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Lake Tahoe Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in Lake Tahoe

Carson Pass Highway (88) 470

Highway 50 Corridor 954

I-80 Corridor 1,982

Markleeville Area 31

South Shore 391

Truckee River Canyon 139

West Shore 229

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Elevation:	8,398 ft	2,560 m
GPS:	39.1089, -120.23679 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	8,649,047 total · 37,533/month
Shared By:	Orphaned on Feb 18, 2006 · Updates
Admins:	Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

The Lake Tahoe Basin and surrounding region covers a vast expanse of the northern Sierra Nevada and holds a lifetime of climbing, mostly on fine-grained, high-quality granite. Trad climbing is the name of the game here and notable/large areas include Donner Summit, Lover's Leap, Woodford's Canyon, and Calaveras Dome, among countless other "smaller" areas that are just as good. Although not necessarily a bolt clipper's paradise, there are a few concentrations of sport climbing, including Big Chief, the Emeralds, Bowman Lake, and Mayhem Cove. Further, most of the major (and minor) trad areas host at least a smattering of sport routes, if not a fairly substantial number (e.g., Donner Summit). Boulders are literally everywhere in Tahoe and to even try to grasp the volume of problems, pick up any of the 4 (!) bouldering guides currently available for the region...

Much of the climbing in the Lake Tahoe area is at higher elevations (6000-9000'), and is covered with snow for a substantial portion of the year. As such, the large majority of crags are best in late spring/summer/fall, although it can depend on how wet the winter is. Fairly reliable winter climbing spots include Sugarloaf, the south-facing side of Woodford's, Auburn Quarry, and a handful of other small, south-facing crags scattered about.

Getting There

By Road

From the Bay Area, head up Highway 80 to Sacramento, where you will either head up into the hills either on 80, 50, or 89, depending on where you're going.

From Reno, head up Highway 80 to go to North Lake destinations, or down highway 395 , and then West on highway 89 into South Lake Tahoe.

By Air

The nearest city with commercial flights is Reno. For some Tahoe areas, Sacramento's airport might be a viable second option. Each one still requires a drive into the mountains.

By Rail

The first intercontinental railroad in the U.S. went over Donner Summit; one version of this line went through the Snowshed next to the climbing wall of the same name there. Amtrak still runs a train over the Sierra in this area, which runs through Truckee once a day or so. It's not cheap or fast compared to other modern travel to the Tahoe area, but is scenic (though it only goes by Donner Lake north and out of sight of Lake Tahoe).

Guidebooks

If you're climbing in the Lake Tahoe area, do yourself a favor and buy one (or more) of the excellent, recent guidebooks available for roped routes and bouldering.

North Tahoe: A Rock Climber's Guide: https://www.tahoeclimbing.com/

Bouldering Lake Tahoe: North Shore (2nd edition): https://kdanielspublishing.com/cart/index.php/guide-books/bouldering-lake-tahoe-north-shore-2nd-edition.html

Bouldering Lake Tahoe: West Shore (2nd edition): https://kdanielspublishing.com/cart/index.php/guide-books/bouldering-lake-tahoe-west-shore-2nd-edition.html

Bouldering Lake Tahoe: South Shore (2nd edition): https://kdanielspublishing.com/cart/index.php/guide-books/bouldering-lake-tahoe-south-shore-2nd-edition.html

Bouldering Lake Tahoe: Outlying Areas (2nd edition): kdanielspublishing.com/cart…

4,196 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lake Tahoe

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 919 ● Bear's Reach Trad 3 pitches Highway 50 Corr… > … > Main Formation > E Wall
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 1,340 ● Corrugation Corner Trad 3 pitches Highway 50 Corr… > … > Main Formation > Main Wall
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 374 ● One Hand Clapping Trad 4 pitches I-80 Corridor > … > Black Wall > 1. Black Wall - Left
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 705 ● The Line Trad 3 pitches Highway 50 Corr… > … > Main Formation > E Wall
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 412 ● Traveler Buttress Trad 4 pitches Highway 50 Corr… > … > Main Formation > Main Wall
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 273 ● Black September Trad I-80 Corridor > … > Black Wall > 3. Black Wall - Right
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 308 ● Nova Express Trad I-80 Corridor > … 1 > E Face > 3. E Face Main
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 277 ● Bottomless Topless Trad, TR I-80 Corridor > … 1 > N Face > 1. N Face Main
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 470 ● Hospital Corner Trad 2 pitches Highway 50 Corr… > … > Main Formation > W Wall
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 409 ● Surrealistic Pillar Direct Trad Highway 50 Corr… > Lover's Leap > Lower Buttress
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 266 ● Farewell To Arms Trad I-80 Corridor > … 1 > E Face > 3. E Face Main
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 267 ● Candyland Trad Highway 50 Corr… > Phantom Spires > Middle Spire
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 376 ● Step Into The Light Sport I-80 Corridor > … 1 2 > Kudos Cliff > Kudos Left
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 258 ● Aerial Sport I-80 Corridor > … 1 > N Face > 1. N Face Main
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 223 ● Peter Principle Trad, TR I-80 Corridor > … 1 > N Face > 1. N Face Main