All Locations > California > Yosemite NP > Yosemite Valley > Valley S Side > P. Cathedral Area > 6. Middle Cathedral Rock

Gaia

Name: Gaia
Rating: 3.7

5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British A3+

Routes in 6. Middle Cathedral Rock

L › R R › L A › Z

	Bircheff-Williams T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Border Country T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
	Bottom Feeder T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Cat Dancing T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Central Pillar of Frenzy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Chicken Ten-D's S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Coffee Snob T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Corner Pocket T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Desperate for Doughnuts T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Direct North Buttress (DNB) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Direct Start to Central Pillar T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
	East Buttress T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A0
	Ennui T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
	Exodus T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Fall Guy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Father Time T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c PG13
	Feel so Numb S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Flakes, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Freewheelin' T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Gaia T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A3+
	Gaia (1st 7 pitches) T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Grand Wazoo, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Ho Chi Minh Trail T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Hole in One T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Home Run T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
	Kor-Beck T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Lap Lobster T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Micro-Apron Far Left T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Micro-Apron Far Right T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
	Micro-Apron Left T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Modern Alchemy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Monogamish T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
	Mother Earth T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
	No Butts About It T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	North Buttress T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Northwest Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Paradise Lost T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Pedestal, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Pee Pee Pillar T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Pee Pee Pillar Left T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Punny People T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Quicksilver T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Rainbow bridge S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Ramer S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Reefer Cruise T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Scorpion Tale T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Slip on Slime S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Space Babble T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
	Spank Your Monkey T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Stand And Deliver T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Stoner's Highway T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
	Stupid Pet Tricks T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Sweet Thang T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Tapestry T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Tears of Joy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Together Forever T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Top Dog S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
	Up the Down Staircase T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Volkswagen Mechanic, The TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Walk of Life T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

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Type:	Trad, Aid, 2200 ft (667 m), 18 pitches
FA:	Brandon Adams, Lance Colley, Miles Fullman, Sam Stuckey 2024
Page Views:	300 total · 37/month
Shared By:	Brandon Adams on May 28, 2024
Admins:	Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations. Details

Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.

Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.

Description

A great new wall route across the valley from where one might normally expect one. Id been curiously looking over at this face for years. We were pleased to find plenty of high quality rock and cool features all the way up. A civilized and modern route with an adventurous flair. We had tons of fun on this one.

To start this continuation, ascend the first 7 pitches of Gaia at 5.12c or 5.11 A0.

Traverse rightward across the ledge system to Panda Palace, a fantastic bivy ledge. Haul directly to the left side of Panda Palace with a 70 meter rope from belay 5.

Pitch 8: 5.7, 60'

Ramble up the right side of Panda Palace to the top of Panda Pillar. Good spot to bivy here as well.

Pitch 9: 12b or C2, 150'

Step up and left to a ramp that becomes a shallow left facing corner. Traverse right on golden edges to an anchor atop a flake.

Pitch 10: 13- or C2, 50' The Great Grey Owl

A sideways dyno or swing leads to a flake and nice edges. A short pitch for free climbing sake. Recommend linking with pitch 9 if aid climbing.

Pitch 11: A3+, 140'

Beaks, hooks, and bolts. Follow systems up then traverse right on a golden dike.

Pitch 12: A2, 200'

Hooks, bolts, and a short beaking feature lead to a pendulum right into a great corner. Anchor is at a great and comfortable stance.

Pitch 13: 5.8 A1, 130'

Work left then up a flake to a left facing corner. Anchor on Little Sandy, another nice stance.

Pitch 14: 5.10, 190'

Step left and work up the large left facing corner. Meat and taters Yosemite climbing. Short squeeze section, lots of hands.

Pitch 15: 10-, 100'

Fun face climbing left. Stay low and don't venture up into the vegetation.

Kit Kat Ledge: Amazing ledge with single person ledges scattered about. Party on.

Pitch 16: 5.8 PG A1, 130'

Free climb up and left off the anchor, then follow the rightward leaning crack and seam.

Pitch 17: C2, 130'

Continue up the left facing systems to a gear anchor on a nice stance.

Pitch 18: 5.8, 200'

Step up and right to a wide rompy corner, then cut left around the top bulge.

Easy walk from here to the incredible and rarely visited summit of Middle Cathedral!

Descent: Follow rappel route down with 2x 70m ropes. 9 casual raps directly back to base.

Notes

All hardware is 3/8" and stainless.

Panda Palace and Kit Kat Ledge are great natural ledge systems. No portaledge needed. Most anchors are on good stances. Belays 9, 10, and 11 are mostly hanging.

Continuation of the free climbing mega project is ongoing. Please refrain from adding bolts without FA permission. Thanks.