Hairstyles and Attitudes
5.12b/c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British
Type: |
Trad, Sport
Fixed Hardware
(14) |
FA: | D. Michael, R. Briggs, 1988 |
Page Views: | 25,492 total · 92/month |
Shared By: | Anonymous Coward on Apr 2, 2002 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This sensational pitch, formerly called Space Invaders II, parallels the last pitch of Outer Space, about 25 feet to the left. The simplest and fastest approach is to get to the top of the third pitch of the Bastille Crack, belay, and then launch out right along the stratum (~20') to a short, left-facing dihedral. A line of ring bolts straight up the steep wall above marks the route. There are two hard sections separated by a good rest with a knee-lock. The lower section (.11b/c) just gets you warmed up for the upper crux. You'll execute a series of intricate moves in a short distance in order to set up for the balancy crux moves. Look for a hidden pocket/dish and then make a couple of big moves to finish it off onto a flat ledge. From here the route joins the original Space Invaders at .11a, past 3 more bolts (plus small gear) to the top. Concerning the rating, the Eldo guide calls the route .12c/d but nowhere is it any harder than .12b. The crux is kind of involved but the moves are not hard 5.12. Using Genesis (.12c) as a yardstick, H&A should be rated quite a bit easier. Perhaps the stiff rating is more a result of the amazing exposure rather than the actual moves. One of the things that make this route so fun is that it is very well protected. Combine that with its stunning setting and aesthetic positions, and you've got one of the best pitches in the canyon. If you climb 5.12 and crave exposure, then this is a must-do route!
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