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Routes in Supercrack Buttress
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22 going on 23 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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24 Unknown T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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24 Variation T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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3AM Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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? T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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A void T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Amaretto Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Anasazi T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Bad Rad Duality T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Binge and Purge T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Bongo Flake T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Chasing the Dragon T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Coyne Crack T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Creeksmythe, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Fat Free T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Fingers In A Lightsocket T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Fledge TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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For the Clients T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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For the Masses T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Gorilla T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Honest Aussie T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Incredible Hand Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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International Affair T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Key Flake, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Keyhole Flake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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King Sooper T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Left Affair T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Legend of Creepy Hollow T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Man Who Knew Too Little, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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No Name Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Nuclear Waste T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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On-Slot, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Painted Pony T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Pigs in a Slot T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pillar of Bullshit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pringles T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Savelli Crack T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13 |
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Super Babushka T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Super Chill T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Super Surprised T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Supercrack of the Desert (aka Luxury Liner) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Supershack V2- 5+ |
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Tiffs Thigh Gap T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Too Much Cake T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Triple Jeopardy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Twin Cracks T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unknown T,TR 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a |
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Unknown Deep Slot left of Keyhole Flake T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Unknown Left of The Wave T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Unknown on far left side of wall T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Unknown, left of Keyhole Flake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wave, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Wild Works of Fire T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Zow T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 130 ft (39 m) |
| FA: | Steve Quinlan 1993 |
| Page Views: | 3,231 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | krispyyo on Nov 28, 2008 · Updates |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities!
Details
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
2024 Raptor Avoidance Areas (LIFTED 9/10/2024)- The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. See map in photos section.
Each spring raptors return to the Indian Creek area for nesting. Eagles, falcons, hawks, and other migratory birds use shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls to build nests, often returning to the same site year after year to raise their young. The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) requests that visitors and recreationists avoid these areas during critical nesting periods which typically start in early March and last through late August. Avoiding recreational activity in the vicinity of the nest sites along and maintaining a safe viewing distance will help ensure survival of young birds.
Beginning March 1, the public is asked to avoid climbing in areas that are historically known to have raptor nesting activity or have a high potential for nesting. Areas that have potential nesting activity are referred to in many climbing guidebooks as: The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall and Critic’s Choice. While this list serves as a guide, it does not indicate every avoidance area or encompass all known names of the affected climbing areas. Please refer to the provided “Raptor Protection Map” to identify avoidance areas. The BLM is coordinating these raptor protection efforts with the Utah School and Institutional Trust Lands Administration, who is the administrator of the climbing areas known as Disappointment Cliffs and portions of the Second Meat Wall climbing area. The avoidance areas only cover a portion of Disappointment Cliffs, see the map for additional details.
In March, BLM biologists will begin the annual surveys of raptor activity to verify which historic nest sites are being used. Typically, by late April or early May, biologists can identify the nesting areas the raptors have selected. At that time the areas without active nests will be cleared for recreational use. The BLM requests that climbers, campers, and hikers completely avoid areas with active nests until the young birds have fledged, which is usually by late summer. Biologists will monitor nesting activity throughout the season and keep the recreation community informed of potential changes. Avoidance area notices and maps will be posted throughout the Indian Creek Corridor during the recreation season.
While falcons and eagles are not overly common sights in southeastern Utah, they are present throughout the area and keen-eyed observers are sometimes rewarded with their aerial acrobatics. Visitors can watch adult birds hunt or observe the antics of young raptors perfecting their flying techniques. These species in Utah continue to recover from low population levels, thanks in part to cooperation from the public, climbing communities and governmental partners. The BLM would like to remind the public there are private land holdings throughout the Indian Creek Corridor. Please respect private landowners’ boundaries and signage.
For questions about this avoidance areas, raptors, and migratory bird habitat in the Monticello area, please contact Rachel Wootton with the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500. Persons who use a telecommunications device for the deaf (TTY) may call 711 to leave a message or question. The TTY Relay System is available 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Replies are provided during normal business hours.
blm.gov/announcement/blm-an…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
2024 Raptor Avoidance Areas (LIFTED 9/10/2024)- The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. See map in photos section.
