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Laurel Knob Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Laurel Knob

L › R R › L A › Z

	'Shimer Down T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	A Second Way (Variation Finish to Seconds) T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Aloha slab T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Annie Get Your Guns T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Arrested Development T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Before the Settlers Arrive T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Better late than never T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Biopsy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Black Flag T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Buried Treasure T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Canyons of Laurel T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Central Pillar Direct Finish T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Central Pillar of Laurel T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Clippidy Doodah... S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Clowns to the Left of me T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Cotton Pony T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Cruising with the Top Down T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Defective Sonar T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Dike hike - Monster Groove T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Dillard Arete T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Don't call me surely T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Dry streak T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
	Fathom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Fathom Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
	Fathom Escape Hatch T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A2
	Finger Lickin' Good T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Friction Addiction T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Frolictown T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Fruit of the Poisonous Tree T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
	Funky Chicken, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Get it while it's hot T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
	Gibbet, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
	Girl friend route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Groover (Gaskin Finish) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Groover Variation (Fischesser Finish) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Groovin' in the name of the Laurel T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
	Have and Not Need T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	High & Dry T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Hone Ranger T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
	Hostis Humani Generis T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
	Hypocrite's Corner T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Jokers to the right T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Keel Hauled T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Laurel's Girdle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Laurel's Snake Dike T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Legendary "F" Bomb, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R
	Manatee Fluid T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Manatee Left T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Mechanical Bull T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
	Mirage T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
	Mirage Direct Finish T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Monster Groove Direct Start T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b A0
	Monster Groove Reject Start T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
	Mutiny T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Nana's Bananas T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Nanna Gets Her Groove On T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	O.K. Corral T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
	Oasis T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Old Times' Sake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Permission Granite T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Pipsissewa T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c R
	Pirate's Cove T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Pirate's cove Alt start T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Pirate's Cove direct finish T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
	Puff The Magic Dragon T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Quantum Mechanic's Arete T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Rejected Radar T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0 PG13
	Rock Eating Tree T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
	Route Of The Living Dead T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Seconds T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Squirrely man T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Steep in the Teacups of Laurel T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Stegg, Roy Fathom ALT. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Stellar Sonar T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Stemming Laurel T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Stingray T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Stranger Than Friction T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
	Tastes Like Chicken T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
	Two Rattlers in Your Face T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Unfathomable T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c A1 R
	Use It Express T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Use It Or Luge It T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Use it or Luge it Direct Start T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Walkin' Da Plank T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
	Wild Turkeys T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13
	Wild Wild West T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
	Wormhole T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

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Elevation:	3,463 ft	1,056 m
GPS:	35.15026, -83.0564 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By:	Andrew McDowell on Nov 17, 2006 · Updates
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See Weather Forecast

Access Issue: Post Hurricane Helene Accessibility of Crags Details

The CCC has created the list linked below of accessible and inaccessible climbing areas with some caveats. If you decide to head out for a day of climbing, please do not attempt to go to those marked ‘inaccessible’. Please note that all areas in WNC will have extensive tree damage and if you head out, use extra caution for all the trees above, especially on a windy day. Rock fall potential is also highest after a big weather event. Please use extra caution while climbing and prepare to self rescue if injured. Injury response time will be greatly limited for any injury currently, especially for a remote injury. Cell service is limited in all areas. Parking at accessible crags in the WNC/ Upstate SC region will likely be challenging. If the parking lot is full, go to a different area and do not park illegally or in a road. Make a plan B before leaving your house. Expect road detours on the way to the crag. NCdrive.gov updates road closures. Once you get to the crag, expect many trees blocking access trails and of course, come volunteer with the CCC to help us bring our climbing areas back!

carolinaclimbers.org/conten…

Access Issue: Falcon Closure 2024 Details

Laurel Knob Jan 15- Aug 14: All routes in the Dillard Canyon are closed to climbing during this period.

carolinaclimbers.org/conten…

Description

For many years, Laurel Knob was The Un-named Crag, a secret destination known to the chosen few. Climbing was illegal here, but that didnt stop the determined climbers who saw the imposing granite dome rising out of Lonesome Valley near Big Green Mountain. They thrashed and bushwhacked for hours through thick rhododendron to the base of the cliff, looking up in awe at an expanse of rock so tall they couldnt see the top.

