Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit:
facebook.com/friendsofindia… saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2… 2024 Raptor Avoidance Areas (LIFTED 9/10/2024)- The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. See map in photos section.
Each spring raptors return to the Indian Creek area for nesting. Eagles, falcons, hawks, and other migratory birds use shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls to build nests, often returning to the same site year after year to raise their young. The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) requests that visitors and recreationists avoid these areas during critical nesting periods which typically start in early March and last through late August. Avoiding recreational activity in the vicinity of the nest sites along and maintaining a safe viewing distance will help ensure survival of young birds.
Beginning March 1, the public is asked to avoid climbing in areas that are historically known to have raptor nesting activity or have a high potential for nesting. Areas that have potential nesting activity are referred to in many climbing guidebooks as: The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall and Critic’s Choice. While this list serves as a guide, it does not indicate every avoidance area or encompass all known names of the affected climbing areas. Please refer to the provided “Raptor Protection Map” to identify avoidance areas. The BLM is coordinating these raptor protection efforts with the Utah School and Institutional Trust Lands Administration, who is the administrator of the climbing areas known as Disappointment Cliffs and portions of the Second Meat Wall climbing area. The avoidance areas only cover a portion of Disappointment Cliffs, see the map for additional details.
In March, BLM biologists will begin the annual surveys of raptor activity to verify which historic nest sites are being used. Typically, by late April or early May, biologists can identify the nesting areas the raptors have selected. At that time the areas without active nests will be cleared for recreational use. The BLM requests that climbers, campers, and hikers completely avoid areas with active nests until the young birds have fledged, which is usually by late summer. Biologists will monitor nesting activity throughout the season and keep the recreation community informed of potential changes. Avoidance area notices and maps will be posted throughout the Indian Creek Corridor during the recreation season.
While falcons and eagles are not overly common sights in southeastern Utah, they are present throughout the area and keen-eyed observers are sometimes rewarded with their aerial acrobatics. Visitors can watch adult birds hunt or observe the antics of young raptors perfecting their flying techniques. These species in Utah continue to recover from low population levels, thanks in part to cooperation from the public, climbing communities and governmental partners. The BLM would like to remind the public there are private land holdings throughout the Indian Creek Corridor. Please respect private landowners’ boundaries and signage.
For questions about this avoidance areas, raptors, and migratory bird habitat in the Monticello area, please contact Rachel Wootton with the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500. Persons who use a telecommunications device for the deaf (TTY) may call 711 to leave a message or question. The TTY Relay System is available 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Replies are provided during normal business hours.
blm.gov/announcement/blm-an…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
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There's a route on Battle of the Bulge, between Crack Attack and the Big Baby (closer to Crack Attack) that's not in my guidebook. It's about 50-60' long it's a black left facing corner/open book (wider than 90 degrees) It starts thin fingers, then gets tighter and tighter until you have to stem and use some pods. I'm pretty certain it's in the 5.12-12+ range. Does anyone know what this is? Thanks Mar 25, 2003
2. The Super Bowl camping area is located on the left, just before thesignposted turn-off for Davis Canyon (access for the Six-shooters). This is about 11 miles from Newspaper Rock, on the left. I've not seen this area for a couple years. It had a portable toilet, and was easy to access back then. Should still be the same.
3. Other camping areas include:Newspaper Rock, which is often busy, but is nice and shady, and has pittoilets. The Hamburger Rock area is a mile or so past the Davis Canyon turn-off (maybe15 miles from Newspaper Rock) and is on the right. Look for a large wooded BLM sign, with directions. This is an easy 2WD mile or so off of the main road, and is usually frequented by hikers, and is usually ignored by climbers (kind of a long commute from the climbing). There are pit toilets here.There is also undeveloped camping within Cottonwood Canyon beyond the Dugout Ranch area to the southwest (near Pistol Whipped Wall). Also along Davis Canyon Road, but this road becomes very rough, very quickly.
