Hyperspace
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Type: | Trad, 800 ft (242 m), 7 pitches, Grade III |
FA: | Kevin Busselmeier, Neil Cannon & Jim Yoder (1983) |
Page Views: | 21,003 total · 106/month |
Shared By: | blakeherrington on Oct 16, 2008 · Updates |
Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
A pair of golden eagles regularly nest on Bridge Creek Wall. When in effect, starting January 1, PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB or travel within 1/2 mile of Bridge Creek Wall. As a reference, the climb Condorphamine Addiction is just outside of this 1/2 mile buffer, and is OK to climb still. The closure extends through August 15, but there is active monitoring to determine if the seasonal closure can be lifted earlier.
In 2014, there was an active pair of peregrine falcons at Snow Creek Wall, but no official closure was put in effect due to the location of the falcons. The site will be continually monitored with changes or removal of closures updated as necessary.
Description
Hyperspace is a combination of various pitches on Snow Creek Wall, generally following the left side of the massive "Shield" formation. The climb is in between the two moderate classics, Orbit and Outer Space. Several minor variations exist.
The traditional start is RPM, a runout 5.10+ dirty slab. The more common start is Remorse.
P1 - 70m
P2 - 30m - 5.11a - The Psychopath pitch follows a nice finger crack off the left end of the belay ledge. This crack eats up small nuts and cams. After about 1/2 or 2/3 of the crack's length, a few small knobs appear on the left. Move onto these knobs, then from the top of these knobs, swing back right into the crack and up to the belay ledge. Alternatively, its possible to continue to face climb out left of the crack for the remainder of the pitch (5.7R).
P3 - 50m - 5.9 - Follow obvious cracks up a right-trending ramp and corner.
P4 - 45m - 5.10c - Step right from the belay (look down and note the massive fresh rock scar!) Follow thin flakes, slabs, and a corner upwards, with better than expected pro. This is the "Iconoclast corner" pitch of the namesake route. The right face of the corner is the Yellow Wall variation at 5.11a.
P5 - 40m - 5.10c - Follow the beautiful left-facing corner, past a small tree and bolt (which would be used to link into Outer Space).
P6 - 40m - 5.10d - There are two main corners/chimneys.Eventually be in the rightward one, although both are initially climbable. The left one leads to a sticker bush, move rightward before this point. From the top of the chimney system, face climb leftward (often fixed gear) and make a few desperate and physical moves upward into a flaring/cramped stance (The Pressure Chamber). Face holds on the right wall allow one to stem wildly rightward across the overhang, and reach and thin finger crack, and then a much better positive layback flake. Above this spot, follow the left-facing corner for 25' (5.10a) and then traverse left on a hidden foot ledge to comfortable belay.
P7 - 30m - 5.10a - Traverse left to the end of the foot ledge and follow the crack up to a roof.
Descend to the left (walkoff) as for Outer Space.
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