Tony B Around Boulder, CO   5.10b

[Hide Comment] All-in-all a very nice line which eats gear and is no threat to a compitent leader. Each one of the several cruxes is well protected, mostly by medium-sized stoppers. Each crux has a nice rest afterwards as well, to keep someone pressing the grade from getting too pumped. Jul 15, 2002

Randy Lassitude 33   5.10a/b

[Hide Comment] The actual FA: was Cox, Lennard and Steve Emerson (not Gary Ayres). Also Kandy Kolored Tangerine Flake Streamlined Baby is the actual name given by the FA team. Tobin Sorenson and Jim Wilson made a second "first ascent" in 1974 (adding a bolt-which has long ago disappeared) and called thier supposed new route Illusion Dweller. Sorenson and Wilson were credited with the FA for a while, and the name stuck even after the FA info was (incorrectly) corrected. It seems sort of wierd to proposed this, but perhaps I should correct the name in the new guide, giving an "aka Illusion Dweller." Not sure how that would go over with people after nearly 30 years, but as time goes on, it becomes likely this will never be corrected. Poll anyone????? Oct 29, 2003

susan peplow Joshua Tree   5.10b/c

[Hide Comment] Led the route for the first time today. Haven't been on it in at least 5 years. I remembered the leaning crack being difficult so I was all psyched up for that. Figured the upper section would be easy as it's a lieback. Turns out after I completely sewed up the lower section (16 pieces was the final count) I must have run out of steam and ended up hanging at the top. I suck and nerves got the better of me. I'll be back and post my progress. Less gear & no hangs. ~Susan Feb 24, 2007

armand rollice rancho cucamonga

[Hide Comment] What can I say very very classic route. The gear is good the whole way. The crux at the top was commiting, but your well protected with gear below. It was my goal to lead this for a long time. When i finally did. I had a blast! I sent it clean styled the moves all the way to the top. When it was all over and rapped to the ground. I saw this beautiful woman standing there watching me. Well four months later we returned to the base of Illusion Dweller. I asked her to marry me. Eight months later we got married under the oak tree at Live oak picnic area October 7th 2006 Feb 27, 2008

Aerili Los Alamos, NM   5.10b

[Hide Comment] I am fascinated at all the diverse comments and varying opinions about "where the crux is"! The first 15-20 feet were not that cruxy to me; I had solid hand and foot jams the whole way. I felt much more desperate on the upper third as you're getting close to the roof--there was a wide but shallow section here that left me doing gripping hand stacks while making more of those weird-balance angling moves. Ultimately, the roof did prove to be the crux for me I guess; I blew my onsight here. :( Fatigue was definitely a factor! Fantastic route however!! Nov 19, 2009

Tradiban   5.10a

[Hide Comment] Only pushes 10b because of the length, 10a overall with the main crux at the bottom. I didn't find the top too hard at all. A brown tri-cam fits perfectly in the slot under the roof. Jan 20, 2012

Bradley Paul-Gorsline Bristol, WI

[Hide Comment] Great route, sustained hard moves with good rests and great pro the whole way. I did a very inelegant beached whale move to surmount the roof, definitely not the way to go. Our 60m rope just barely made it to the ground (actually a small tree off right) with rope stretch. Apr 24, 2016

Matt Cox

[Hide Comment] I remember this route, it was great fun climbing it with my buds Feb 9, 2017

Derek Field Nevada   5.10b

[Hide Comment] Mega-classic! Cruxes at bottom and top; enduro-5.9 between. Hungry bugger ate just about every last piece of gear I had, and I believe I took doubles. All I had left at the roof was a .5 camalot and a purple TCU. Fortunately, this happens to be the ideal combo to protect those moves. Go figure! Feb 27, 2017

Daniel Evans Phoenix, AZ   5.10b

[Hide Comment] If the crux of Bird of Fire is 10a, then the top out on this is 10b. This felt equally as hard as Taxman, which I would argue is a sandbag at 10a. Slash grades are dumb. I worked harder on this then Sidewinder or Poodles are people too. Like Rubicon, which is 10c due to the sustained nature of 10a moves, this route deserves a 10b rating for the same reason. It is also certainly a classic for the park. Not overrated in my opinion. Jan 7, 2018

