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First Flatiron Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in First Flatiron

L › R R › L A › Z

	Atalanta T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
	Baker's Way T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
	Blow It Out Your A** (AKA not Kamakaze Overhang) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Butterfly T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
	Direct Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
	Dumais Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	East Face Gully T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	East Face North Side T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R
	Fandango T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Fandango Variation T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	First in Flight T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
	Hubris T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
	Kamikaze Overhangs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Massugu T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
	North Arete T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Red Slab Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Southwest Face T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
	Way of the Ancients T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
	Yellow Brick Road T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	Zig Zag T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

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Elevation:	6,713 ft	2,046 m
GPS:	39.9908, -105.2928 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	319,932 total · 1,092/month
Shared By:	Ben Mottinger on Dec 31, 2000
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:

See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….

Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:

flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…

Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.

Description

The First is a huge Flatiron with many good face routes starting from the bottom to the top of the East side. It's probably the 2nd largest Flatiron overall. The climbing is longer and more varied than the Third with huge flakes, dihedrals, and the rollercoaster ridge. Climbs range from about 4-10 pitches. Virtually every climb is a quality line. There is adventure and there are crowds. A 60m rope is nice for these routes, especially for the rappel.

On a rare winter, you can even find an ice climb here....

Getting There

From Chautauqua Park (W on Baseline, near 9th, off US 36), take the diagonalling "Chautauqua Trail" from the parking lot. At the trail intersection once in the trees, go briefly south (L), then follow signs (R) for the 1st Flatiron to the base. Depending on which route you're going to do, either take the wooden bridge to the base (routes starting near the nadir) or stay on the trail and keep hiking up the hill to the left to another trail that leads to access for climbs that start higher on the East face (e.g. Fandango). Approaches range from 20-40 minutes for the casual walker.

20 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at First Flatiron

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c 116 ● Southwest Face Trad
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a 60 ● Atalanta Trad
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a 168 ● Baker's Way Trad 6 pitches
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R 162 ● East Face North Side Trad 5 pitches
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c 274 ● North Arete Trad 5 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a 243 ● Fandango Trad 5 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R 1,346 ● Direct Route Trad 10 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b 57 ● Fandango Variation Trad 6 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R 27 ● Butterfly Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R 8 ● Way of the Ancients Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 80 ● Zig Zag Trad 5 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R 16 ● Yellow Brick Road Trad 6 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R 15 ● Red Slab Variation Trad 7 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R 10 ● Dumais Direct Trad 6 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R 4 ● First in Flight Trad