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Geriatrics (aka Ben Dover Beelzebub)
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.5 from 4
votes
Routes in North Face
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Amber T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Archaeopteryx T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Bourbon Hangover T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bourbon Street T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Canadian Club T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Closed on Monday T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cole Essence T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Delicate Sound of Thunder, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Desert Wave T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Frogland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Geriatrics (aka Ben Dover Beelzebub) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Ixtlan T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Kenny Laguna T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Matzoland S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Mazatlan T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Miss Conception T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Misunderstanding, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Only the Good Die Young T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Open-and-Shut T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Our Father T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Perplexity T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Quarantine Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Rain Dance T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Return To Forever T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Sand Felipe S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sandblast T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Tales from the Gripped T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Triassic Sands T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wholesome Fullback T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 320 ft (97 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Unknown. |
| Page Views: | 1,973 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | Josh Janes on Nov 7, 2017 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Sustained, excellent technical climbing.
P1 (110', 5.12a): Climb a right-leaning seam with small pro. Clip the first of many bolts as you work up a steep slab to a traverse right and a belay on the arete. Really good climbing.
P2 (100', 5.12a): Difficult to grade this pitch: The crux felt like a V4 boulder problem that is not too bad once you figure it out; the remainder of the pitch is 11- tops. Immediately off the belay execute the intricate crux sequence and then follow sometimes friable/hollow rock straight up the face over two small roofs to an anchor in a scoop. A heady lead. Note: Belaying at the stance below the anchor can interfere with the climber during the crux. I advise either extending the belay well below the anchor until the crux is complete, or skipping the belay altogether by linking the first two pitches.
P3 (110', 5.11d): Follow bolts up the wall to a cruxy concavity. Above move left to a rest and then back right under a roof. Pass the roof on the right (#4 Camalot placement) and continue up more easily to an anchor which is oddly positioned far to the left. A great pitch.
Rap the route with a single 70.
P1 (110', 5.12a): Climb a right-leaning seam with small pro. Clip the first of many bolts as you work up a steep slab to a traverse right and a belay on the arete. Really good climbing.
P2 (100', 5.12a): Difficult to grade this pitch: The crux felt like a V4 boulder problem that is not too bad once you figure it out; the remainder of the pitch is 11- tops. Immediately off the belay execute the intricate crux sequence and then follow sometimes friable/hollow rock straight up the face over two small roofs to an anchor in a scoop. A heady lead. Note: Belaying at the stance below the anchor can interfere with the climber during the crux. I advise either extending the belay well below the anchor until the crux is complete, or skipping the belay altogether by linking the first two pitches.
P3 (110', 5.11d): Follow bolts up the wall to a cruxy concavity. Above move left to a rest and then back right under a roof. Pass the roof on the right (#4 Camalot placement) and continue up more easily to an anchor which is oddly positioned far to the left. A great pitch.
Rap the route with a single 70.
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