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Routes in i. High E
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50-50 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Alpine Diversions T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ants' Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Beyond Good and Evil T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Bonnie's Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bonnie’s a Knockout T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cool Hand Dukes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Directissima T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Directississima (aka Doubleissima) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Enduro Man's Longest Hangout T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Ent Line T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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First Trapps Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Groovy T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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High Exposure T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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In The Groove T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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In the Silly T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Insuhlation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Knockout Drops T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Lakatakissima T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Lichen Forty Winks T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Missing, But Not Lost T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Nose Drops T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Obstacle Delusion T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Psychedelic (pitches 2 & 3 only) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ridicullissima T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Silly Chimney T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a |
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Sleepwalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Space Invaders T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Teeny Face T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Third Trapps Chimney T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Throne, The T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Ursula T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Wagissima T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Art Gran, Al DeMaria & Jim Mays 1963 |
| Page Views: | 5,914 total · 33/month |
| Shared By: | SethG on Jun 9, 2010 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, M Santisi, chris vultaggio |
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Description
Ascending an appealing natural line, In The Groove climbs an obvious corner with nice moves on the easy side of 5.6, and is a good warm-up for other nearby climbs.
P1: Start up the corner, using the crack and face holds on the left to advance. At the roof about 15-20 feet up step left and continue following the corner upwards. There is a crux bulge, but in my opinion all of the climbing is pretty straightforward 5.6 or easier, and is well-protected. As you get higher there are numerous left-facing flakes in the corner that provide good holds. At about the 80 foot level, there is a dirt ledge at which you can build an optional gear belay-- I did not; I finished the climb as a single pitch.
Original P2: A shorter, easier pitch. After a few more moves upward, the rock to the right eases off to a stairway of blocks up which it is easy to climb to a large oak tree with a rap station. Dick Williams describes this as a dying oak tree in his 2004 guide but as of June 2010 it seemed to me to be very much alive and thriving (but see comment below; as of 2013, not so alive). From here, a single 60 meter rope rap just makes it to the ground.
Direct finish: Williams describes a new direct finish in his 2004 guide, which climbs straight up from the end of pitch 1 to a small roof (crux), after which one climbs straight to the top.
I explored up to the roof, found the hold just under the roof to be a bit less of a jug than I expected, and then couldn't tell where to go. There is a lot of lichen over the roof and it seemed unclear to me whether to go left or right; there were no obvious holds I could see. It did not appear this variation had seen a ton of traffic. The tree at the top is higher than the traditional finish, so you will likely need two ropes to rap, or you can walk a short distance to the Ursula rap station, which will get you down with a single rope in two raps.
P1: Start up the corner, using the crack and face holds on the left to advance. At the roof about 15-20 feet up step left and continue following the corner upwards. There is a crux bulge, but in my opinion all of the climbing is pretty straightforward 5.6 or easier, and is well-protected. As you get higher there are numerous left-facing flakes in the corner that provide good holds. At about the 80 foot level, there is a dirt ledge at which you can build an optional gear belay-- I did not; I finished the climb as a single pitch.
Original P2: A shorter, easier pitch. After a few more moves upward, the rock to the right eases off to a stairway of blocks up which it is easy to climb to a large oak tree with a rap station. Dick Williams describes this as a dying oak tree in his 2004 guide but as of June 2010 it seemed to me to be very much alive and thriving (but see comment below; as of 2013, not so alive). From here, a single 60 meter rope rap just makes it to the ground.
Direct finish: Williams describes a new direct finish in his 2004 guide, which climbs straight up from the end of pitch 1 to a small roof (crux), after which one climbs straight to the top.
I explored up to the roof, found the hold just under the roof to be a bit less of a jug than I expected, and then couldn't tell where to go. There is a lot of lichen over the roof and it seemed unclear to me whether to go left or right; there were no obvious holds I could see. It did not appear this variation had seen a ton of traffic. The tree at the top is higher than the traditional finish, so you will likely need two ropes to rap, or you can walk a short distance to the Ursula rap station, which will get you down with a single rope in two raps.
Location
About 45 feet to the right and uphill from Groovy, at the obvious clean, left-facing corner with a roof above at 15-20 feet and numerous left-facing flakes above that.
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