4. There are two areas which are currently designated as No Camping: a. The inner canyon area between Newspaper Rock and the Dugout Ranch/Reservoir.This includes the side-canyons. b. The Lavender Canyon area. This is the pristine area beyond the BridgerJacks, extending along the west side of the Bridger Jack Mesa.**************** An add-on by H.R. Barnard
- ***************I was at the super bowl about 3 weeks ago. It is very accessible to lowclearance vehicles. Another tip on finding it to add to Crusher's. Rightbefore the turn there is a short but very noticeable, slightly curving distinct downhill section of the road. The gate to the superbowl isimmediately after that. There was also a small nature conservancy/BLM IndianCreek brochure box located at the gate to help identify it. Don't be detered byall the RV-type vehicles you see initially. Stay to the left of where theypark and you'll find the climber camping.****************
May 8, 2003Maui Postma Jul 12, 2003
the left hand route went up the right side of a flake on great hands and then burrows into a sweet squeeze chimney. the squeeze is capped by a hand crack that quickly tapers to a lieback to get to the anchors. (5.9 until layback topout, maybe 10b, approx 80 feet).
the right hand route (about 15 feet to the right) was pretty low angle. it started with a finger lieback to get onto a small pedestal. then it was low angled ringlocks and tight hands for a ways. finally, there is kind of an angled slot/recess with tight hands (this part is steeper). (maybe 10b or so, approx 60 feet?)
thanks for the info. both routes were excellent. Oct 14, 2003
Boulder, CO
Some guidelines to consider for new anchors:
1. Use deep half inch bolts when possible (a power drill drills a better hole, and even though it is heavy on the hike, it can drop in a 4 1/2 X 1/2 inch hole in about 15 seconds).
2.Three eighths is your second choice.
3. Leave the baby angles at home. I have cleaned these antiquated things with embarrassingly little effort. They are difficult to place, anyway, even by experienced drillers (hence the ones sticking out an inch from the wall). Besides, they are more expensive than expansion bolts.
4. Use steel anchors. Webbing is visually gross and wears out quickly becoming unsafe. There are many cheap options at your local hardware store.
5. Camo the anchors. Every hardware store carries a brown primer that is exactly the color of windgate.
5. Make the link to the rope replaceable without having to replace the entire setup (ie: screwlinks or old biners).
A major complaint against climbers in indian creek and across the country is the visual impact of bolts and anchors, so this is an access issue and a safety issue.
Finally, those of you who carry a bolt kit for beefing up anchors, consider carrying enough gear to replace the entire thing with steel hardware and good bolts. This will avoid creating those confusing rats nest anchors that we always see out there. If one out of every one hundred parties replaced one anchor, the place would be cleaned up in no time.
Thanks
Chris Kalous
Climbing Magazine ARI volunteer.
PS: If you put up routes with single bolt anchors, you're cheap and lazy. Nov 8, 2006
Salt Lake City, UT
Whitefish, MT
...As you know, one of our dogs is missing from the Dugout Ranch (aka Indian Creek area). Please forward this email to anyone who may be able to help.
"Jack" is a female Kelpie/Boxer cross, with distinctive black and white markings and a couple brown spots on her cheek. (pictures attached) She is a very sweet, affectionate and friendly dog who went missing shortly before Thanksgiving. Jack's brother was picked up by a female rock climber on 11/23 and was TAKEN to Moab. This climber kept our dog for a week before reporting it to the Humane Society, where I finally tracked him down on 12/3.
Jack is unfortunately still missing. She was wearing a brown leather collar with a brass nameplate riveted to it that clearly stated she lives at Dugout Ranch, along with all our contact information.
If anyone has any information at all, or someone in town has s dog matching her description, please contact us at this email or leave a message at 435-459-0018 . Feel free to email if you have any questions or need more information.
Also, I thought you should know this is not the first time this has happened. Perhaps if we can get the word out, this type of thing will happen less frequently. I am planning to post flyers at the kiosks down here as well.
