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Inverted Staircase
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British PG13
Avg: 2.7 from 22
votes
Routes in North Face
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Arsonist, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Captain Fairview T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Fairest of All T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Fairview Heights T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Fiddler on the Roof T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Inverted Staircase T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Lyme Line T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Regular Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rumor Has It T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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| Type: | Trad, 1200 ft (364 m), 9 pitches, Grade IV |
| FA: | Glen Denny, Wally Reed July 1962, FFA Bob Kamps, Wally Reed August 1963 |
| Page Views: | 4,884 total · 26/month |
| Shared By: | john durr on Jul 25, 2009 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
Inverted Staircase is a beautiful obvious line. The climbing is pretty good, but not great. Mostly moderate cracks with two hard pitches.
Pitch 1 & 2 climb cracks just right of the big arch, aim for an obvious small roof in a right facing corner that marks the first belay. Surmount the fun roof then moderate climbing to the corner. 5.8/5.9
Pitch 3 & 4 climb the corner above, moving onto the face midway through pitch three to avoid the chimney then head back to the corner to belay. The next pitch goes up the nice corner to the top right side of the pinnacle. 5.7/5.8
Pitch 5 is thin friction and small hold face. Go down and out right a ways to a bolt. Just past this is 5.10 face with good swing potential for your second. Ascend a loose pillar, I placed several micro-nuts here. The hard face climbing above past two bolts is well protected. 5.10b/c
Pitch 6 is usually wet midway through, but fun liebacking and unclinging is had before the wet and the corner above is stellar. Plan on aiding on a couple cams to pass the wet. 5.10-
Pitch 7 follow this route up and left aiming for a moderate thin double dihedral then belay at a small tree. 5.8
Pitch 8 with a bolt leads straight out right to a easy ramp. 5.10a briefly
Pitch 9 is a little spooky makes a traverse out right past a loose block, a dihedral 5.8 and over an easy roof to 300' of easy ground.
Pitch 1 & 2 climb cracks just right of the big arch, aim for an obvious small roof in a right facing corner that marks the first belay. Surmount the fun roof then moderate climbing to the corner. 5.8/5.9
Pitch 3 & 4 climb the corner above, moving onto the face midway through pitch three to avoid the chimney then head back to the corner to belay. The next pitch goes up the nice corner to the top right side of the pinnacle. 5.7/5.8
Pitch 5 is thin friction and small hold face. Go down and out right a ways to a bolt. Just past this is 5.10 face with good swing potential for your second. Ascend a loose pillar, I placed several micro-nuts here. The hard face climbing above past two bolts is well protected. 5.10b/c
Pitch 6 is usually wet midway through, but fun liebacking and unclinging is had before the wet and the corner above is stellar. Plan on aiding on a couple cams to pass the wet. 5.10-
Pitch 7 follow this route up and left aiming for a moderate thin double dihedral then belay at a small tree. 5.8
Pitch 8 with a bolt leads straight out right to a easy ramp. 5.10a briefly
Pitch 9 is a little spooky makes a traverse out right past a loose block, a dihedral 5.8 and over an easy roof to 300' of easy ground.
Location
This route is about 200 meters left, (east) of the Regular Route. Find the start by looking for an obvious roof in a right facing dihedral that marks the first belay. This is just a bit right of the huge left facing corner/arch.
To descend, walk to the top then go down the south-southwest buttress, usually marked with a couple cairns. This is steep, long and painful in rock shoes.
This route would be difficult to retreat from without leaving lots of gear.
To descend, walk to the top then go down the south-southwest buttress, usually marked with a couple cairns. This is steep, long and painful in rock shoes.
This route would be difficult to retreat from without leaving lots of gear.
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