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Routes in Black Velvet Wall
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A Dream of Ultraviolet Unicorns T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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American Flesh Dance (Combination of The Flesh plus American Ghost Dance) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Cutting Edge T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Dream of Wild Turkeys T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Epinephrine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fiddler on the Roof T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Fiddler Roof, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Gobbler, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hybrid Drive T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Johnny Come Lately S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Jugs on Drugs T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Malicious Mischief T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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My Little Pony T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Norepinephrine T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Old Fashioned T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Overhanging Hangover T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Prince of Darkness T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Refried Brains T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rock Warrior T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Sandstone Samurai T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X |
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Smooth as Silk T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Sour Mash T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sourpuss T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Spark Plug T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Steel Monkey T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Velveeta T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Yellow Brick Road T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Sam Boyce and Lani Chapko Wither 2019 |
| Page Views: | 3,325 total · 58/month |
| Shared By: | Lani Chapko on Apr 30, 2020 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
P1 130’ 5.8 head up rambly cracks to an obvious Bombay. Face climb out the Bombay and up into an easy crack that leads to a great ledge. A cool, very 3D pitch. Belay takes most anything
P2 180’ 5.9+ step right into varnished flare. Stem wide and into another Bombay. Awkwardly exit the Bombay and continue up the OW until you can move right and climb the steep runout face (5.7). (You can also continue to battle your way up the OW with gear - 5.9) Traverse back to the main crack at a horizontal to a finger crack flake. Build a semi-hanging belay at a stance where this crack widens to a hand crack.
P3 170’ 5.7 Traverse right on an easy but slightly runout slab to a varnished right facing corner. Climb the sweet face just right of the corner, placing gear in the corner when you can reach. Head up into a big low fifth chimney feature and belay on a huge ledge with a splitter hand crack.
P4 100’ 5.8 head up the splitter. If you brought a 4 continue up the OW, or traverse right to a slightly easier but runout and insecure goove. Either way end at a large bushy ledge.
Descent: Scramble climbers left 100ft to a large slung bolder. One 55m rap puts you in the gully. Scramble and downclimb this canyon (one optional rappel for a 5.4 chimney) and link into the right gully, walkoff for “Only the Good Die Young” which puts you on the Wholesome Fulback approach. It’s also possible to bushwhack to the base of the route (left gully), but that means more walking.
P2 180’ 5.9+ step right into varnished flare. Stem wide and into another Bombay. Awkwardly exit the Bombay and continue up the OW until you can move right and climb the steep runout face (5.7). (You can also continue to battle your way up the OW with gear - 5.9) Traverse back to the main crack at a horizontal to a finger crack flake. Build a semi-hanging belay at a stance where this crack widens to a hand crack.
P3 170’ 5.7 Traverse right on an easy but slightly runout slab to a varnished right facing corner. Climb the sweet face just right of the corner, placing gear in the corner when you can reach. Head up into a big low fifth chimney feature and belay on a huge ledge with a splitter hand crack.
P4 100’ 5.8 head up the splitter. If you brought a 4 continue up the OW, or traverse right to a slightly easier but runout and insecure goove. Either way end at a large bushy ledge.
Descent: Scramble climbers left 100ft to a large slung bolder. One 55m rap puts you in the gully. Scramble and downclimb this canyon (one optional rappel for a 5.4 chimney) and link into the right gully, walkoff for “Only the Good Die Young” which puts you on the Wholesome Fulback approach. It’s also possible to bushwhack to the base of the route (left gully), but that means more walking.
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