All Locations > California > Yosemite NP > Yosemite Valley > Valley S Side > P. Cathedral Area > 6. Middle Cathedral Rock

Gaia (1st 7 pitches)

Name: Gaia (1st 7 pitches)
Rating: 4.0

5.12c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British

Routes in 6. Middle Cathedral Rock

L › R R › L A › Z

	Bircheff-Williams T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Border Country T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
	Bottom Feeder T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Cat Dancing T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Central Pillar of Frenzy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Chicken Ten-D's S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Coffee Snob T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Corner Pocket T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Desperate for Doughnuts T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Direct North Buttress (DNB) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Direct Start to Central Pillar T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
	East Buttress T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A0
	Ennui T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
	Exodus T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Fall Guy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Father Time T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c PG13
	Feel so Numb S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Flakes, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Freewheelin' T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Gaia T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A3+
	Gaia (1st 7 pitches) T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Grand Wazoo, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Ho Chi Minh Trail T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Hole in One T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Home Run T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
	Kor-Beck T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Lap Lobster T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Micro-Apron Far Left T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Micro-Apron Far Right T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
	Micro-Apron Left T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Modern Alchemy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Monogamish T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
	Mother Earth T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
	No Butts About It T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	North Buttress T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Northwest Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Paradise Lost T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Pedestal, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Pee Pee Pillar T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Pee Pee Pillar Left T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Punny People T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Quicksilver T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Rainbow bridge S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Ramer S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Reefer Cruise T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Scorpion Tale T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Slip on Slime S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Space Babble T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
	Spank Your Monkey T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Stand And Deliver T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Stoner's Highway T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
	Stupid Pet Tricks T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Sweet Thang T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Tapestry T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Tears of Joy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Together Forever T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Top Dog S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
	Up the Down Staircase T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Volkswagen Mechanic, The TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Walk of Life T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

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Type:	Trad, 800 ft (242 m), 7 pitches
FA:	Brandon Adams, Lance Colley 2023
Page Views:	1,205 total · 84/month
Shared By:	Brandon Adams on Nov 20, 2023 · Updates
Admins:	Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.

Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.

Description

A modern style route up a buttress on the left side of Middle Cathedral's North Apron. The climbing is inspiring and beautiful. The cruxes are well protected. All hardware is 3/8 and bomber. Permashade in spring and fall, morning shade in summer.

This route shares some terrain with The North Face (Pratt, Kamps, Roper, 1959) and Morning Lumber (Ben Wah and Way, 1990s). On the shoulders of those who came before, the adventure continues.

Pitch 1: 11c, 120'

Ramble up to the bolted right facing corner. Slab liebacking and granite wizardry provide a proper intro and warmup for the route. Finesse through the tricky slab moves at the top going right and around to the anchor. 9 bolts and optional gear for start. This pitch is a nice cragging option on its own, easily lower with a single 70m (knot the end). This pitch was originally done by Al Dude back in the day.

Pitch 2: 10a PG, 150'

Climb the corner past a rap anchor, then step right onto the face at a bolt. A couple cam placements protect fun climbing up the right face. At the next bolt, step across the corner and onto the face to the left. Continue past a couple more spaced bolts to an anchor on a nice ledge. 5 bolts and single rack.

Pitch 3: 10a PG, 50'

Highstep up and left, then continue to a bolted face higher. Comfy stance and anchor below the crux pitch. 4 bolts and single rack.

Pitch 4: 12c, 80' The White Tiger

Start in the corner then cut right onto the face. Follow edges around the arete and back on perfect rock. Solve crux moves on the thin and tricky face to an anchor on another glorious stance. My beta is to stay left at the last bolt to a high good edge, then back right. Seems that others have found alternate beta staying right. Follow your heart. 6 bolts and a piece or two for the start.

Pitch 5: 11b, 130'

Follow bolts into more high quality edging and slab to a lieback corner. Then moderate face leads to an anchor on yet another great stance. 6 bolts and single rack.

Pitch 6: 11d, 120' Red Fox Corner

Climb the splitter handcrack on the left and ignore the choss to the right. A couple bolts of steep sports action gets you into the beautiful corner. Hand jam to glory and an anchor on a stance to the right. 3 bolts and gear.

Pitch 7: 10d, 130'

Continue up the corner to a bolt that protects fun juggy moves to an optional anchor. Follow the crack right then up the leftward trending ramp. Pull around the roof (optional #4 cam) and up onto the large ledge with another bolted anchor. 2 bolts and gear.

Rappel the route with a single 80m rope or a tagline.