Please advise people: If you see a "stray" dog at Indian Creek, bring it to the ranch to ask before you make any assumptions. The bottom line: you are climbing and camping on private and leased property, where these dogs live and work daily. Please have some common sense. Our dogs are very friendly and will not forgo attention! Because they let you pet them (or feed them!) does not mean they are strays.
Thank you,
Melinda & Adam Redd
melindaredd@yahoo.com Dec 7, 2008
USA
Imagine showing up at Supercrack Buttress mid day on a saturday and having your pick of any climb!?! Yeah, that's how it was. Sep 8, 2009
This offer has since expired (3/9/16). Mar 26, 2010
Tucson
Lander, WY
Curious to see if anybody has any heartburn about it, if not i will try to get started on some of the smaller walls first. this will probably take some trial and error, so if i muff one up feel free to criticize/slander accordingly.
also, i am going to try to go through and merge duplicate entries. this might take a while.
thanks. Dec 13, 2013
Seattle, WA
I am only looking at BD Camalots to keep it simple.
I used to think it was the transition from old to new Camalots, but I find that even with the newer books there are discrepancies.
Supertopo 2013 Optimal C4 range sizes:
.3 - 3/4"
.4- 1"
.5 - 1 1/4"
.75- 1 1/2- 1 3/4"
#1 - 1 3/4 -2"
#2 - 2- 2 1/2"
#3- 3- 3 1/2"
#4 - 3 1/2- 4 1/2"
#5 - 4 1/2- 5 1/2"
#6 - 5 1/2 -7"
Actual Optimal C4 range sizes:
.3 - 5/8"
.4 - 3/4"
.5 - 1"
.75 - 1 1/4"
#1 -1 9/16'
#2 - 1 15/16"
#3 - 2 11/16"
#4 - 3 7/16"
#5 - 4 5/8'
#6 - 6"
Some might object that I am including 1/16", but you will see that even without the 1/16" the numbers are way off. I measured the cams working range too, but am just including the sweet spot, best position placement. I usually try to figure out for myself what cams are needed for any given pitch, but since Supertopo suggests rack sizes for routes this might confuse a few newer leaders.
I add this here because the Bloom books have the sizes sometimes off too. Jan 12, 2014
Loveland, CO
- in case anyone else needs this beta the nearest climbing shop is in Moab. Aprox. one hour drive from climbing areas. If your looking for partners supercrack butress is always full of people and there are also a number of message boards at the different campsites you can leave a note at for other singles. Oct 6, 2014
Verdi, NV
Salt Lake City, UT
Thanks! Nov 12, 2015
Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Burbank, CA
Salt Lake City, UT
Salt Lake City, UT
As the guidebook outlines, spring and fall are the best-bet weather times in general, although the high dessert climate can be fickle at any point in those seasons - for example, in two trips during the same March week 2 years in a row, I experienced low-70s F highs one year and low-40s F highs the next year. Check and monitor climbingweather.com/Utah/In… to be prepared, and give the rock at least 24 hours to dry after any rainfall.
A great tactic for a first visit is to borrow up multiple racks of cams (literally up to 8-10 sets of #.5-#4 cams is ideal to cover all climbs), and come with friends who've been here before and can do all or most of the leading, as the learning curve can be steep and you can easily spend a whole first trip flailing and frustrated. Instead, consider just starting with a top roping spree and working on different hand sizes and jam sequences ("swimming", "karate chopping", thumbs-down and thumbs-up jams, "fat hands" and fists) until you've cultivated the ability to trust your jams, rest on your toes, and cleanly toprope most of the climbs you can get on through 5.10/5.10+. Obviously, the usual caveats about sharing climbs thoughtfully and only top-roping off your draws/biners should apply.
Then go home and digest the outstanding Crack Climber's Technique Manual:
fixedpin.com/products/the-c…
and come back the next trip to try and lead what you top-roped the first trip.
For the third trip, maybe start dipping into crack sizes that aren't good fits for your hands (#1 cracks if you're big-handed, or #2-#3 cracks if you're small-handed), and so on.
