Japanese Gardens
5.11+ YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 4 pitches |
FA: | Lowell Anderson, Dave Page, Jim Stoddard. FFA: Terry Lien, Jon Nelson |
Page Views: | 23,498 total · 102/month |
Shared By: | jonah on Jan 27, 2006 · Updates |
Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
Description
A central, classic full-wall route.
P1 (short): Starts with a fun 10a section in a short left-facing dihedral. Trends right then back left and up a wide crack (protects great with a #3 Camalot). This "pitch" ends at the first chains.
P1 (full): Past the first chains, the wide section continues, with high steps and laybacking protected by a #4 Camalot. Two cruxes remain where the crack peters down to fingers then hands. Finish on a finger crack with big moves off edges and locks by stemming and traversing to the right (11b).
P2: A short jam/lieback that gets progressively harder until the last move (11b). Ledgy climbing leads to an anchor up and right.
P3: Step left and enter a flare with a fingercrack (11a). Physical jamming leads up around the left side of a roof and up a slab to a belay.
P4: A slab leads to steeper slab climbing through left-facing corners and arches (11c). Easier slabs then lead to a belay at the top of the wall (9).
(Jonah's description for P1, Drewsky's for P2-4.)
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