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Lavender Butte/The Happy Submarine Rock Climbing
Routes in Lavender Butte/The Happy Submarine
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Bert and Ernie Tower T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C1 |
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Haggis Tower T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lavender Towers, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C1 PG13 |
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Par Six Tower T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Seamen's Semen T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Undiscovered Country, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Vipper of Vipp, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1 |
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| Elevation: | 6,126 ft | 1,867 m |
| GPS: |
38.09838, -109.62686 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 8,213 total · 37/month | |
| Shared By: | Chris Kalous on Dec 22, 2006 · Updates | |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities!
Details
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
2024 Raptor Avoidance Areas (LIFTED 9/10/2024)- The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. See map in photos section.
Each spring raptors return to the Indian Creek area for nesting. Eagles, falcons, hawks, and other migratory birds use shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls to build nests, often returning to the same site year after year to raise their young. The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) requests that visitors and recreationists avoid these areas during critical nesting periods which typically start in early March and last through late August. Avoiding recreational activity in the vicinity of the nest sites along and maintaining a safe viewing distance will help ensure survival of young birds.
Beginning March 1, the public is asked to avoid climbing in areas that are historically known to have raptor nesting activity or have a high potential for nesting. Areas that have potential nesting activity are referred to in many climbing guidebooks as: The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall and Critic’s Choice. While this list serves as a guide, it does not indicate every avoidance area or encompass all known names of the affected climbing areas. Please refer to the provided “Raptor Protection Map” to identify avoidance areas. The BLM is coordinating these raptor protection efforts with the Utah School and Institutional Trust Lands Administration, who is the administrator of the climbing areas known as Disappointment Cliffs and portions of the Second Meat Wall climbing area. The avoidance areas only cover a portion of Disappointment Cliffs, see the map for additional details.
In March, BLM biologists will begin the annual surveys of raptor activity to verify which historic nest sites are being used. Typically, by late April or early May, biologists can identify the nesting areas the raptors have selected. At that time the areas without active nests will be cleared for recreational use. The BLM requests that climbers, campers, and hikers completely avoid areas with active nests until the young birds have fledged, which is usually by late summer. Biologists will monitor nesting activity throughout the season and keep the recreation community informed of potential changes. Avoidance area notices and maps will be posted throughout the Indian Creek Corridor during the recreation season.
While falcons and eagles are not overly common sights in southeastern Utah, they are present throughout the area and keen-eyed observers are sometimes rewarded with their aerial acrobatics. Visitors can watch adult birds hunt or observe the antics of young raptors perfecting their flying techniques. These species in Utah continue to recover from low population levels, thanks in part to cooperation from the public, climbing communities and governmental partners. The BLM would like to remind the public there are private land holdings throughout the Indian Creek Corridor. Please respect private landowners’ boundaries and signage.
For questions about this avoidance areas, raptors, and migratory bird habitat in the Monticello area, please contact Rachel Wootton with the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500. Persons who use a telecommunications device for the deaf (TTY) may call 711 to leave a message or question. The TTY Relay System is available 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Replies are provided during normal business hours.
blm.gov/announcement/blm-an…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
2024 Raptor Avoidance Areas (LIFTED 9/10/2024)- The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. See map in photos section.
Each spring raptors return to the Indian Creek area for nesting. Eagles, falcons, hawks, and other migratory birds use shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls to build nests, often returning to the same site year after year to raise their young. The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) requests that visitors and recreationists avoid these areas during critical nesting periods which typically start in early March and last through late August. Avoiding recreational activity in the vicinity of the nest sites along and maintaining a safe viewing distance will help ensure survival of young birds.
Beginning March 1, the public is asked to avoid climbing in areas that are historically known to have raptor nesting activity or have a high potential for nesting. Areas that have potential nesting activity are referred to in many climbing guidebooks as: The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall and Critic’s Choice. While this list serves as a guide, it does not indicate every avoidance area or encompass all known names of the affected climbing areas. Please refer to the provided “Raptor Protection Map” to identify avoidance areas. The BLM is coordinating these raptor protection efforts with the Utah School and Institutional Trust Lands Administration, who is the administrator of the climbing areas known as Disappointment Cliffs and portions of the Second Meat Wall climbing area. The avoidance areas only cover a portion of Disappointment Cliffs, see the map for additional details.
In March, BLM biologists will begin the annual surveys of raptor activity to verify which historic nest sites are being used. Typically, by late April or early May, biologists can identify the nesting areas the raptors have selected. At that time the areas without active nests will be cleared for recreational use. The BLM requests that climbers, campers, and hikers completely avoid areas with active nests until the young birds have fledged, which is usually by late summer. Biologists will monitor nesting activity throughout the season and keep the recreation community informed of potential changes. Avoidance area notices and maps will be posted throughout the Indian Creek Corridor during the recreation season.
While falcons and eagles are not overly common sights in southeastern Utah, they are present throughout the area and keen-eyed observers are sometimes rewarded with their aerial acrobatics. Visitors can watch adult birds hunt or observe the antics of young raptors perfecting their flying techniques. These species in Utah continue to recover from low population levels, thanks in part to cooperation from the public, climbing communities and governmental partners. The BLM would like to remind the public there are private land holdings throughout the Indian Creek Corridor. Please respect private landowners’ boundaries and signage.
For questions about this avoidance areas, raptors, and migratory bird habitat in the Monticello area, please contact Rachel Wootton with the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500. Persons who use a telecommunications device for the deaf (TTY) may call 711 to leave a message or question. The TTY Relay System is available 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Replies are provided during normal business hours.
blm.gov/announcement/blm-an…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
This is the large butte N by NW of the Bridger Jacks, across Lavender Canyon. It forms a similar buttress between Lavender and Davis Canyons. It is a wingate mesa with a cap, similar in scale to Bridger Jack Butte. Dan Gambino and I named it the Happy Submarine because from the south it looks like a sub, complete with tower and rudder (some say it also looks like a Cadillac, a cruise ship, and, from the north, a buffalo). The rudder, actually, is a small separate tower that is rumored to have been climbed. In 2001 (I think that is when I was there?), I did not see any anchors. I don't know if The HS had a name before that, but I believe we made the first ascent of the thing so...? Lavender Butte is supposedly the Navajo butte on the mesa to the west.
In 2001, I saw some anchors on the smaller end near the rudder that did not appear to link to the top. The Quinlans have added a couple one pitch routes on the south side, I believe. The very top had no sign of an ascent, so we sprayed our egos on it by building a cairn and leaving a business card. I then held Dan up over the bow while he screamed "I'm the king of the world". It was a nice moment for us both.
This thing has the potential to have more routes than Bridger Jack Butte as it is much larger. There are definitely new lines to be done!
In 2001, I saw some anchors on the smaller end near the rudder that did not appear to link to the top. The Quinlans have added a couple one pitch routes on the south side, I believe. The very top had no sign of an ascent, so we sprayed our egos on it by building a cairn and leaving a business card. I then held Dan up over the bow while he screamed "I'm the king of the world". It was a nice moment for us both.
This thing has the potential to have more routes than Bridger Jack Butte as it is much larger. There are definitely new lines to be done!
Getting There
Take the Davis Canyon (like going to the Sixshooters) road into the wash that is the beginning of the actual Davis Canyon. You will be driving on the south side of the South Sixshooter. The Happy Submarine will be directly to the south. We approached it from the road at a random place that seemed to be the closest. The hike is about an hour (a little longer than going to the sixshooters). High clearance is necessary. Also, you are able to drive around the bow of it, skirting Dugout land, to access Lavender Canyon, perhaps this would take you closer?
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