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Routes in Redgarden - Tower One
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Alice in Bucketland T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Apple Strudel T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Art Of Slappiness, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Art's Spar T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Better Layton Never S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Blueberry Boodle T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Body Tremors T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Chockstone Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Consummation Nite T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Daedalus T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Dandelion Wine S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Deadpoint T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Dirty Deed T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Disclosure (new name) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Doub-Griffith T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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E.L. 200 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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E.L.100 T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Eleven T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Exhibit A T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2+ R |
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Exit Stage Left T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Flashdance T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Fresh Garbage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Grand Giraffe T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Grand Giraffe Slot Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Icarus T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Ignition S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Italian Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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King Cobra, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Magic Bus T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Magic Carpet Ride S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Magic Route T C2+ |
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Mellow Fellow T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Mellow Yellow T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Memory Lapse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Mickey Mouse Nailup T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Much Slater (left variation) T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X |
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Neptune's Bible T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Neurosis T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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One and a Half Hours of Power T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Over the Shoulder Stuff T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Parting Shot T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Phallus In Suck-It-Land T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Pigeon Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Psycho Pigeon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Psychosis T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Reaper T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Rocky Raccoon T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Roll Over Rover T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Rosy II - (In Memory Of Layton Kor) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Rover T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Ruper T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ruper to Grand Giraffe T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Short Arm Inspection. T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Smoke & Mirrors T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Song of the Dodo T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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South Face of Tower One T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Super Slab T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Superspar T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Three Old Farts Young at Heart T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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To RP Or Not To Be T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X |
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Untouchables, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Variation to Third Pitch of Yellow Spur T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Vertigo T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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West Arete (of T1), The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X |
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Without A Net T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Yellow Fellow T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13 |
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Yellow Spur, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Ytrid Deed, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Type: |
Sport, 60 ft (18 m)
Fixed Hardware
(6) |
| FA: | Various Additions |
| Page Views: | 5,575 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | Alex Shainman on Dec 31, 2000 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Rockfall Access Effect & Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Per Dustin Bergman, Eldorado Canyon State Park Officer: the upper third of the West Redgarden trail and Rewritten descent trail suffered significant damage during that storm that came through a few weeks ago. Please consider choosing alternates routes lower on the trail.
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
Along with so many fixed-pro face routes, this is yet another route to receive a facelift. Around '96 (I think), there was a bolt added midway up the pitch and the last bolt was turned into a 2-bolt lower off anchor. For safety or convenience sake, this has become more popular a lead (even though the new guide still lists an "s" rating and not an updated topo).
Start Ignition 20 or so feet left of the Direct Start of the Yellow Spur at a shallow, right-facing corner. A tricky mantel is followed by thin crux moves up the arete, then out right to better holds. Glide up past three bolts on dark red and tan stone (.11) to a downward pointed flake (optional nut). Move right to the leaning corner/roof past a bolt, then back left to the anchor.
Note that the route can continue straight up over the roof and joins Over the Shoulder Stuff (via One and a Half Hours of Power). Confused?
Start Ignition 20 or so feet left of the Direct Start of the Yellow Spur at a shallow, right-facing corner. A tricky mantel is followed by thin crux moves up the arete, then out right to better holds. Glide up past three bolts on dark red and tan stone (.11) to a downward pointed flake (optional nut). Move right to the leaning corner/roof past a bolt, then back left to the anchor.
Note that the route can continue straight up over the roof and joins Over the Shoulder Stuff (via One and a Half Hours of Power). Confused?
Photos
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