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Friday the 13th
5.10a/b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.6 from 494
votes
Routes in Nautilus
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30 is the New 20 T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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A Little on the Ugly Side T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Air Voyager With Report S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Automotive Supply House T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Baalbek T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Baldwin's Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Banana Hammock 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c V2 5+ |
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Bat Guano Crack (mistakenly aka B-G Crack) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Bat Heaven T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Belly Flop T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Blood Sport TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a V5 6C |
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Bombay T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Bombs Away aka B52 T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Bug Squad T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Campsite Host Boulder V2-3 5+ |
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Candlestick T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cannonball T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Captain Nemo T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Central Scrutinizer, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Cool Hand Luke T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Cornelius T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Crankenstein T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Cupcake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b V1 5 |
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Deception T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Deep Throat T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Deterioration / Unknown V1+ 5 |
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Drunken Redneck Rappellers S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Dual T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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E-D V7 7A+ |
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Easy Jam T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Ejector-Rejector TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Elevator T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Escalator T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Etude For The Left Hand TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Etude For The Right Hand S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Failure to Communicate T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Father 1 T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Final Cut, The T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Finally T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Flare Thee Well T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Flying Buttress T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Folded, Spindled, and Mutilated T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Fourth of July Roof T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Friday the 13th T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Friday the 13th, Part 2 T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Ghost Dance T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Grand Traverse, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Gravity's Rainbow T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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H & H Grunt T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Hairlip T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Hamburger Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hand Jam Traverse aka V1 Traverse V1 5 |
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Handjacker T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Harder Than Your Husband T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Heel to Toe V4- 6B |
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Hello Stupid T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Hemoglobin T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Hesitation Blues T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Horticulture T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Humper T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Hurley-Fowler T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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I'm Spartacus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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In The Dark T V2-3 5+ |
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In the Groove T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Infant Son T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Jim Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Jim Jam Junior T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Joke T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Kiai T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Knee Grinder T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Knothole T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Left Torpedo Tube T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Lower Progressive T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Lower Slot and Upper Slot T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Lower Slot Left T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Lucky You T V6 7A |
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Max Factor T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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MaxiLash T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Middle Parallel Space T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mother 1 T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Murphy's Law V4-5 6B+ |
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Nemo's Nemesis S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Nemo's Toad T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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New Mutant T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Nitrogen Narcosis T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Octagon T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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October Light T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Old Eyeful T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Outrider S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Par Four T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Petite Tarsalation T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Piton Perch T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Popcorn Farce T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Postman, The T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Practice Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Pretty S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Republic, The V10 7C+ |
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Right Parallel Space T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Right Torpedo Tube T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Right Winger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c V0 4 |
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Shotgun Willy V7 7A+ |
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Slab and Grab V4 6B |
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Slab Stealer T V4 6B |
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Slat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Slick and Superficial T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Slit T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Slut T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Soak'em In Cider V5+ 6C+ |
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Stand and Deliver S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Step Ladder T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Stinkzig T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Straight 4 Ward T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Stranded at Sea T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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Sun Up To Sundown V6 7A |
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Tarsalation T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Ted's Trot T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Tempest V10 7C+ |
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Thin Lizzy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Thunderbolt T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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TTL T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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TTR T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Unknown Crystal Slab V1 5 |
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Unknown Mantle V2 5+ |
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Upper Progressive T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Upper Slot Left T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Vault T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Vedajuicer, The T V11 8A |
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Vulture Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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W.C. Fields T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Wall-To-Wall T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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War Zone T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Where the Sidewalk Ends 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a V0-1 4+ |
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Whipping Boy T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Willem Dafoe's Blood Penis TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches |
| FA: | Ken Duncan, 1976? Todd Skinner & Paul Piana, ~1979-1981? |
| Page Views: | 33,024 total · 116/month |
| Shared By: | Steve Levin on Aug 30, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Temporary Notice on aerial herbicide treatment & Bad Bolt Submission Form
Details
PSA for those thinking about a trip. The gates are still closed and the sign says enter at your own risk. "Aerial application by helicopter of the herbicide Rejuvra will target over 5,700 acres on a landscape that has been the focus of multiple years’ worth of treatment."
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Description
From the parking lot, listen for crowd noise, then follow this to the start of the route. Located at the far SE end of the Nautilus, Friday the 13th is tremendously popular (at least the 5.10a start) and for good reason. This climb takes the obvious L-facing corner just right of the deep chimney recess, through a large roof, then, higher, a second even larger (and much more challenging) roof.
P1. The start is the crux, with several off-finger jams to contend with. After a short bit, the crack widens to hands, then fists for short little stretches. There is a 3-bolt chain anchor below the first roof from which many people slingshot toprope (don't hog the route though!). A 5.11- variation climbs left towards the chimney (good climbing) and a steep, hanging crack.
P2. If you want to climb the roof (5.11 something), continue through in one pitch. The initial moves are strenuous but secure, then rounding the lip requires a bit of go-for-it. Belay above in a recess at some fixed anchors.
P3. The final roof (hard 5.11) has a cool cut-your-feet-loose move, on technical thin jams.
This route gets early morning and mid afternoon shade. Truly a classic crack line!
P1. The start is the crux, with several off-finger jams to contend with. After a short bit, the crack widens to hands, then fists for short little stretches. There is a 3-bolt chain anchor below the first roof from which many people slingshot toprope (don't hog the route though!). A 5.11- variation climbs left towards the chimney (good climbing) and a steep, hanging crack.
P2. If you want to climb the roof (5.11 something), continue through in one pitch. The initial moves are strenuous but secure, then rounding the lip requires a bit of go-for-it. Belay above in a recess at some fixed anchors.
P3. The final roof (hard 5.11) has a cool cut-your-feet-loose move, on technical thin jams.
This route gets early morning and mid afternoon shade. Truly a classic crack line!
Protection
The first pitch takes larger TCUs at the start up to a 3-4" cam (the upper part is a bit wider than it looks). The roof takes hand-size pieces. The upper roof requires large wireds, TCUs in addition to the gear you've brought for the bottom. One rope off from chains at top of the 5.10a part, and from above the first roof (good anchors). Descend from the top via the rap route climbers right, or search left for anchors down the chimney.
Photos
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