottom of a big right-facing flake. Cruxes at the first and last bolts. 150 ft.
Pitch 2 (5.8): Climb the flake, mostly liebacking. Belay at bolted anchor at a stance just before the flake turns to an undercling roof. 100 ft.
Pitch 3 (5.10b): Undercling out the flake, staying low. Then climb up until you reach a bolt at the top of the flake. Make a crux traverse to the left, then easy terrain up past one more bolt to join Walk of Life at the top of its second pitch. Make sure to extend your gear on this pitch. 100 ft.
The second and third pitches can be linked with a 60m rope. There will be bad rope drag at the crux, but you'll probably have rope drag regardless.
Rappel the route with two ropes. You could maybe get down with one 70m if you wanted to downclimb some of the lower easy terrain on Quicksilver.
Pitch 1 (10a): Follow the obvious line of closely spaced bolts and then move left to a bolted anchor at the bottom of a big right-facing flake. Cruxes at the first and last bolts. 150 ft.
Pitch 2 (5.8): Climb the flake, mostly liebacking. Belay at bolted anchor at a stance just before the flake turns to an undercling roof. 100 ft.
Pitch 3 (5.10b): Undercling out the flake, staying low. Then climb up until you reach a bolt at the top of the flake. Make a crux traverse to the left, then easy terrain up past one more bolt to join Walk of Life at the top of its second pitch. Make sure to extend your gear on this pitch. 100 ft.
The second and third pitches can be linked with a 60m rope. There will be bad rope drag at the crux, but you'll probably have rope drag regardless.
Rappel the route with two ropes. You could maybe get down with one 70m if you wanted to downclimb some of the lower easy terrain on Quicksilver.
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