I definitely had a lot more fun on 2nd and 3rd trips than I did the first, so approach this place with patience and you'll definitely be rewarded. Apr 10, 2017
The author is also donating 100% of his royalties to the Access and Sharp End is adding $1.00/book, as well.
A Limited Edition Bears Ears cover is available for pre-order.
stores.sharpendbooks.com/cr… Jul 2, 2018
Bend, OR
Vitoria, ES
Westminster, Colorado
Some updated information on spring/summer 2019 raptor nesting and climbing avoidance areas for IC:
"We just issued a news release and map of the active rapture nesting areas in the Indian Creek Corridor. Here is the web address to the News Release ( blm.gov/press-release/annou…). The ?map? is attached to the news release the link is on the right hand side.
Background Information: compliance not to climb in these areas is voluntary and and strongly encouraged, as human disturbance can affect nesting success, however the routes are not legally closed. This requires additional environmental reviews and public notification through the Federal Register, which takes some time. Because of this, we are referring to these routes as "climbing avoidance areas" rather than closures. The entire climbing community is generally very supportive and helpful in these raptor protection efforts, and we hope these voluntary efforts will help keep these locations open outside of the nesting season for your enjoyment.
Please be aware of climbing routes that have nesting raptors. This News Release requests climbers' cooperation in protecting eagles, peregrine falcons, and other migratory birds who use the Indian Creek area to raise their young. Between March 1st and August 31st each year, the BLM asks climbers to avoid climbing these walls until they have been cleared by agency biologists: The Wall, Far Side, Second Meat Wall, Disappointment Cliff, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. Two of these walls are on partially or wholly on lands managed by SITLA, who is working cooperatively with BLM to protect raptors. The BLM and SITLA will survey walls and generally in May can release any routes that don't have active nests. The walls with active nests should be avoided until the young have fledged. Eagles and falcons mate for life and return to the same nest sites year after year to raise their young, your cooperation is vital to their survival. Here is a link to the news release and map of the affected areas (add link here). Signs will also be posted at the main trailheads.
Please let me know if you have any questions- Thanks!
Jason Byrd
BLM Outdoor Recreation Planner
Monticello, UT 84535
435-587-1534
jbyrd@blm.gov " Feb 19, 2019
Westminster, Colorado
News Release
Monticello Field Office, Utah
FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE Contact: Lisa Bryant
April XX, 2019 (435) 259-2187
BLM completes first phase of nesting surveys in the Indian Creek area.
Updates for routes and walls available for climbing:
MONTICELLO, Utah – The BLM appreciates the cooperation shown by the climbing community in avoiding potential raptor nesting areas in the Indian Creek Climbing area. The BLM is actively conducting raptor nesting surveys and additionally has also worked with agency partners and HawkWatch International to conduct additional surveys in the area. The first phase of surveys are complete. The BLM will continue to monitor the area and provide further updates.
Climbers are being asked to continue avoiding walls commonly referenced in climbing guides and websites as “The Wall, Reservoir Wall, Cat Wall and 1st Meat Wall”, as monitoring is ongoing in these areas. Please see the attached map for the extent of the buffered avoidance areas. All other areas are anticipated to be free of active nests and can be climbed without risk of endangering young birds or successful fledging. There is still a slight chance that birds may be locating nests, as the cool spring weather has delayed and extended the nesting season. If you observe raptors mating or nesting, please avoid them and report the locations to the BLM or Utah School and Institutional Trust Lands Administration.
The BLM will continue monitoring efforts throughout the season and will notify the public once young birds have fledged, which is expected before the fall climbing season begins. Trailhead notices and maps will be updated as well.
The desert canyons of southeastern Utah provide habitat for falcons, eagles, and other birds of prey. Visitors with keen eyes are sometimes rewarded with their aerial acrobatics. The BLM would like to remind everyone to respect wildlife and retain a safe viewing distance. These species in Utah continue to recover from low population levels, thanks in part to cooperation from the public, climbing communities and governmental partners.
