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> Yosemite NP
> Tuolumne Meadows
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> Cathedral Peak
> Southeast Slopes
John Muir Route (The Mountaineer's Route)
Easy 5th YDS 1+ French 3 Ewbanks I UIAA 5 ZA M 1c British PG13
Avg: 2.9 from 65
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Routes in Southeast Slopes
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John Muir Route (The Mountaineer's Route) T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c PG13 |
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Southeast Buttress T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 400 ft (121 m) |
| FA: | John Muir, Sep 7, 1869 |
| Page Views: | 20,095 total · 156/month |
| Shared By: | Ben Parsons on Jun 29, 2014 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
Sections of 4th and easy 5th class moves interspersed with first class ledges for breathing room on one of the most aesthetic peaks anywhere. What's more to want? Route spoilers below for you purists.
John Muir logged his first ascent in chapter 10 of My First Summer in the Sierra.
John Muir logged his first ascent in chapter 10 of My First Summer in the Sierra.
Location
Park or take the shuttle to the Cathedral Lakes trailhead. Follow the trail south and uphill for about 10 minutes. On your left there will be a dead log, and the climber's trail beyond this. Take this trail for about an hour; it follows Budd creek for a while and will eventually deposit you at the base of Cathedral Peak. Walk/scramble up the right side of the mountain towards a notch a couple hundred feet below the summit. This is probably the best place to take a break and prepare for 4th/5th class scrambling. Once at the notch, descend ~50 feet on the far side of the peak and follow the path of least resistance across the slope: 3rd-4th class. Aim for ridge that connects Eichorn to the peak proper. Stay to the left of this ridge and ascend again towards the true summit: 4th class with a few easy 5th class moves. Once you're about 30 feet below the summit, make an airy, 4th and easy 5th class traverse to a small belay stance at the base of the crack system that will take you to the summit. Rope up at the stance, or before making the traverse. Enjoy the exposure, and bomber handjams and holds will take you to the top. The summit crack felt to be about 5.5-5.6. The PG-13 rating is if you do the summit block ropeless. A fall here would almost certainly be catastrophic.
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