Each spring raptors return to the Indian Creek area for nesting. Eagles, falcons, hawks, and other migratory birds use shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls to build nests, often returning to the same site year after year to raise their young. The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) requests that visitors and recreationists avoid these areas during critical nesting periods which typically start in early March and last through late August. Avoiding recreational activity in the vicinity of the nest sites along and maintaining a safe viewing distance will help ensure survival of young birds.
Beginning March 1, the public is asked to avoid climbing in areas that are historically known to have raptor nesting activity or have a high potential for nesting. Areas that have potential nesting activity are referred to in many climbing guidebooks as: The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall and Critic’s Choice. While this list serves as a guide, it does not indicate every avoidance area or encompass all known names of the affected climbing areas. Please refer to the provided “Raptor Protection Map” to identify avoidance areas. The BLM is coordinating these raptor protection efforts with the Utah School and Institutional Trust Lands Administration, who is the administrator of the climbing areas known as Disappointment Cliffs and portions of the Second Meat Wall climbing area. The avoidance areas only cover a portion of Disappointment Cliffs, see the map for additional details.
In March, BLM biologists will begin the annual surveys of raptor activity to verify which historic nest sites are being used. Typically, by late April or early May, biologists can identify the nesting areas the raptors have selected. At that time the areas without active nests will be cleared for recreational use. The BLM requests that climbers, campers, and hikers completely avoid areas with active nests until the young birds have fledged, which is usually by late summer. Biologists will monitor nesting activity throughout the season and keep the recreation community informed of potential changes. Avoidance area notices and maps will be posted throughout the Indian Creek Corridor during the recreation season.
While falcons and eagles are not overly common sights in southeastern Utah, they are present throughout the area and keen-eyed observers are sometimes rewarded with their aerial acrobatics. Visitors can watch adult birds hunt or observe the antics of young raptors perfecting their flying techniques. These species in Utah continue to recover from low population levels, thanks in part to cooperation from the public, climbing communities and governmental partners. The BLM would like to remind the public there are private land holdings throughout the Indian Creek Corridor. Please respect private landowners’ boundaries and signage.
For questions about this avoidance areas, raptors, and migratory bird habitat in the Monticello area, please contact Rachel Wootton with the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500. Persons who use a telecommunications device for the deaf (TTY) may call 711 to leave a message or question. The TTY Relay System is available 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Replies are provided during normal business hours.
blm.gov/announcement/blm-an…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
Fun and burly journey if you want to work on some wide crack and chimney technique. Stout moves right off the ground with pulling a roof into 15' of steep wide hands. Then the real fun begins with getting into the 50' flaring chimney with a 4-5" crack in the back. Sweet stacking, armbarring, heeltoeing and kneebarring for a long ways through here leads past a bolt and into the technical crux of the route, a fist crack through a bulge. After this, about 20 or 30' of sustained wide hand and fist crack climbing finishes the route. While this route doesn't seem to be traveled often (I was eating sand most of the time), it is super fun with great pro and interesting moves, definitely an experience!
Protection
Three or four #3 camalots. Lots of #4 camalots (I probably placed about six or so, and was walking some of them). Two or three #5 camalots are nice to have also. I brought a #6 Camalot and placed it, but it is definitely not necessary. There is one needless bolt before the bulge.
There was an anchor a few feet above the bulge consisting of a fixed stopper and a bolt without a hanger. I didn't really like the looks of it, so I continued for another 15' or so of sweet fist crack climbing with pretty bad rope drag, placed a #2 camalot and tension traversed a few feet right to the anchors of Too Much Cake, which consists of a good bolt with a hanger and two bolts without hangers. As of November '08, the webbing definitely needs replacing. One 70 meter rope gets you down from this anchor.
There was an anchor a few feet above the bulge consisting of a fixed stopper and a bolt without a hanger. I didn't really like the looks of it, so I continued for another 15' or so of sweet fist crack climbing with pretty bad rope drag, placed a #2 camalot and tension traversed a few feet right to the anchors of Too Much Cake, which consists of a good bolt with a hanger and two bolts without hangers. As of November '08, the webbing definitely needs replacing. One 70 meter rope gets you down from this anchor.
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