The Flatirons are synonymous with Boulder and the history of rock climbing in North America. It would be hard to find another location in the country where such an extensive variety, from scrambling to hard "Head Point" routes exist so close to a major metro area. They form the backdrop to Boulder and are the centerpiece of Boulder's Open Space and Mountain Parks system.

There are three main areas:

Flatirons North

This area includes classic rocks such as the First and Third Flatirons, the Amphitheatre in Gregory Canyon, all the way South to include Skunk Canyon. Climbs here range from short newer-age sport climbs to long trad routes, including some of the longer trad routes in the area, the whole face of the 3rd Flatiron, which is about 1300 feet and the Direct East Face of the 1st which is about 1400 feet. Hard conglomerate Fountain Formation sandstone is the medium for your rock craft.

Flatirons Central

There are many rocks to explore in this area. The "Central" zone spans Bear Canyon to Skunk Canyon. Slabmongers can have many field days exploring the numerous smaller Flatirons, and there's a good amount of trad and even sport among these rocks. Have fun in this scenic setting.

Flatirons South

This section of the Flatirons holds some of the best climbing in the Flatirons, but it seems to be less crowded. We will include crags from Eldorado Canyon to Bear Canyon in this section. Great rocks such as the Maiden, Matron, Devil's Thumb, East Ridge, Nebel Horn, Seal Rock, and The Goose offer slabs for beginner trad leaders and also more challenging trad lines. Excellent sport routes also can be found, some several pitches in length. The longest climb in the area is here. There is plenty to explore here.

Access: various of the Flatirons are closed for falcon nesting from Feb. 1 up to July 31 and for bat nesting Apr. 1 to Aug. 31. Historically, some of these have included The Matron, Towers of the Moon, Jam Crack Spire, Devil's Thumb, Nebel Horn, Jaws, The Fin, Sphinx, Medusa, Fern Canyon, The Goose, The Goose Eggs, Bear Creek Spire, Harmon Cave (bats), East Face of The Hand (bats), East Face of The Finger Flatiron (bats), East Face of Der Zerkle (bats), Dreadnaught, Achean Pronoucement, Skunk Canyon Ridge 2 & west, Sacred Cliffs, East & West Ironing Boards, The Third Flatiron, Queen Anne's Head, occasionally Gregory Amphitheatre, and possibly others.

For information about current wildlife closure areas (for cliff-nesting raptors and bats) and the formations within them that are also currently closed, please refer to:

• the City of Boulder's Wildlife Closures and Climbing Formations map
• the City of Boulder's web page describing seasonal cliff-nesting raptor closures and seasonal bat closures

Note, from the 1980s to the early 2000s, there was moratorium on new fixed hardware in the Flatirons. With great efforts, there is a new, application-based, limited new fixed hardware process in place. Please check with the Flatirons Climbing Council for more information about the fixed hardware permitting program.

According to the City of Boulder Open Space and Mountain Parks website, dogs are allowed on 90% of the OSMP trails. 

Please refer to the City of Boulder Open Space and Mountain Parks Dog Regulations web map for more info on these regulations.

The Voice and Sight Control Tag program regulates the ability of owners to have their dogs off-leash on certain trails, but participation in the program is a requirement in order to have any dogs of leash on the OSMP system.

See a bat on a route, give a shout. Climbers for Bat Conservation is working with climbers to understand bat ecology and why bats choose certain cracks and flakes. If you see bats, and want to tell them, here is their email (climbersforbats@colostate.edu) and their website ( climbersforbats.colostate.edu/).

Climbers for Bat Conservation is a collaboration between climbers, bat biologists, and land managers to understand where bats roost and where large populations may reside. They are interested in finding bats because a new disease, called white-nose syndrome ( whitenosesyndrome.org/), has killed millions of bats in North America. This collaboration has identified bat roosts throughout the U.S., and as far away as Norway and Bulgaria. CBC was developed by biologists who climb and they are advocates for climbing access and bat conservation. If you see bats while climbing, please let them know by emailing them at climbersforbats@colostate.edu, or visiting their website to learn more ( climbersforbats.colostate.edu/).

Rob Schorr

Zoologist, Colorado Natural Heritage Program ( sites.warnercnr.colostate.e…)

Director, Climbers for Bat Conservation

Robert.schorr@colostate.edu

TTIAD

Per Amy G: Gerry Roach's top 10 in a day is a link-up of the top 10 climbs in the Flatirons from his guidebook that spans the entire area. The order in which they're completed doesn't matter. The only rule is to climb all 10 in a day point-to-point.

Top ten in a day:

First Flatiron, East Face Direct.

Third Flatiron, East Face.

Third Flatiron, Friday’s Folly.

Green Mountain Pinnacle, Takin’ Care of Business.

Stairway to Heaven, South Ridge, Skunk Canyon.

Back Porch, East Face.

Pellea, East Face.

Fatiron, East Face.

Maiden, North Face.

Matron, North Face.