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Ice Cream Dreams, AKA Acid Test Crack
5.12 YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E6 6b British PG13
Avg: 3.9 from 21
votes
Routes in The Gold Wall
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[Redacted] T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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After the Gold Rush T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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An Uncertain Violence T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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AuH2O T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Cactus Thieves T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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East of Eden T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Facial Distortions T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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Fogdish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gold Finger T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Golden Boy T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Goldilox T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Grievous Angel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hatchet T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Helter Skelter T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Ice Cream Dreams, AKA Acid Test Crack T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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King Fissure T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Liquid Sky T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Pacing the Cage T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Rushin' Arete T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Serpent, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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Standard Fork's 5.8 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Supercrack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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T.L. Bush T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Tres Osos T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Waterslip Down T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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West of Ragstaff T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Worth The Weight T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R |
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X-it T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Heinz Zak, Paul Davidson- early 80's |
| Page Views: | 6,490 total · 29/month |
| Shared By: | JJ Schlick on Aug 12, 2006 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Description
Acid Test Crack or Ice Cream Dreams. Know it as either but love it all the same. This route was listed as Acid Test Crack in Tim Toula's historic, A Cheap Way To Fly, and many locals refer to it as such, with all due respect to Heinz for cranking out the FA. Definitely one the best sections of 5.12 fingers at the Forks!
Start out by bouldering fractured rock on thin holds to gain the crack proper. This section is a bit touch and go and many preplace a cam above this section on rappel to protect it, however, many do it from the ground as well. After the initial nerve test, button down the hatches for some sequencey fingers and tips moves. When the crack tightens down expect to find some good boulder problem cruxes. Take your rests wisely. Hard climbing from bottom to top with several good shakes.
This is by far one of my favorite pitches at the Forks. If you are looking for something which is steep, dramatic, stunning, and well positioned, then you need look no further. It does see onsights but not often.
12 Comments