Undeterred, these hardcore climbers began the first ascents of the exposed, water-grooved face, putting up routes of up to 10 pitches. And they made do with what they had: leaders who came later would arrive at the next bolt and discover with horror that it was a carriage bolt hammered into the wall with loops of rusty bailing wire to clip to.

Because it was a secret crag for so long, documentation on the first ascentionists and even route names isnt easy to come by. But that wont be the case much longer; in 2006, the Carolina Climbers Coalition pulled off the stunning achievement of purchasing Laurel Knob, with the help of donations by climbers all over the world. Now the 1,200-foot dome is open to all climbers, and the CCC has replaced the old hardware on most of the well-known routes like Fathom and Groover.

Some important points of information about Laurel Knob:

This is one of the tallest (if not THE tallest) crags in the eastern US.
LK is a remote area with serious multi-pitch climbing. It is not a place for inexperienced climbers.
Regarding access, Laurel Knob is owned by the Carolina Climbers Coalition, which is working hard to maintain good relations with neighboring landowners. If you're going to climb here, you MUST respect and follow the CCC rules, which can be found at carolinaclimbers.org.

Getting There

Laurel Knob is in the Cashiers Valley. Make your way to the town of Cashiers and take US 64 east of the town. Continue two or three miles to Cedar Creek Road and take a left (north). Follow this winding road into the hills until it intersects with Breedlove Road; turn onto Breedlove road and continue past Christmas tree farm fields for several miles. The road changes to gravel and ends in the Panthertown trailhead parking lot. This is the starting point for the long and strenuous hike in to Laurel Knob. Allow about two hours for the hike in and up to three hours for the hike out.

NOTE: This trail is the only legal access to Laurel Knob. If you come in from the valley below -- no matter who you're friends with -- you are trespassing!

Hike down the road toward Panthertown valley. Turn right/west onto the Deep Gap Trail (marked with a brown Forest Service trail marker), and continue about 10-15 minutes to a creek crossing (Frolictown Creek). Ford the creek and hike another mile or so to a fork. Take the right fork (the smaller trail) and after another 10 minutes or so, be on the lookout for a trail that angles up and right from the main trail. This should be marked by a small wooden sign saying "Laurel Knob," (35.15293, -83.04679).

Continue on this winding trail through the woods, crossing a stream on a log and past the marked corner of the property line between the CCC property and that of the forest service. Follow pink and/or blue flagged markers and cross over a mossy slab. Before long, you'll see a gravel road and buildings to the left; this is private property. Stick to the trail; continue past the CCC kiosk and down a steep 600' series of switchbacks to the base of the main Laurel Knob face.

At this point, you should come out on a well-groomed trail put in place by the Lonesome Valley development. Continue along this trail until you reach the small clearing at the base of the direct start of Seconds. From here, the Lonesome Valley trail goes down and left; the climbers' trail goes uphill from Seconds and continues along the cliff base.

87 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Laurel Knob

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 39 ● Groover Variation (Fischesser Fi… Trad 9 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 36 ● Groover (Gaskin Finish) Trad 6 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 80 ● Seconds Trad 7 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 61 ● Fathom Trad 8 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b 27 ● Central Pillar of Laurel Trad 5 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 10 ● Have and Not Need Trad, Sport 4 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R 16 ● Fathom Direct Trad 8 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 13 ● Route Of The Living Dead Trad 4 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 6 ● Dike hike - Monster Groove Trad 6 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c 11 ● Oasis Trad 6 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R 4 ● The Legendary "F" Bomb Trad 4 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c 7 ● The Funky Chicken Trad 2 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 11 ● Canyons of Laurel Trad 6 pitches
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a 12 ● Permission Granite Trad 5 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a 6 ● Nana's Bananas Trad 4 pitches