Matt Hagny   5.10b

[Hide Comment] Save a #0.4 for the top, lest you be faced with some runout at a challenging spot in the climb. Dec 28, 2018

Pugnacious Slab San Diego, CA

[Hide Comment] On the rappel, the ends of my 60m rope were hanging ~4-5 ft off the ground, with the rap going straight down from the bolts above the roof (climber's left of the roof). Not a prob to rap off the end since the ground is soft. I weigh ~140lb Oct 27, 2019

Cameron Kruse Los Angeles

[Hide Comment] We did this with a full 70m rope. I led it, placed a directional after the roof, traversed over to the anchors, and lowered down off of a short sling anchor. I got safely to the ground, but the rope just barely made it all the way. Nov 11, 2019

Nolan Slade Hamilton, ON

[Hide Comment] I found the comment about the start not being obvious a bit interesting. Sure, the moves are a bit balancey, but you’re following a crackline with a nice scoop for feet and decent thin hands/off-fingers. This is an absolutely wonderful climb! Enjoyed every single move, and every one of the handful of distinct cruxy sections. Excellent pro throughout. Good balance required! Didn’t place anything bigger than #1 Camalot. You could put in a 2 in a couple spots but it’s really not necessary - there’s always a plethora of options and usually an opportunity to toss in a good medium stopper. Perfect rack: .3 to #1 Camalot, with doubles from .5 to #1; plus, lots of nuts! 0.5 Camalot perfectly protects the roof crux. Nov 11, 2019

Jan Tarculas San Diego, Ca   5.10b

[Hide Comment] I used a #3 and #4 on the route. Could've gone without the 4, but it was nice to have it. Also save a #3 at the very top before the anchors. Anchors are a good 10 ft to the left of the top/crux of the route. Placing a 3 after the crux prevents your partner from swinging over if they fall at the crux. Dec 8, 2019

jake w mammoth lakes, california

[Hide Comment] Onsighted this after waking up at sunrise to beat the crowds. Boy, was it a battle! Felt way longer than 100ft. The crux for me was when I started dripping sweat while fiddling in pro somewhere midway up with a shitty flared jams. So stoked to get the onsight, now to try the beer! Feb 18, 2020

Andrew Kelleher Durango, CO   5.10b

[Hide Comment] That was awesome! I concur with the earlier beta of a 0.5 to protect the crux. That felt bomber. After that... just send it and don't look back! Not worth the pump to place anything else, you've already topped out anyway. Dec 1, 2020

Conner Van Loan Colorado   5.10b

[Hide Comment] Excellent climb. Takes great medium stoppers and protects well throughout. BEWARE of the large flake about 10-15 ft up the route. It begs to be used as an undercling jug (chalked up), but this is extremely hollow and flexes if pulled on. Belayer should wear a helmet and be aware. Jan 9, 2021

Ryan Wood Bend, OR

[Hide Comment] Stellar route. Definitely one of the best at its grade in the park and maybe anywhere. While there isn’t anything close to 10b on the route, not sure how anyone considers the crux to be at the top if you’ve ever climbed a crack. Crux is the first 20’ or so for sure. Small (but bomber) gear, slick/tenuous climbing, and close to the ground makes for the most engaging part… maybe it’s just lack of awareness from the budding leaders who make these comments and why we deal with so many accidents in Josh (same reason that flexing flake has so much chalk on it…) Feb 2, 2023

Matthew Clawson Blackheath, New South Wales

[Hide Comment] Super fun and varried route that demands a variety of jamming techniques. I concur with most of the gear beta here, but note that there are tons of nut placements on this thing, definitely something to consider if you're short on cams. The anchors (mussy hooks) are left of the crack after the bulge, no need to quest up the shallow gully. Finally, while the crag stays in the sun for most of the day, the canyon wall blocks the sun for the lower part of the route and the belay. Dec 15, 2024

Ian Dempsey Richmond, VA

[Hide Comment] Video of me whipping on this: youtube.com/shorts/uIiSOD1Y… Dec 23, 2024