For questions about raptors and migratory bird habitat or recreational climbing in the Indian Creek area, please contact Thomas Plank or Jason Byrd at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500. A map depicting updated climbing avoidance areas is provided with this release and will be posted at trailheads.
Persons who use a telecommunications device for the deaf (TDD) may call the Federal Relay Service (FRS) at 1-800-877-8339 to leave a message or question. The FRS is available 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Replies are provided during normal business hours.
We await a .jpg image of the updated map. Apr 24, 2019
Westminster, Colorado
The BLM thanks the climbing community for their cooperation.
MONTICELLO, Utah – The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) sincerely thanks the climbing community for their efforts to avoid raptor nesting sites during the past nesting season. All walls within the Indian Creek corridor are available for fall climbing.
In February, the BLM asked climbers to voluntarily avoid climbing on routes near historic nest sites in the Indian Creek climbing area. Minimizing disturbance during crucial egg incubation and brood rearing periods for peregrine falcons, eagles, and other raptors is critical to successfully rearing young. A BLM wildlife biologist monitored active nests weekly throughout the season. At mid-season the BLM cleared several walls for climbing where the agency confirmed no nesting activity. Through continued monitoring, the BLM determined at least two peregrine falcon pairs reared chicks and they have successfully fledged.
“Cooperative stewardship efforts of public land managers, biologists, ranchers and farmers, and wildlife conservationists, and recreationists helped remove peregrines from the Federal Endangered Species list in 1999,” said Lisa Bryant, Canyon Country spokesperson. “Thanks to these continued cooperative efforts, falcon, eagle, and hawk populations continue to rebound and rapters often grace the cliffs and skies of southeastern Utah.”
Peregrine falcons are remarkable birds that nest and hunt in the cliffs surrounding Indian Creek. They can fly up to 70 miles per hour and reach up to 200 miles per hour in free fall dives. However, despite their speed and agility, fifty years ago these birds were in danger and their population levels were very low. Being a good steward means respecting wildlife and maintaining a safe viewing distance. Voluntarily avoiding climbing routes with historical and active nests during the nesting season helps protect raptors and reduces the need for mandatory restrictions.
For questions about raptors, please contact BLM Wildlife Biologist Thomas Plank. For questions about climbing and recreation in the Indian Creek area, please contact BLM Outdoor Recreation Planner Jason Byrd. Both may be reached at the Monticello Field Office (435) 587-1500. Oct 11, 2019
NV
San Francisco, Saratoga Spr…
Salt Lake City
I think this also brings into question the sensibility of having armed federal officers enforcing campground regulations. I had the exact same situation arise in the City of Rocks (ID)- 2nd morning, hadn't paid dues yet, etc. The ranger rolled up and was friendly, collected the dues we owed right there, and went on his way. Wasn't armed and wasn't under the impression that a badge meant he needed to be suspicious of everything. I understand the need for camping fees and enforcement, however, there are plenty of dirtbag climbers in need of a quick buck who could do that job cheaper & better than a federal LEO. Nov 8, 2020
Monticello, UT
Gunnison, CO
1) Do not park on crypto! Saw a blue tacoma parked directly on the flourishing crypto at "The Wall". If a crag is full find a good spot and walk or simply choose another crag for the day. That damage is going to last for a long time.
2) Drove past someone leaving scarface area carrying a huge log they found.... WTF. DO NOT GATHER FIREWOOD IN THE DESERT. It takes years for sensitive environments to develop the carbon it needs to sustain itself. Removing it has a far bigger impact than you may think. Nov 30, 2021
Monticello, UT
Seattle, WA
Love Muffin Cafe in Moab is a bit of a climbers' hang and has excellent breakfast burritos and coffee. Lazy Lizard hostel has cheap showers and lodging. Nov 29, 2022
Moab, UT
Here's the link to the schedule: eplanning.blm.gov/eplanning… Apr 22, 2024
Monticello, UT
Some great shots of Supercrack and Incredible Hand Crack when they were still crispy. Dec 8, 2024